Weight reduction for the FK8

.grimace

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I think the point is to maximize your cars performance without driving a gutted out rattle trap. If you can knock off 2-300lbs (10%) of the cars weight while adding more power you're going to have a fun street car and quick HPDE and track car. I only get to track mine 4-5 times a year so a gutted, caged race mobile is a waste.
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Ih8cars

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What is the point of lightweighting the car unless you plan to track it.

If you are looking for HP for 1/4 mike, then purchase a Mustang GT.

Serious weight savings means stripping this car down to nothing, but isn’t it cheaper to buy a cheap shell, add an engine, race seat, and suspension parts?
Weight reduction improves literally every single aspect of the car. If manufacturers would stop this horsepower war and instead focus on making cars lighter, maybe they’d be able to meet the more stringent fuel economy standards as well as producing a generally better vehicle dynamically.
 

remc86007

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Weight reduction improves literally every single aspect of the car. If manufacturers would stop this horsepower war and instead focus on making cars lighter, maybe they’d be able to meet the more stringent fuel economy standards as well as producing a generally better vehicle dynamically.
I agree, I wish manufacturers would focus on weight reduction. My 2600lb CR-Z was super fun to drive at its limit. The reason they don't focus on weight for EPA standards is it only marginally improves the city rating and does nothing for the highway rating.
 

Pzb

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I agree, I wish manufacturers would focus on weight reduction. My 2600lb CR-Z was super fun to drive at its limit. The reason they don't focus on weight for EPA standards is it only marginally improves the city rating and does nothing for the highway rating.
Weight reduction is a high priority as long as it meets specific targets to actually sell the vehicle. Cost is still number one. Reengineered light weight parts are expensive to develop and manufacture.

For example: Aluminum vs steel- carbon fiber vs plastic.

You can always remove parts.
 
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Vaders CTR

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Braille Battery Installed:

Factory Battery 33.4 lbs
Braille Battery (2317R) 16.8 lbs

Battery Link
Battery Hold Down Link

Weight savings of 16.6 lbs

Sorry for those that read the "What did you do to your Type R" thread. Duplicate post!

Honda Civic 10th gen Weight reduction for the FK8 Braille Battery and Tie Down.JPG


Honda Civic 10th gen Weight reduction for the FK8 Universal Tie Down from Braille.JPG
 
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remc86007

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I love the idea of the lighter battery, but I worry that my really short commute (during which I have to blast the AC) may result in me getting stranded.
 

.grimace

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Yea I am very curious to hear your thoughts longterm. I have the odyssey pc680 in my 2000 Civic and it’s been holding up great except when we went to Europe or 3 weeks. Came back and it was dead, jumped it and still works just fine though.
 

Vaders CTR

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I have been using this XS Power D545 for months with zero issues.
I saw you posted this a while back, but at the time I already had the Braille battery and it didn't make sense to get another battery. Another great option and setup though!

@JLOracing I looked into the tie down you used too. After checking possible mounting locations, I didn't think it would work with mine since the batteries are different dimensions. I had to figure out another route. Braille universal was my first guess and choice. I'm glad it worked out.
 

willimo

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Serious weight savings means stripping this car down to nothing, but isn’t it cheaper to buy a cheap shell, add an engine, race seat, and suspension parts?
Nope! (I mean, it could be, but between all the issues of a project and refining the correct setup, I'd rather have Honda or someone spend the zillion RnD dollars, and just throw stuff away)

Yea I am very curious to hear your thoughts longterm. I have the odyssey pc680 in my 2000 Civic and it’s been holding up great except when we went to Europe or 3 weeks. Came back and it was dead, jumped it and still works just fine though.
When my factory battery goes to the big lead recycling plant in the sky, I'll go to a PC680. I've been running a PC680 for probably ten years, in two cars, both 11:1+ compression ratio 1.8ls, and it never gave me an issue so I'm glad to put it in this car. Also, in this conversation, weight savings is only a part of it. A battery like the PC680 (or the Braille equivalent) is just exactly the right size to be mounted on it's side in the spare tire well. Or, if your racing league allows it, under the passenger seat for those of us who like hamburgers a lot. I won't be going this route since I am carrying a compact spare, but if I were serious I would probably go this route, even if it requires a good 3-4 pounds of wire to make it work.

Also, get a trickle charger. It's not super necessary but it's useful for when your car sits for a while and will improve its life.
 


Vaders CTR

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It shouldn't be a problem. Just check to see based on where you live the operating temps for the battery (I am more concerned about the cold weather). The battery offers more cold cranking amps versus the factory as well as less weight and size. The downsize to a smaller battery is it will require a battery tender if the car isn't driven enough to maintain a charge. Braille recommends a battery tender if the car sits at least two weeks. Cars have so much electronics that they continue to use some of the battery even when they sit for a period of time.

Enjoy the car!
 

CWCTR2018

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It shouldn't be a problem. Just check to see based on where you live the operating temps for the battery (I am more concerned about the cold weather). The battery offers more cold cranking amps versus the factory as well as less weight and size. The downsize to a smaller battery is it will require a battery tender if the car isn't driven enough to maintain a charge. Braille recommends a battery tender if the car sits at least two weeks. Cars have so much electronics that they continue to use some of the battery even when they sit for a period of time.

Enjoy the car!
Doesnt the new batteries have some sort of tech that will not die if let sitting for long periods, it has something to do with the ECU and new cars? I am pretty stupid when it comes to this subject
 

Vaders CTR

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Doesnt the new batteries have some sort of tech that will not die if let sitting for long periods, it has something to do with the ECU and new cars? I am pretty stupid when it comes to this subject
As far as I know, they do not have the ability to prevent the battery from being depleted. Over time, the battery charge will weaken over time especially with all the electronics and computers modern cars have onboard. It will happen much quicker.
 

CTR Junkie

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Due to weight I never understood why they put on a rear wiper (motor, wiper, arm, electric cables, hose for fluid).
The wiper is just a sand/dust collector which will make marks on window when used anyway.
I took my rear wiper off within a week of getting my new car. Saved about 4 or 5 lbs and looks a lot better without it!
 

shadow

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I'm going to throw this into the battery mix. Shorai LiFePO4, 5 pounds only.

https://www.shoraidirect.com/en/p130-lfx36-l-polarity-case-type-3

I get mine from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Shorai-LFX36...535334346&sr=8-1&keywords=shorai+lfx36l3-bs12

A few of us in the STI community use it and no problems reported. However, if you will leave the car for over a week, I recommend disconnecting the battery or putting it on a maintenance charge. I've discharged and damaged my first battery by leaving the car over a week. The parasitic drain was quite high due to an electronic aftermarket gauge.

Please consider that the STI has a 2.5L engine with an 8.2 CR while the CTR has a 2.0L engine with 9.8 CR. I think that it is a non issue.
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