Turbo-DP Stud Problems

ThorSellsCars

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While installing the new Downpipe, We had to back one of the studs out as it stripped when trying to put the nut back on. This apparently has been an issue before, thankfully this one backed out and didnt snap. Has anyone had this happen It was the Stud that connects the downpipe and turbo on the side closest to the engine, will post pics.
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Not having done it myself but I’ve heard of the turbo studs snapping pretty easily. I’m having my DP installed with my clutch and they said they do everything in their power not to snap them, but it happens sometimes. And the mechanic I’m using has done tons of 10th gen downpipes.
 

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While installing the new Downpipe, We had to back one of the studs out as it stripped when trying to put the nut back on. This apparently has been an issue before, thankfully this one backed out and didnt snap. Has anyone had this happen It was the Stud that connects the downpipe and turbo on the side closest to the engine, will post pics.
Going to have to jam 2 nuts and pull or drill it out lol. I've been there twice and drilling seems to work but pain in the ass and lots of broken drill bits.
 

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Exactly why my downpipe is being installed with my clutch
 

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I've done 5 downpipe install on 10th gen, three broke and two were intact. One of the one that broke was mine sadly.. Same bolt broke on every car it seems.
 


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There’s a theory they are just putting them on too tight from factory and with the heat soak issues that’s a direct side effect it seems. We pulled it out but had to rethread the hole on the turbo... nerve racking
 

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There’s a theory they are just putting them on too tight from factory and with the heat soak issues that’s a direct side effect it seems. We pulled it out but had to rethread the hole on the turbo... nerve racking
How did you remove the studs? Also what threat tap size did you use?
 
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ThorSellsCars

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How did you remove the studs? Also what threat tap size did you use?
We didn’t mean to remove it the nut got stuck on the stud when it went to break away, so while I wrenched it off, my buddy held pressure in the middle so it wouldn’t torque and snap. And the thread tap size idk one of our master techs came over and did it for us but I will ask
 

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There’s a theory they are just putting them on too tight from factory and with the heat soak issues that’s a direct side effect it seems. We pulled it out but had to rethread the hole on the turbo... nerve racking
I don't think it's a Civic issue but an all-turbo-cars downpipe issue. It's just how it is when you heat cycle hardware.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bro...roid-motorola&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Google broken downpipe stud and you'll find Subaru, BMW, VW an RX7 forum among others on the first page. It's actually a very normal thing to battle on a turbo swap.

Heat soak is more of a issue with the intake path, including intercooler getting warm and a power loss occuring from it. I don't think it'd have much bearing on EGTs making the turbo and it's hardware go from ambient to balls-hot again and again. That's just going to happen.

Good on you for getting it off w/o actually breaking it.
 
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ThorSellsCars

ThorSellsCars

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I don't think it's a Civic issue but an all-turbo-cars downpipe issue. It's just how it is when you heat cycle hardware.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bro...roid-motorola&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Google broken downpipe stud and you'll find Subaru, BMW, VW an RX7 forum among others on the first page. It's actually a very normal thing to battle on a turbo swap.

Heat soak is more of a issue with the intake path, including intercooler getting warm and a power loss occuring from it. I don't think it'd have much bearing on EGTs making the turbo and it's hardware go from ambient to balls-hot again and again. That's just going to happen.

Good on you for getting it off w/o actually breaking it.
Oh good info Ill have to keep that in mind when i do the work on the Si next year.
 


Brettmx721

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Having the same issue. Anyone know a part number for those studs? Or what studs will work for replacing broken ones.
 

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Only thing that has worked for me so far is to use deep creep the night before.
 

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would heating that section with a torch help since it'll expand a bit?
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