What Oil Grade are/will you Using?

[Civics4Ever]

Did my 1st change at 7500 mi. 30%. 2nd change at 12,500 mi. It was either 40 or 50%. Now at 15,878 mi. I can smell the fuel in the oil. Level has increased about 1/8 inch past the top dot. I think it would be safe to use a higher viscosity oil. I am going to stick with 0-20 and maybe try other brands. Currently using Mobil 1 synthetic.

Edit: The oil does start to get noticably dark at around 4,000 mi.

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[parshisa]

 

[un hombre]

I believe its a combination of:

1) higher speed limits (or no speed limits in Germany) - so engines may run hotter which would thin out the oil more.
2) availability - 0w20 is not found in every auto shop and dealer like in the US (remember when it was tough to find here?). So customers may not even have the choice and automakers have to provide available options.
3) EPA/CAFE - in the US, the car does not meat CAFE (for the stated mpg) if the owners manual specifies anything but 0w20. In Europe they don't have this, so Honda will allow an additional range of oils

Bingo, although 0w-20 should basically be available in most places that stock oil in Europe - availability is not a problem as it used to be.

Remember, eco oils mean eco driving, so low engine revs, low car speeds - driving according to the green colour of your dash LED... My goodness, it asks me to put on a 6th gear at 50 mph on 5th gear...
If it hadn't been for oil dilution, I would have gladly used highest quality 0w-20 oil myself - I know those are low friction engines even tested for 0w-16 oils... I chose 0w-30 only because I know it will thin out with fuel and my spirited driving to something close to 0w-20 spec - and this is the extra protection I am talking about, in this case.

 

[parshisa]

Bingo, although 0w-20 should basically be available in most places that stock oil in Europe - availability is not a problem as it used to be.

Remember, eco oils mean eco driving, so low engine revs, low car speeds - driving according to the green colour of your dash LED... My goodness, it asks me to put on a 6th gear at 50 mph on 5th gear...
If it hadn't been for oil dilution, I would have gladly used highest quality 0w-20 oil myself - I know those are low friction engines even tested for 0w-16 oils... I chose 0w-30 only because I know it will thin out with fuel and my spirited driving to something close to 0w-20 spec - and this is the extra protection I am talking about, in this case.

Well, I can gladly report that a little over 4,000miles and oil level is still at the same level it was right after the oil change. Oil has no gas odor to it either. Looks a bit darker but no as dark as factory fill at this milage. And definitely not as watery...
I'm hesitant to make any statements or suggestions at this point. I'll wait till 5k (which should happen early august) and will change the oil (plan to fill it up with the same Amsoil SS0W20). Sample scheduled to be sent to the lab.....and then.....LET THE TREAD COME TO LIFE AGAIN!!!!!!

 

[un hombre]

Well, I can gladly report that a little over 4,000miles and oil level is still at the same level it was right after the oil change. Oil has no gas odor to it either. Looks a bit darker but no as dark as factory fill at this milage. And definitely not as watery...
I'm hesitant to make any statements or suggestions at this point. I'll wait till 5k (which should happen early august) and will change the oil (plan to fill it up with the same Amsoil SS0W20). Sample scheduled to be sent to the lab.....and then.....LET THE TREAD COME TO LIFE AGAIN!!!!!!

I will tell you straight away (Mark my words ) that the results from the lab will say:

- Oil diluted, possibly above 5%, reduced viscosity and possibly flashpoint
- Rest of the oil parameters should be normal.

I just found out an oil analysis lab in Ireland - maybe I will try it out and see what they show.
Otherwise, I will be forced to send oil for analysis to USA and the post and package might be a bit problematic and expensive - not sure if worth the hassle...

I will be probably changing my oil before Autumn/Winter at this rate....

 

[Prozento]

I wanted to pop this topic up to hear a fresh 2019 opinions about the best oil for our car (in hot environment especially)

 

[Nessism]

I wanted to pop this topic up to hear a fresh 2019 opinions about the best oil for our car (in hot environment especially)

0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30 would all be fine. The engine is water cooled which maintains the oil temperature at a consistent level when running so the main variable to consider is the cold start temperature. As far as 0W vs.5W for cold starting, it won't matter much unless it's freezing or below.

 

[Prozento]

0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30 would all be fine. The engine is water cooled which maintains the oil temperature at a consistent level when running so the main variable to consider is the cold start temperature. As far as 0W vs.5W for cold starting, it won't matter much unless it's freezing or below.

My main problem is the opposite. Winter temperatures mostly never go down from 5C and summer temperatures can go up to 40 and even more sometimes (average summer temperature is 30-35). Will 0w-20 still be enough to protect my engine even if I will occasionally take it to the track once a year and drive a little aggressive sometimes on the road?

 

[DKL]

Will 0w-20 still be enough to protect my engine even if I will occasionally take it to the track once a year and drive a little aggressive sometimes on the road?

Run 5w30 synthetic and don't worry about it. I've run it in ME, and had fantastic used oil analysis results in the L15B and K20C1.

 

[Nessism]

At the recommendation of someone earlier in this thread I found that 540 Rat oil blog. Dude's a bit wacky but there is some good info there. I bought some Quaker State Ultimate Durability based on the decent recommendations (not to mention the $20/5 quart price on Walmart.) Got 5W-30 but going to look for some 0W-20 too. Not sure if Rats recommendations hold much water but I can't imagine it hurting. And NO, I'm buying Amsoil even if it's rated higher. Too expensive.

 

[Design]

Here's my latest readout after running Mobile 1 EP. Even on a 23 PSI map, a decent 0W-20 semi-synthetic seems more than adequate for this motor.

https://www.civicx.com/threads/designs-long-term-ownership-thread-2017-si.15247/#post-725506


The only readouts returning slightly elevated wear metals and/or lower viscosity have involved the base Honda semi-synth 0W-20. And even those haven't really been all that bad.

My take is that modern oils can handle the increased fuel content we've been seeing in modern TCDI powertrains - especially the 1.5T. In all but a few fringe cases, it seems the maintenance minder intervenes long before rising levels and/or lower viscosity become an issue.

 

[Prozento]

After some research I ended choosing from these oils:
Helix Ultra Professional AF 5W-30
Mobil Super X1 3000 FE Formula 5W-30
Liqui Moly Special Tec F 5W-30 or Special Tec V 0W-30
Motul Eco-lite 8100 5W-30 or Eco-lite 8100 0W-30
Honda OEM 0W-20 Oil

*Unfortunately in my country the only 0W-20 I can use(Warranty), and for now it seems like the only one I can get anyway is the OEM 0W-20.
So to conclude, between all these oils if my car is tuned and my driving style is 80% light-20% aggressive I should still stick with the OEM? or should give a try to some good 5W-30/0W-30?

Thanks all for replies again!

 

[fitter_here]

I've been using synthetic 0W30, or 5W30 for the last four years, depending what's on sale at Walmart.

 

[The Vyzitor]

I'm running Valvoline Modern Engine 5w30.

I chose this oil and grade due to it being on the thin side for a 30 grade. Kinematic viscosity of 9.8 cSt @ 100*C, just marginally thicker than a stout 20 grade like Redline (9.1 cSt) but fully conforms to DEXOS 1 Gen 2, ILSAC GF5, API SN Plus, etc etc. Overall just had a well rounded set of certifications and specs that I liked.

 

[c1vic]

Mobil 1 EP 0w20 since the first oil change.

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