What did you do to your Type R today?

[ExVTEC]

receive calibration, flash calibration, datalog few minutes of normal driving and a 3rd gear WOT pull. send datalog, receive new calibration and repeat.

Thanks, got a link?

Sponsored

 

[boosted180sx]

Thanks, got a link?

hardest part is finding a flat stretch of road where you can do a 2k-7k 3rd gear pull.

Drob did my etune.
https://www.imwtuned.com/store/p4/etune.html

you can also email him if you have any question regarding the process. He responds fairly quick.

 

[RepyT]

hardest part is finding a flat stretch of road where you can do a 2k-7k 3rd gear pull.

Drob did my etune.
https://www.imwtuned.com/store/p4/etune.html

you can also email him if you have any question regarding the process. He responds fairly quick.

Guys, cool feature but not sure it’ll help with the speeding ticket in court.

Your honor, I was simply going 85 mph WOT in 3rd to calibrate my vehicle to receive a real time performance update.

At least you don’t have to do the WOT in reverse. Observers would say, See, I told you it was a toy car, they’re winding it up so it can go fast again.

 

[tinyman392]

Guys, cool feature but not sure it’ll help with the speeding ticket in court.

Your honor, I was simply going 85 mph WOT in 3rd to calibrate my vehicle to receive a real time performance update.

At least you don’t have to do the WOT in reverse. Observers would say, See, I told you it was a toy car, they’re winding it up so it can go fast again.

Places to do that legally are far and few. I just assume that he did these pulls in a close course with professional drivers, do not attempt at home

 

[boosted180sx]

it was in mexico of course.

 

[DRKSYD]

Being a Floridian, that’s one heck of a snorkel you got there, looks barracuda proof.

Got it on this morning in the ~35 degree garage. Took about an hour and a half, including putting the oil cap and battery tie down on. Crappy pic, I was in a hurry.

@PRL Motorsports

 

[ExVTEC]

Any installation tips? I hear the bottom bolt on the elbow is a PITA.

Got it on this morning in the ~35 degree garage. Took about an hour and a half, including putting the oil cap and battery tie down on. Crappy pic, I was in a hurry.

@PRL Motorsports

 

[DRKSYD]

Any installation tips? I hear the bottom bolt on the elbow is a PITA.

I do have some, thanks for asking!

1. Live in Wisconsin so any cuts on your hands are healed by cold air almost immediately.
2. I just bought a nice Masterforce (Menards), set of sockets. You need the extension and elbows at times to make thing easier.Technically, one elbow, a ~6" extension, and 10/12mm sockets will work. I have a ton of tools but wanted a nice "complete" set of sockets.
3. Get some tape and ideally one of those flexible shaft tools that pick up parts you lose in areas. (I have one for gettings cat toys out from under crap the cats find it funny to watch me retrieve)

The 10mm bolts were on tight so use some force, they come off.
I unplugged the one connector it states too and moved the small rubber hose off the clips as it states too. The harness and hose are still annoying to work around but you can do it.
Put a socket on your 6" extension first and get it on to the lower 12mm bolt. Once on, get the wrench on it. Mine came off without a ton of force...but with force?

Top one is easy. I backed the lower bolt all the way out and once I knew it was free of threads, used the pick up tool to snake down and grab it.
Once everything is out, install is easier. Get the elbow on the turbo with gasket, loosely thread top bolt in. Get your same 6 inch extension with the socket (No wrench yet), and put the bolt in it. Tape the bolt to the socket with ~1" of tape, something that will break or not jam the bolt up. e.g. simple scotch tape or packaging clear tape. Don't go crazy, just enough to hold the bolt on to guide it in.

Screw lower bolt on by hand, then tighten top and bottom up.

We all know the HV intake silicone hose is a PITA to move around. Keep all clamps loose when reinstalling. The instructions state to put the 5 10mm bolts back in but not tight, I would suggest not putting any of them in when reconnecting the intake. After the inlet pipe is connected to the outlet side's silicone hose, connect the inlet side's hose to the HV intake(MAF) first, then use the slack on the inlet pipe to get the final section joined.

Install last 5 bolts. It was a good time to check all other connections, bolts, clean things up, look for racoons etc.
It was fairly easy, nothing broke? Would be easier in warmer weather with better lighting. I have a nice LED garage light but car was too far forward this morning to help a ton. Flashlight made it a little easier. Need to load my eTune on to the K-Tuner and data log today...it's going to be a balmy ~40 degrees.

 

[RepyT]

Any installation tips? I hear the bottom bolt on the elbow is a PITA.

Yes, tips good, -35 bad.

Still weighing the performance gain of one or both pipes as either can void warranty if you’re having eng issues. I know Honda has to prove the mod caused the problem and breathing better & more airflow is generally good, unles the malfunction had to do with too much power.

Am I the only one concerned with not risking warranty impact? Sure seems that way and I’ve heard things like what are chances, they can’t prove the mod did it. They could share data on rate of failure stock and perhaps combine a motivator that mod contributed if fails normally are near nil.

My views are a good tune and as few bolt ins as possible to achieve desired performance vs doing front & downpipe, Intercooler, intake box and maybe lots of other popular mods, then see what you get. Is one at a time a bad idea? Sure makes the $ aspect easier. I see lots of people with great skills installing their own. I’m not sure if I have more than 2/5 star mechanical skills, and life is busy enough. All that means I’m Mr. Hire-it vs Mr. Fix-it, increasing mod costs to $85-$115/hr plus the parts.

Wheels & tires are a little easier as you can order mounted and balanced or pay locally. Hardest part of that decision is what to get & spend. I haven’t seen one combo in 18 or 19 inch that doesn’t change geometry to keep speedo error less than 1 mph or change scrub in a low to single digit number as most combos I find change axis and therefore scrub 17-25mm and push tires out wheel wells that far into the air curtain.

I’m not Speedracer nor do I have plans to track much but am thrilled with steering geometry stock today and am worried tire upgrades will change it, maybe add a little torque steer or change cornering squat and push feel, for better or worse. That’s the hard part before spending $5k or more, what will it do diff, better, worserererer?

Final concern is that locally, speed shop does a variety but specializes in Subies. They don’t necessarily have the experience and R knowledge but certainly have the ability I see exchanged here. My tune process was proven before they did my car so I was cool being first based on knowledge and experience. Nobody enjoys paying mechanics (or seeing doctors) that say I’ve never seen or done this before but some things are just timesavers, not risks. That has to do with our zip code and big Florida most think of is 6-8 hours drive away.

 

[DRKSYD]

Yes, tips good, -35 bad.

Still weighing the performance gain of one or both pipes as either can void warranty if you’re having eng issues. I know Honda has to prove the mod caused the problem and breathing better & more airflow is generally good, unles the malfunction had to do with too much power.

Am I the only one concerned with not risking warranty impact? Sure seems that way and I’ve heard things like what are chances, they can’t prove the mod did it. They could share data on rate of failure stock and perhaps combine a motivator that mod contributed if fails normally are near nil.

My views are a good tune and as few bolt ins as possible to achieve desired performance vs doing front & downpipe, Intercooler, intake box and maybe lots of other popular mods, then see what you get. Is one at a time a bad idea? Sure makes the $ aspect easier. I see lots of people with great skills installing their own. I’m not sure if I have more than 2/5 star mechanical skills, and life is busy enough. All that means I’m Mr. Hire-it vs Mr. Fix-it, increasing mod costs to $85-$115/hr plus the parts.

Wheels & tires are a little easier as you can order mounted and balanced or pay locally. Hardest part of that decision is what to get & spend. I haven’t seen one combo in 18 or 19 inch that doesn’t change geometry to keep speedo error less than 1 mph or change scrub in a low to single digit number as most combos I find change axis and therefore scrub 17-25mm and push tires out wheel wells that far into the air curtain.

I’m not Speedracer nor do I have plans to track much but am thrilled with steering geometry stock today and am worried tire upgrades will change it, maybe add a little torque steer or change cornering squat and push feel, for better or worse. That’s the hard part before spending $5k or more, what will it do diff, better, worserererer?

Final concern is that locally, speed shop does a variety but specializes in Subies. They don’t necessarily have the experience and R knowledge but certainly have the ability I see exchanged here. My tune process was proven before they did my car so I was cool being first based on knowledge and experience. Nobody enjoys paying mechanics (or seeing doctors) that say I’ve never seen or done this before but some things are just timesavers, not risks. That has to do with our zip code and big Florida most think of is 6-8 hours drive away.

Thanks, but confused on "my tune process was proven ...."

You're tuned but concerned about the inlet pipe or mods in general? You state a "few bolt ons", but then say those, vs a DP, FMIC, intake box. What would your idea of "bolts on be"? Most the bolt on stuff has review, and people with good/bad reviews, I wouldn't tune your car if you are concerned about any of those you listed.Your tune will outright void the warranty if a dealer was so picky to blame a part caused it.


If you are tuned right, a bigger intake system, exhaust system, should only help your car breath vs stock.

 

[RepyT]

Thanks, but confused on "my tune process was proven ...."

You're tuned but concerned about the inlet pipe or mods in general? You state a "few bolt ons", but then say those, vs a DP, FMIC, intake box. What would your idea of "bolts on be"? Most the bolt on stuff has review, and people with good/bad reviews, I wouldn't tune your car if you are concerned about any of those you listed.Your tune will outright void the warranty if a dealer was so picky to blame a part caused it.


If you are tuned right, a bigger intake system, exhaust system, should only help your car breath vs stock.

DRKSYD,
I know this sounds odd but I’m in a unique situation with a proven tune but it’s an upcoming release of a complete piggyback system that doesn’t touch or talk to the ECU like Hondata or K-Tune so I am not truly voiding the warranty. All the processing and safety features in an OEM vehicle are intact in mine. An external brain decides how to further adjust settings to improve performance to save fuel and provide more power. Traditional tunes like you said impact warranty, this product should not being piggybacked. At the very least, it doesn’t have the same risks as ECU tunes.

That’s why I’m being conservative, yet numbers achieved match what I might get using H or K versions.

Im learning still but it appears any airflow intake or exhaust part prior to the catalytic converters could impact warranty.

Since I’m happy where I’m at power wise, dyno’d extensively, I don’t see the need nor immediate benefit to front and downpipe changes. Same theory as exhaust, more diameter, more unrestricted flow.

My idea of bolt ins are increased capacity Intercooler, larger turbo, bigger front and down pipes, fancy air intakes make of CF vs plastic when the OEM seems fine. I don’t see advertised or even forum documentation that shows the benefit of several brand intakes. i look at each one as what will it do and is there synergy if you do the entire pathway (inlet, front, down pipes. There are many variables like what else do you have, what do you see benefits most next?

I can’t answer that accurately, part of my problem.

Here in NWFL it’s darn hot six months of the year. My R would benefit from increased cooling like a K’rad double core radiator I think the Mishimoto firewall aux radiator is not as effective and reroutes headscoot plenum air to it vs helping assist with overall engine bay airflow. Could that make some things hotter? I like the super-size radiator concept better and that’ll probably be my next mod. There are also better cooling fans available as I spend a significant amount of time in low airflow tourist traffic.

I’m interested in what people say mod benefits are but even more if they show dyno before/after. I don’t see pipe changes or Intercooler reviews approached that way. That doesn’t discredit what may truly help performance but surely makes it harder what to put limited resources on.

Thank you for your response and expertise. I’m an old fart in a savvy younger generation candy store. I feel like I’m pointing at things I’m clueless about and so many here know exactly how to install it blindfolded. This is a very educational place to hang out and exchange thoughts, kid around some and learn serious aspects too.

 

[DRKSYD]

DRKSYD,
I know this sounds odd but I’m in a unique situation with a proven tune but it’s an upcoming release of a complete piggyback system that doesn’t touch or talk to the ECU like Hondata or K-Tune so I am not truly voiding the warranty. All the processing and safety features in an OEM vehicle are intact in mine. An external brain decides how to further adjust settings to improve performance to save fuel and provide more power. Traditional tunes like you said impact warranty, this product should not being piggybacked. At the very least, it doesn’t have the same risks as ECU tunes.

That’s why I’m being conservative, yet numbers achieved match what I might get using H or K versions.

Im learning still but it appears any airflow intake or exhaust part prior to the catalytic converters could impact warranty.

Since I’m happy where I’m at power wise, dyno’d extensively, I don’t see the need nor immediate benefit to front and downpipe changes. Same theory as exhaust, more diameter, more unrestricted flow.

My idea of bolt ins are increased capacity Intercooler, larger turbo, bigger front and down pipes, fancy air intakes make of CF vs plastic when the OEM seems fine. I don’t see advertised or even forum documentation that shows the benefit of several brand intakes. i look at each one as what will it do and is there synergy if you do the entire pathway (inlet, front, down pipes. There are many variables like what else do you have, what do you see benefits most next?

I can’t answer that accurately, part of my problem.

Here in NWFL it’s darn hot six months of the year. My R would benefit from increased cooling like a K’rad double core radiator I think the Mishimoto firewall aux radiator is not as effective and reroutes headscoot plenum air to it vs helping assist with overall engine bay airflow. Could that make some things hotter? I like the super-size radiator concept better and that’ll probably be my next mod. There are also better cooling fans available as I spend a significant amount of time in low airflow tourist traffic.

I’m interested in what people say mod benefits are but even more if they show dyno before/after. I don’t see pipe changes or Intercooler reviews approached that way. That doesn’t discredit what may truly help performance but surely makes it harder what to put limited resources on.

Thank you for your response and expertise. I’m an old fart in a savvy younger generation candy store. I feel like I’m pointing at things I’m clueless about and so many here know exactly how to install it blindfolded. This is a very educational place to hang out and exchange thoughts, kid around some and learn serious aspects too.

Not a fan of piggy back units. You can't tune right and they will likely be more prone to causing issues. To each his own.

 

[frtorres87]

Ceramic coated the new badges

 

[123sillyboy123]

Tomorrow.

I got it done too

 

[RepyT]

Ceramic coated the new badges

Mr ‘87,
Are yours from Brad at Aero Spec Racing?

I have set from there on order to match a hood scoop they’re building too.

Sponsored