where is the write up for the amp and sub install?

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Can someone post the link to the well written CTR amp and sub install ?

Anyone here suggest how I can neatly mount my remote sub bass gain knob in one of the switch blanks on my car? The specific knob/led light combo I have is an AudioControl ACR1.

I'm staring at the back of the switch blank and scratching my head on how this thing is going to mount in place.
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Full definitive thread here for all speakers, sub, and amp work: https://www.civicx.com/threads/full...s-amp-center-channel-and-door-speakers.27310/

Sub grill kit fneed or better deeper subs here: https://www.civicx.com/threads/ctr-...-grill-kit-now-available-for-pre-order.29013/

For the remote, pull the one piece panel under steering down and back. Clips are on left of panel. Need not to remove entire panel. Pop the blank out and modify it trim the back and drill hole for the remove. Pop blank with knob back in and run wire behind and back along the fuse box down the foot panel...all the way back to the trunk.

Remove 14 mm driver bottom seatbelt mounting bolt to run wire behind door panned. Retorque that bolt at 24 lbs-ft.
 
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Thanks CTRMofo. I am in the midst of finishing up my install but I have to decide how to mount a remote bass gain knob (it is a bit large to fit into the space).

I am trying to decide between an old school but mint Alpine MRV-T757 (circa 2002) from a friend that never used his or a new Rockford punch series amp.

Opinions?

I have the above mentioned Aloine amp in my CRX and I love how much class AB power that thing has. Intend to run my DVC Rockford 8” sub in series so that thebamp sees a 6 ohm load for cleaner power and cooler running amp. Not expecting earth shattering bass but hopefully a significant improvement over what I have now which ain’t much.
 

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Thanks CTRMofo. I am in the midst of finishing up my install but I have to decide how to mount a remote bass gain knob (it is a bit large to fit into the space).

I am trying to decide between an old school but mint Alpine MRV-T757 (circa 2002) from a friend that never used his or a new Rockford punch series amp.

Opinions?

I have the above mentioned Aloine amp in my CRX and I love how much class AB power that thing has. Intend to run my DVC Rockford 8” sub in series so that thebamp sees a 6 ohm load for cleaner power and cooler running amp. Not expecting earth shattering bass but hopefully a significant improvement over what I have now which ain’t much.
How large is the knob? Max diameter should be no more that 3/4” for knob. Have to trim plastic pieces off back of the blank. You can get spare blanks from local dealer for $0.60 each to test or throw away.

Can’t advise on the amps since I was a huge Alpine amp guy for all my custom builds up until 2000. Not familiar with your MRV model. You’d need a remote turn on lead from stock amp located in front passenger footwell if the old amp doesn’t turn on via speaker leave input. New amps now have option of turn on by remote lead or by speaker level input so installs more convenient.

Why wouldn’t you run the sub in parallel and get 2/3 or 1 ohm load for more efficiency vs series for 6 ohms? Can your old amp handle multi loads?

The new Rockford T series BD amps are very good and efficient. I tested 2 of them and ran very cool, efficient power.
 
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How large is the knob? Max diameter should be no more that 3/4” for knob. Have to trim plastic pieces off back of the blank. You can get spare blanks from local dealer for $0.60 each to test or throw away.

Can’t advise on the amps since I was a huge Alpine amp guy for all my custom builds up until 2000. Not familiar with your MRV model. You’d need a remote turn on lead from stock amp located in front passenger footwell if the old amp doesn’t turn on via speaker leave input. New amps now have option of turn on by remote lead or by speaker level input so installs more convenient.

Why wouldn’t you run the sub in parallel and get 2/3 or 1 ohm load for more efficiency vs series for 6 ohms? Can your old amp handle multi loads?

The new Rockford T series BD amps are very good and efficient. I tested 2 of them and ran very cool, efficient power.
My amp is old school where it needs a remote turn on trigger but I am running it from an AudioControl LC2i which does support signal in triggering for amplifiers.

I don't want to run the sub in 2 ohm mode b/c The MRV-T757 has plenty of power and will easily still put down good power figures @ 6ohms. That translates to an amp that draws considerably less current which means less heat in an enclosed trunk space. The added benefit of running an amp with a 6ohm load is that the power is significantly cleaner too vs. that at 2 ohms. The old Alpine amp CAN drive 2ohm mono load EASILY (it was a key selling feature of this amp) but that's maxing out the amps capabilities and it isn't necessary for a little 8" sub (at least I don't think it does). I'm personally NOT a fan of the modern class D amps and I still in the camp of folks that believe class AB amps are sonically better with less switching distortion than a class D amplifier. I haven't been in the car audio scene in a LONG LONG time so my believe of class D amps could be outdated... regardless I can switch the sub's wiring easily between 6 ohms or 2 ohms without much effort anyways.

If my friend decides to not sell me his amp then I'd have to reconsider going to a class D amplifier to keep costs in check as my budget for this install is limited. What are considered decent amps these days? If I go with a mainstream brand it seems like Rockford Fosgate is still a solid amp but names like Alpine and JL are merely an faint echo of their former selves.

As for the bass control know if you take a look at the ACR1 it is a bit of a PITA to install b/c of the width of the PCB that the potentiometer is mounted to. I'll have to sit back and make some better measurements but based on eyeballing the control and the switch blank that it isn't as simple as just drilling a hole and calling it a day. Go figure that I have to deal with a PITA control knob.

Thanks,
 


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ah ok...with lc2i then you're good to go.

well yes and no. yes the older class A/B amps are very good - for higher frequencies. however, class A/B are the least efficient amps of all classes which means they also run much hotter vs class D. today's class D are hi tech and super efficient to the tune of 90% + efficiency which means they run very cool and able to do so in a smaller chassis. that's why you'll find class A/B amps usually in big chassis for all the cooling it needs. yes, crossover distortion virtually nonexistent with class A/B.

take a look at JL's amps which are now ALL class D as well as alpine's class D....super efficient, smaller chassis, and cool running for a reason. they've also gotten much much cleaner across all frequency ranges with low distortion to boot with their super fast digital switching due to demands of high end audio builds people do these days vs. our "old days". there's some variability depending on speaker load with the class D's, but JL for example did a great job of matching their subs with amps for elimination of the variables thus significantly improved sound quality across the frequencies.

therefore, if you stick to your guns on class A/B, i'd say use that amp for the mid to high frequencies speakers (door 6.5 and tweeters) then find a good class D amp like JL JX or XD (running XD600/1v2 here for latest setup) to drive just the sub.

ok googled some pics of the arc1...oh boy that body is big. anyway to remove all the casing and just use the internals and knob? some like rockford gives you option to remove all those unnecessary external parts and can install easily which was what i did with the RF remote before (has blue light). now with the JL HD-RLC remote (just nondescript black knob) it's small enough and same width as the blank so an easy install. i just trimmed off the back of the blank with dremel tool and drilled a hole. couple pics here with RF remote and JL remote.

i chose not to get the lc2i remote since it duplicates the rf or jl remotes, so chose one vs the other and also due to size as you've ran into.

i've also attached the p/n for the blank you can pick up at local honda dealer.

View attachment 123326

Honda Civic 10th gen where is the write up for the amp and sub install? IMG_4370.JPG


Honda Civic 10th gen where is the write up for the amp and sub install? IMG_4392.JPG


Honda Civic 10th gen where is the write up for the amp and sub install? IMG_2156.JPG


Honda Civic 10th gen where is the write up for the amp and sub install? IMG_2154.JPG
 

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stevescivic

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ah ok...with lc2i then you're good to go.

well yes and no. yes the older class A/B amps are very good - for higher frequencies. however, class A/B are the least efficient amps of all classes which means they also run much hotter vs class D. today's class D are hi tech and super efficient to the tune of 90% + efficiency which means they run very cool and able to do so in a smaller chassis. that's why you'll find class A/B amps usually in big chassis for all the cooling it needs. yes, crossover distortion virtually nonexistent with class A/B.

take a look at JL's amps which are now ALL class D as well as alpine's class D....super efficient, smaller chassis, and cool running for a reason. they've also gotten much much cleaner across all frequency ranges with low distortion to boot with their super fast digital switching due to demands of high end audio builds people do these days vs. our "old days". there's some variability depending on speaker load with the class D's, but JL for example did a great job of matching their subs with amps for elimination of the variables thus significantly improved sound quality across the frequencies.

therefore, if you stick to your guns on class A/B, i'd say use that amp for the mid to high frequencies speakers (door 6.5 and tweeters) then find a good class D amp like JL JX or XD (running XD600/1v2 here for latest setup) to drive just the sub.

ok googled some pics of the arc1...oh boy that body is big. anyway to remove all the casing and just use the internals and knob? some like rockford gives you option to remove all those unnecessary external parts and can install easily which was what i did with the RF remote before (has blue light). now with the JL HD-RLC remote (just nondescript black knob) it's small enough and same width as the blank so an easy install. i just trimmed off the back of the blank with dremel tool and drilled a hole. couple pics here with RF remote and JL remote.

i chose not to get the lc2i remote since it duplicates the rf or jl remotes, so chose one vs the other and also due to size as you've ran into.

i've also attached the p/n for the blank you can pick up at local honda dealer.

View attachment 123326

IMG_4370.JPG


IMG_4392.JPG


IMG_2156.JPG


IMG_2154.JPG
Thanks CTRMofo, that is helpful. yes the class AB amps are super super inefficient. Somewhere around 40% for a 6 ohm load so I heard you loud and clear. I will pass on my buddy's amp then and just pick up a Rockford or JL amp. Based on what you wrote are you suggesting I do NOT need a LC2i if say I buy a Rockford Prime series R500XD1 amp?

This one specifically: https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosg...42171804&sr=8-6&keywords=rockford+fosgate+amp. The nice thing with the Rockford amp is that it comes standard with a remote bass knob but that would seem redundant if I have a LC2i with remote bass knob.

Another one I considered was this:

JL JX line: https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=0&productId=10323&sku=JLJX5001D

and lastly:

JL RD 5001: https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=0&productId=35887&sku=RD5001

Trying to keep the amp cost below $300 CAD if possible but that RD 5001 sure looks sexy...

thanks!
 

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Thanks CTRMofo, that is helpful. yes the class AB amps are super super inefficient. Somewhere around 40% for a 6 ohm load so I heard you loud and clear. I will pass on my buddy's amp then and just pick up a Rockford or JL amp. Based on what you wrote are you suggesting I do NOT need a LC2i if say I buy a Rockford Prime series R500XD1 amp?

This one specifically: https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosg...42171804&sr=8-6&keywords=rockford+fosgate+amp. The nice thing with the Rockford amp is that it comes standard with a remote bass knob but that would seem redundant if I have a LC2i with remote bass knob.

Another one I considered was this:

JL JX line: https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=0&productId=10323&sku=JLJX5001D

and lastly:

JL RD 5001: https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=0&productId=35887&sku=RD5001

Trying to keep the amp cost below $300 CAD if possible but that RD 5001 sure looks sexy...

thanks!
yes and no - depending on what your plans are with regards to the door speakers. here's what i discovered in my r&d: 1) if you upgrade ALL 4 doors' speakers and use the stock amp to drive the 11 channels, you will lose sub signal completely, or 2) if you do all but 2 doors (rear for example), you may or may not lose sub signal. the head unit is smart and attenuates the stock sub signal such that you'd lose bass altogether.

once the attenuation happens, you definitely need the lc2i to bring it back to feed your amp then drive your sub. my recommendation is to get the lc2i anyway which is minimal cost ($70-$80 usd) and be future proof. not only that it will give your amp a clean signal to start with.

correct, no need for lc2i optional remote if amp already has one or you get an optional one with the amp. they're redundant because they're bass volume remote control really.

yes jl jx is a very good amp. originally i was going to test the jx series but decided to take up a notch to the xd series without going for broke. both are solid class d designs with difference of couple features and chassis size which was important for my foam tray display design challenge. i went with xd600/1v2 model you see in the main thread. the rd series is right in between and yes sexy all black with blue light. you won't go wrong with any of those listed. also, get the jl remote which is subtle black no light...couple different remotes for different amp models and small so will fit nicely behind the blank. they use simple phone cable with rj11 4p4c wires.
 
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Great tips indeed! I am only merely amping the sun to power the Rockford 8” dvc sub I have. I ended up landing on a rockford prime series 500 watt amp as it was reasonably priced and came with a remote bass control for less than $210 CAD vs JL amps still required me to buy the control for an extra $65.00.

Just as a recap then, I install Rockford amp with my LC2i still for optimal performance and I can tap the signal out from the sub signal?

Out of curiosity why is it that if I were to replace the other speakers that I would lose sub signal? Seems odd that Honda would design a system that would do that.
 

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yes, tap signal from the sub wire on the car/stock amp side of the harness after unplugging the harness from the stock sub.

i've posted about this at length in the full thread. basically, the stock head unit/amp sees different loads and attenuates the bass signal. honda and most mfgers does this to avoid costly warranty replacements if the customer cranks up the volume and blows out the stock paper speakers in the car. it's normal for mfgers to do this to save costs.
 


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Thanks CTRMofo, that is helpful. yes the class AB amps are super super inefficient. Somewhere around 40% for a 6 ohm load so I heard you loud and clear. I will pass on my buddy's amp then and just pick up a Rockford or JL amp. Based on what you wrote are you suggesting I do NOT need a LC2i if say I buy a Rockford Prime series R500XD1 amp?

This one specifically: https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosg...42171804&sr=8-6&keywords=rockford+fosgate+amp. The nice thing with the Rockford amp is that it comes standard with a remote bass knob but that would seem redundant if I have a LC2i with remote bass knob.

Another one I considered was this:

JL JX line: https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=0&productId=10323&sku=JLJX5001D

and lastly:

JL RD 5001: https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=0&productId=35887&sku=RD5001

Trying to keep the amp cost below $300 CAD if possible but that RD 5001 sure looks sexy...

thanks!
I'm looking at the R500 and JX500 as well. Wonder if the R500 remote would fit in the blank panel in the dash. If I go JX500 I may get the remote for the LC2i instead, so more flexible if I change amps in the future I won't have to change the remote.
 

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I'm looking at the R500 and JX500 as well. Wonder if the R500 remote would fit in the blank panel in the dash. If I go JX500 I may get the remote for the LC2i instead, so more flexible if I change amps in the future I won't have to change the remote.
yes the remote for rd and jx will fit. it's a different remote than one for the xd but similar in size.
 
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Thanks CTRMofo. What you have shared is was mostly known by me (from reading past threads) but obviously this thread instills more confidence that it is OK to pull the signal straight from the sub and not have to tap into the front speaker feeds for my sub only upgrade application. Your input as always is immensely appreciated!

@ Bri I would watch out for the LC2i remote bass control... I have the ACR1 (specific for the LC2i) and the only logical way that I can mount the bloody thing is to orient the little tiny printed circuit board turned at at 45 degree angle. CTRMofo and others have demonstrated that mounting either the Rockford Fosgate or JL bass knob is a straightforward near drop in process. The problem with the ACR1 is that the PCB it sits on is too side to be oriented vertically and far too wide to be oriented horizontally. Best way of explaining is draw a rectangular box on a sheet of paper and then draw a diagonal line corner to corner. The box represents the back of the mounting button blank and the diagonal line i how the ACR's printed circuit board sits. It is doable if you're patient enough but in my case I just bought a Rockford amp that comes with a remote bass control so since the RF bass knob mounting requirements is smaller that it is less effort on my part to mount.

Something to think about if you're going to put in a remote bass knob. You need not fear about changing amps and then not having the new knob work with your amp or wiring. As far as I'm aware the RF, JL and LC2i all use the standard RJ-11 phone cord so if you change systems you can easily change knobs.
 

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Thanks CTRMofo. What you have shared is was mostly known by me (from reading past threads) but obviously this thread instills more confidence that it is OK to pull the signal straight from the sub and not have to tap into the front speaker feeds for my sub only upgrade application. Your input as always is immensely appreciated!

@ Bri I would watch out for the LC2i remote bass control... I have the ACR1 (specific for the LC2i) and the only logical way that I can mount the bloody thing is to orient the little tiny printed circuit board turned at at 45 degree angle. CTRMofo and others have demonstrated that mounting either the Rockford Fosgate or JL bass knob is a straightforward near drop in process. The problem with the ACR1 is that the PCB it sits on is too side to be oriented vertically and far too wide to be oriented horizontally. Best way of explaining is draw a rectangular box on a sheet of paper and then draw a diagonal line corner to corner. The box represents the back of the mounting button blank and the diagonal line i how the ACR's printed circuit board sits. It is doable if you're patient enough but in my case I just bought a Rockford amp that comes with a remote bass control so since the RF bass knob mounting requirements is smaller that it is less effort on my part to mount.

Something to think about if you're going to put in a remote bass knob. You need not fear about changing amps and then not having the new knob work with your amp or wiring. As far as I'm aware the RF, JL and LC2i all use the standard RJ-11 phone cord so if you change systems you can easily change knobs.
One clarification - the remote for the RF uses RJ45 and is wider plug that. RJ11/RJ12 plug so not interchangeable with say JL sub. Even though both do same function, you just can’t plug RF remote into JL amp since the connector won’t fit at the amp and vv ;-)
 
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One clarification - the remote for the RF uses RJ45 and is wider plug that. RJ11/RJ12 plug so not interchangeable with say JL sub. Even though both do same function, you just can’t plug RF remote into JL amp since the connector won’t fit at the amp and vv ;-)
Whoa good catch! My bad. Sorry for misinformation. Why can’t all these audio makers use a common standard!

That’s means I have to run a new cable for my rockford amp after I just spend a good part of my afternoon wrapping all my wires in split loom to give it the factory look.

I guess I will have to use my ACR1 after all..
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