ACT Clutch + Lightweight Flywheel Unboxing & Review

[LilToTo17]

You know back in the day on Honda tech people would have just shared the knowledge if all your doing is modifying an oem part.

The whole type r retro is modifying an oem part with cmc included. It’s a lot of detailed work that was done in order to fit and function properly. Some others have tried to redo the type r retro but not successfully. Hell the type r retro doesn’t even utilize a pilot bushing as this one dude had his shop make a custom one when Eman explicitly said one was not needed as 100’s of these clutches have been installed with 0 error. I got word that a few select had the clutch over 100k miles and no issues at all.

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[10GenPearlSi]

It’s not he makes them for R’s and Non R’s. They are brand new cmc’s for type r and non that is modified internally to delete the dampener.

FWIW The dampener is in the slave cylinder not the master cylinder.

 

[LilToTo17]

FWIW The dampener is in the slave cylinder not the master cylinder.

Eman's words not mine.

 

[JT Si]

FWIW The dampener is in the slave cylinder not the master cylinder.

That's just not true. There is a damping diaphragm in the master cylinder and a delay valve in the slave cylinder.

Eman's words not mine.

How about you educate yourself so you can make sure to spread the truth and quell misinformation instead of just constantly appealing to authority?

 

[LilToTo17]

That's just not true. There is a damping diaphragm in the master cylinder and a delay valve in the slave cylinder.



How about you educate yourself so you can make sure to spread the truth and quell misinformation instead of just constantly appealing to authority?

Lol you have China made sirimoto cmc don't you? How's that V2 of it since V1 failed you?

 

[Drew36]

Not to revive an old thread or anything but I have since sold the car and the ACT clutch held up for thousands of miles with 0 issues. Highly recommend it.

 

[JT Si]

Not to revive an old thread or anything but I have since sold the car and the ACT clutch held up for thousands of miles with 0 issues. Highly recommend it.

I'm on 10,000 miles with mine with no issues (with the clutch kit directly). Still trying to work out my hydraulic clutch line issues, but it's almost fixed up.

 

[Drew36]

I'm on 10,000 miles with mine with no issues (with the clutch kit directly). Still trying to work out my hydraulic clutch line issues, but it's almost fixed up.

What kind of clutch line issues did you experience? Only thing happened to me sometime is being at redline and trying to shift fast, sometimes it would lock me out.

 

[JT Si]

What kind of clutch line issues did you experience? Only thing happened to me sometime is being at redline and trying to shift fast, sometimes it would lock me out.

It's a whole saga, starting with installing the clutch leaving the OEM line unaltered - I had a weird incident going WOT on a freeway onramp that left my clutch spongy.

I figured it was time to swap in the sirimoto, but it didn't fit adjustment-wise.

I swapped the OEM pushrod onto the Sirimoto, which actually worked remarkably well. (In hindsight, I should have stopped here because it was functionally good, but still experienced some intermittent high RPM lockout.)

I got a revised N1 and swapped it in, but never could get it to work right. Could have been bleeding issues, because I swapped the old one back on and still couldn't get it back to how it was originally.

I gave up and got a KZCMC, which I swapped on. It seemed to bleed super easily, but then I started to have lockout from first gear at a stop. I removed the Sirimoto braided clutch line and reinstalled the OEM hardline (with a PRL braided upgrade).

Still had first gear lockout. Removed the delay valve in the slave cylinder, bled it again.

Still first gear lockout. Bled it some more.

This is where I'm at now, still some resistance into first gear reminiscent of the lockout.

I think I have some trapped air bubbles in the line still, and I think that's what I've been fighting this whole time since I swapped the KZCMC on.

The lockout only happens after it's hot and I sit at a stop for some time, assumingly heatsoaking the clutch line and expanding the bubbles.

I'm bleeding it again next weekend. Seems like my life is fiddling with the clutch line at this point.

 

[Drew36]

It's a whole saga, starting with installing the clutch leaving the OEM line unaltered - I had a weird incident going WOT on a freeway onramp that left my clutch spongy.

I figured it was time to swap in the sirimoto, but it didn't fit adjustment-wise.

I swapped the OEM pushrod onto the Sirimoto, which actually worked remarkably well. (In hindsight, I should have stopped here because it was functionally good, but still experienced some intermittent high RPM lockout.)

I got a revised N1 and swapped it in, but never could get it to work right. Could have been bleeding issues, because I swapped the old one back on and still couldn't get it back to how it was originally.

I gave up and got a KZCMC, which I swapped on. It seemed to bleed super easily, but then I started to have lockout from first gear at a stop. I removed the Sirimoto braided clutch line and reinstalled the OEM hardline (with a PRL braided upgrade).

Still had first gear lockout. Removed the delay valve in the slave cylinder, bled it again.

Still first gear lockout. Bled it some more.

This is where I'm at now, still some resistance into first gear reminiscent of the lockout.

I think I have some trapped air bubbles in the line still, and I think that's what I've been fighting this whole time since I swapped the KZCMC on.

The lockout only happens after it's hot and I sit at a stop for some time, assumingly heatsoaking the clutch line and expanding the bubbles.

I'm bleeding it again next weekend. Seems like my life is fiddling with the clutch line at this point.

I think you may be onto something. It is very important to make sure NO air is in the lines or else you can be chasing the problem for awhile. I would for sure try bleeding a lot out of the lines and make sure the reservoir does not go low while bleeding and see what happens. Wish you the best of luck!

 

[JT Si]

I think you may be onto something. It is very important to make sure NO air is in the lines or else you can be chasing the problem for awhile. I would for sure try bleeding a lot out of the lines and make sure the reservoir does not go low while bleeding and see what happens. Wish you the best of luck!

It's definitely not for a lack of trying or insufficient bleeding - I probably left out 4 or 5 bleedings in the timeline.

It goes to show how difficult it can be to bleed a clutch line.

I've even flipped the slave cylinder upside down and held the piston in to make the bleeder valve the highest point to let the rising air bubbles out.

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