Things I've Noticed About this Car

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NonyaBisness

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Interesting though, I don't tend to get too many drops where I moved to.
Yeah, I mean it wouldn't be an issue if my daily drive was on the highway, but my drive takes me out to the middle of nowhere basically and lots of tree coverage, the Previous Owner still had XM/Sirius active when I bought the car and I did test it and got the same kinds of drops in the same locations that I did with the older cars, I had hoped that somehow the OEM Sat Antenna design worked better then the little slim one Pioneer supplies when you get an XM Unit from them but no luck, same dead spots.

Pandora has it's own issues, I subscribe to a legal Streaming TV service called Philo (which is a great Cable Alternative if you don't care about sports or news and just want crap like Discovery, Motortrend, DIY Network, AMC, History, HGTV and stuff like that, basically all the channels owned by Discovery Networks, Viacom, Hallmark and whomever it is that owns AMC, History and A&E networks all for $20 a month) and they did a promo where they gave all their subscribers 3 months of Pandora last year for free so thats when I started with Pandora, then I upgraded the radio in my truck to a double din touchscreen so I could do the Pandora controls directly on the radio and all was well and good for a while then Pandora went and screwed something up, let me preface this by saying I rarely use Android Auto, the default Pandora tab in both my Civic and in my truck won't auto play Pandora when I get in the car, I have to jump through all kinds of hoops if I'm even lucky enough to get it to play without having to just use the Bluetooth tab instead of the Pandora tab, but you have to have the latest version for it to show up as a music source in Android Auto, ultimately the ONLY method I could come up with to fix this issue of connection issues and playback not starting in the normal interface was to download an old version, but the only old versions I can find that work with the radios are the cracked versions, so since Pandora refuses to acknowledge the issue exists they don't get my money and I don't get their ads, I would happily pay for the service so I can get the premium features, but if they won't fix it so it just works when I get in the car then I won't pay them.
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gtman

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Apparently either I was wrong about the remote start HVAC or there is some kind of temperature override once it gets close enough to freezing temperatures because despite having everything set how I have described (which worked all week last week) I went out to the car tonight (with temps just above freezing) and the thing was blasting air at full fan speed while in remote start mode.
When you remote start the car it automatically turns the HVAC system on to try to achieve 72° using heat or A/C. I don't think you can override that programming.

https://www.hondatechtutor.com/civi...d-convenience/how-to-use-remote-engine-start/
 
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NonyaBisness

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I believe when you remote start the car it automatically turns the HVAC system on to try to achieve 72° using heat or A/C. I don't think you can override that programming.
Since it started getting cold I started using the Remote Start and i played with all the different configurations, up until last night the configuration I posted in the first post had worked like half a dozen times or more and successfully prevented the unit from running at all until last night when it was about 35 degrees out.
 

Mae22

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repeet,

I noticed in your previous vehicles you had a 72 Triumph GT6. I had a 71, harvest gold. I loved that car and drove it into the ground. I've been sorta looking around lately hoping to sneak one past my wife into the garage but decent one's are a FORTUNE now damnit!

I also had a '71 Spitfire and a '74 Spitfire and a '69 TR6, bought them all used because I wanted a sports car but was poor. As I recall I spent $1200 for the GT6, $1400 for the '71 Spitty and $1600 for the '74 Spitty which had a factory hardtop too. I bought the '69 TR6 for $1800 and did a frame off restoration on it that took 2 years. My wife wanted a new house 20 years so it went bye bye, sold it for $28,000 to a guy from Sweden.
I had '76 and '77 Spitfires...the '76 when I was in high school in the late 80's, and the '77 later in life as my "play" car. The '76 was my fave, since it had the chrome bumpers, and the '77 was the new body style with the black rubber bumpers, but either way they are a joy to drive.

I sold the '77 when I started dating a guy and wanted to make room for his vehicle in the garage...boy was that a mistake. In hindsight, I definitely should have kept the car and ditched the guy. :)

My dream now, as my late-40's self, is a '59 Austin Healy Bug Eyed Sprite in BRG. SOMEDAY.......
 
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NonyaBisness

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i have noticed that my car speeds up when i push the accelerator pedal,

i noticed my car slows when i push the brake pedal,

i also noticed my lights come on when i turn the knob for them
come on man, lets not go all troll response, we as a site need to be better then to troll just to troll.

I'm talking about the unique quarks of this car (every car has them), like trying to figure out the exact way of controlling the damn heater so it doesn't run full blast when in remote start mode making the car take longer to heat up. or like how on the US Spec you can roll the windows down with the remote but have to use the key in the door to roll them up, not basic things that apply to every car ever made.
 


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The fuel door panel. If you have the key fob outside the car while you're refueling, the lock will engage not only your doors but also the fuel door panel. If you try to close it, the panel won't click back in place. But if you push in door once or twice and hold it, the panel will click close. Didn't learn that until my second 10th gen. haha
I get out of the car with the fob in my pocket & fill up the gas tank. When done I just push the filler door once to close it. Neither it nor the doors ever lock.
 

BriteBlue

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Since it started getting cold I started using the Remote Start and i played with all the different configurations, up until last night the configuration I posted in the first post had worked like half a dozen times or more and successfully prevented the unit from running at all until last night when it was about 35 degrees out.
If it's too cold outside the heat comes on & if it's too hot outside the AC comes on. There has to be some preset temperature settings that determine when these events happen but I can't find anything in the Owners Guide or Manual. For example with my other car if it 40° or colder the heat & heated seats come on. Maybe when you tried the different configurations the outside temperature was just above the temperature needed to activate the heater.
 

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If it's too cold outside the heat comes on & if it's too hot outside the AC comes on. There has to be some preset temperature settings that determine when these events happen but I can't find anything in the Owners Guide or Manual. For example with my other car if it 40° or colder the heat & heated seats come on. Maybe when you tried the different configurations the outside temperature was just above the temperature needed to activate the heater.
Everything I've read online says below 40*F turns on the heater/defrosters, and above 70*F turns on the A/C. Granted, I haven't seen any official text backing up that info. But it's almost always below 40 this time of year here, and mine has turned on my heater/defrosters every time so far. Haven't had my Civic in the summer yet to verify the A/C.
 

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I get out of the car with the fob in my pocket & fill up the gas tank. When done I just push the filler door once to close it. Neither it nor the doors ever lock.
Maybe your auto lock is disabled? I dunno.
 
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NonyaBisness

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I get out of the car with the fob in my pocket & fill up the gas tank. When done I just push the filler door once to close it. Neither it nor the doors ever lock.
do you have the Auto Walk Away Lock enabled so that you don't have to manually engage the alarm? There are settings for this buried in the headunit menu's.
 


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NonyaBisness

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From everything I've read it's very straightforward. Use remote start and the hvac system auto runs while attempting to get interior temps to 72 degrees. If it happens to be 72 degrees in the car I imagine the hvac won't run.
it's definitely not that simple, because all last week I managed to make it not run the fan when the temps where in like the 40's and stuff. if it was designed to do that the fan should be going everytime and me playing with the controls shouldn't have any effect, yet it did and did repeatedly and predictably until the 35-36 degree night in which the fan was blasting at it's highest speed.
 

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It's a computer program logic. It could be simple, but it also can be arbitrarily complex and hard to figure out. There may be multiple temperature thresholds and multiple rates of heating/cooling dependent on temperatures inside and/or outside.
The program can also have a time goal. If it sees that despite heating the temperature inside doesn't rise fast enough, it will keep increasing the fan speed. Actually, it only should do that after the engine warms up a bit. If the engine takes long to warm up, it might finally turn on the heating full blast on, to meet the preset time goal.
 
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BriteBlue

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Maybe your auto lock is disabled? I dunno.
Never thought about it but that's probably it. Almost seems like it's more trouble than it's worth if the car gets locked when you go to fill up with gas. Guess I'm just used to pushing a button to lock a car.
 

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I always wondered about that, because I have the Autolock thing engaged, so I've always just kept the driver door open while filling up since it won't try to arm while a door is open.
It's not the biggest deal. If it locks while your fuelling just grab the door handle before you shut it and it unlocks. I do it every day.
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