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As described I am selling a new Hondata CTR MAF 500. Only opened to take the pictures in this thread. I am not able to use this with my configuration. Selling it for my cost of $390 shipped. No tax, no shipping cost so less expensive than buying from a performance shop. Interested parties PM me.

The positions should be 0.00mm only when under boost and only needs to display 8.00mm when you first let off the throttle and it recircuilates the air and fuel(not forgetting you have 0.02mm wiggle room). When it is sitting at idle, the position is not important. It only matters with key on...

You will need a thin but stiff cable that can squeeze in where the wires go into the plug.

FP will not give you that info. I don't know about KT. There are 2 ways to get the voltage if KT does not show it. A diagnostic scanner such as Autel Maxisys or connecting a voltmeter to pins 3 and 4 on the wastegate actuator plug. If you go with a scanner, I would get one with bi-directional...

Yep. If you key on engine off you will hear this. The Wastegate for sure.

If it is a slight whine that one might take as the turbo whine, it could be the air bypass solenoid valve. Hard to hear it. In my case the solenoid valve seemed to be stuck slightly open, causing a whistle/drill like noise. Not turbo failure noise, but it basically sounds very similar. Long shot...

I did not catch that. I thought they only had the catless. With access to your Flashpro, connect a laptop and run the FP manager. It may tell you what downpipe you have. It depends on if the creator labeled it so, or if they locked the tune so you cant read it. When you connect the FP to the car...

Actually PRL has 2 downpipes. The first one was catted but not high flow 5" like the current that seems to be out of stock. I just looked one up randomly. The Skunk 2 option might work. 76mm(3"). The O2 sensors seem to be close to stock position. Does yours use both sensors because some do not...

Aftermarket charge pipes are a must, especially on a pre-owned ctr. The OEM are squishy and won't last. You can get away with the stock inlet pipe until you have higher levels of airflow. The PRL inlet does fight heat well so it adds increased airflow potential and lower intake temps. If you...

Most people on here prefer not to use the Hondata basemaps. I see them as a temporary measure. I would have a plan for tuning as some even talk about the basemaps causing issues. My first tune was the Phearable 2.0. That is one good shelf tune. When I first got my PRL race MAF I used a Hondata...

I moved on from the p700 for now. After replacing the air bypass solenoid valve, There was no change to the p700 poor performance. I waited to drive the car, other than testing. Decided to go with the easy way and picked up the MHI stage 2. No need to calibrate the wastegate actuator as it comes...

Where it states to use HDS to clear DTC's, can use Hondata or Ktuner. Troubleshoot guide

I confirmed with DRob, WG only needs to show 0.00 when spooling.

As far as I know of, Hondata does not show the Voltage reading Scarybear06 is referring to. Setting the voltage at 1.3V to get it between 1.26 and 1.42 I believe it should be. You need to either use probe wires to measure the voltage between pins 3 and 4 on the WG actuator plug, or use a...

There seems to be something wrong with every link listed on the page you linked. They all take me to https://www.civicx.com/forum/.

Once you post your code, if you get no answers on it, check out AllData. It is a subscription troubleshooting guide and will be somewhat specific to your make model and sometimes year. I had to select a 2019 as they don't seem to have a '21. There may be free guides out there, but I was tired of...

Finally following up on this. PRL was quick to process an RMA for the P700. I am not sure if the issue with the turbo could have caused the air bypass solenoid to go bad, but I finally got a diagnostics tablet and found it to be bad. After the new P700 was installed, the car felt better but...

I found the part number. 17136-5BF-A00

Pretty sure you want to calibrate to the fully closed position. That should happen at 1.30v from using probe wires with a voltmeter on pins 3 and 4 of the wastegate actuator plug. In order to make the adjustments, you will need the car in key on/engine off mode. Then unplug the wastegate plug...