The Shadow Type R Build

  1. TheShadow

    TheShadow Senior Member

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    I'm looking to find a way to document my Type R build and thought this forum would be one of the best places to track everything. It will likely be a slower and less fancy build than some others (sadly no NSX wheels are going on this Type R) but I'm proud to be a CTR owner and want to share my experience either way. This will likely be an "every-mans Type R build" or a budget friendly / family oriented build. I also apologize in advance if not all of my pictures are calendar worthy - most are taken quickly and on my phone.

    So to start with - I picked up Type R #00561, Championship White from my local Honda shop in July or so of 2017. Paid a little over sticker, but not much - a worthy price to pay to not have to travel for this gem and to get the only unit that was coming to my town (it is now May 2018 when I'm writing this and I still have yet to see another CTR in my neck of the woods.)IMG_0810.JPG IMG_0820.JPG

    There she was right off of the lot. Behind her was my old stallion, a 2012 Si - not a bad car, but she didn't hold a candle here.

    Fast forward a few months, and my fist mod happened - hence this being a family mans build. Officially installed the car seat base for my first child. Even managed to get a red car seat to semi match the interior.


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    The next item on the list was a set of winter tires. I was a little upset at needing an additional set right off the bat, but understand based on the benefits of having better summer tires. I also wanted a winter set since I didn't expect my winter car to last the season (spoiler alert, it didn't.)22627461_10212805171358404_1381033757_n.jpg

    I didn't want to spend a ton on winter tires since they would just be there to get me through the season. I know several people have used the Titan rims, and they look damn good, but I went a little cheaper and found a set of Motegi MR116 18" rims with Michelin X-Ice tires. Nothing terribly fancy, and hey - the red pin striping matched well.IMG_4705.JPG IMG_5331.JPG IMG_5332.JPG

    Actually just pulled that set off 1 week ago (lovely weather my area has had this year so far.) Stock rims are back on. I also don't have any intention on changing those stock rims - I know the ride may be a little rough, and I have to take care not to damage the larger rim, but I waited for over 20 years for a Type R - I'm displaying that damn red Honda badge everywhere.

    And those are my mods for the past 9 months (slow and steady like I mentioned.) Things will pick up though, Mishimoto oil catch can is on the way along with clear JDM side markers and some LED lights from Type R LEDs. I also plan to get into the exhaust, intake and inter cooler updates, with Hondata down the road and some various visual enhancements. I will keep everything posted here though, and would love any comments anyone might have.
     
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  2. OP
    TheShadow

    TheShadow Senior Member

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    Finally got enough parts in the mail to do one of the upgrades I am more excited for - clear side markers and the start of the LED lights. I received the OEM clear side markers earlier this week and was able to get them installed quickly last night. Like everyone else mentioned it is a tight fit getting them in, not much slack in the wire harness. The only other issue I ran into was there appeared to be some sheet metal behind the light mount that was interfering with the harness and making it difficult to fully install - I ended up unplugging the harness from the light socket, popping the side marker in and then reaching around the back to plug in the harness. Only other mention is to make sure the LED is installed the correct way with a quick light check before reassembling - I initially installed the passenger side backwards but was able to quickly fix while it was all apart!


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    I have the LED rear turn signals and reverseX lights from TypeRLEDs, just waiting on the brake lights so I only have to do the work once in the rear taillights.

    In other news my Mishimoto catch can finally arrived as well, I know what my weekend project is!
     
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  3. TypeRLEDs

    TypeRLEDs #1 Source for 10thgen LEDs
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    Love it !
     
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  4. OP
    TheShadow

    TheShadow Senior Member

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    #4 TheShadow, May 13, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2019
    The weather was crappy yesterday, but it was a perfect opportunity to get the next piece onto the CTR: my Mishimoto catch can. Install went very smooth, biggest hang ups were getting the old hose out (very snug on the fittings) and the clamps for the return hose seemed a little small and barely wanted to slip into place. All in all very happy though, and glad to have the extra layer of protection on!

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  5. stevescivic

    stevescivic Senior Member

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    For the baby car seat is it actually allowed to have the baby seat sit on top of the plastic cup holders in the back?

    I thought that the baby seat had to be where a passenger would sit.
     
  6. Blindeye_03

    Blindeye_03 Senior Member

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    The middle is the safest spot :)
     
  7. OP
    TheShadow

    TheShadow Senior Member

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    Agreed - I use the anchors behind / underneath the seats to secure it. As long as the base is secured tightly and the level is correct, I feel the middle is the safest as well. But different car seats may be different or have other recommendations.
     
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  8. OP
    TheShadow

    TheShadow Senior Member

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    I finally got in the brake LED lights from TypeRLEDs to complete the rear tail light set! Installed them this afternoon, and I have to say how good the quality is on these bulbs. They feel and look amazing. It is an understatement to say they are bright, these things must be able to be spotted from miles away.

    Install was honestly the easiest thing I’ve ever done. Especially after doing the side marker swap, this was cake. Took maybe 10 minutes to do, and that included me taking pictures and walking to the drivers seat to turn on the bulbs and check them.

    The taillights come out easy - just two screws under the hatch, then some light pressure towards the side of the car to undo two pop clips. Brake and turn signal lights go in just like the OEM ones, and the LEDX reverse light sits in the housing right with a grommet right ahead of the heat sink with the original bulb socket hanging behind on the pig tail from the LED.

    Very happy and pleased with these lights! Turn signals and reverse lights are much brother than stock. Brake lights are the most similar in brightness, but the LEDs are definitely brigter, and I do like the color better.

    All photos below show LED lights on the right and stock on the left. I got as much of the car in the shots as possible, but I was backed all the way against my garage door so these were the best I could get. As an added bonus, the shipping containers from the LED bulbs can easily be used to house and store the stock bulbs for storage.


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  9. bwsteg

    bwsteg Senior Member

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    Read your manual to see if Honda recommends using the child seat anchors like that. You’re suppose to use them directly behind the driver or passenger seat. Not necessarily 1 of each. However some manufactures do allow it but with guidelines as far as spacing/distance.
     
  10. OP
    TheShadow

    TheShadow Senior Member

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    You are correct in that the manual recommends using either the left or right seat, but does not state utilizing the anchors as I have done is in poor judgement. The important part is to ensure the car seat does not move when anchored (mine doesn’t) and make sure the base is at the required level (mine is.) As mentioned before the safest place for a car seat is in the middle of a car, and that is where I have been using mine. I see no reason why using the left or right seat would be better than where I have mine installed.
     
  11. OP
    TheShadow

    TheShadow Senior Member

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    #11 TheShadow, Jul 30, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2018
    It's been a long time since updating my build thread - and I have quite the haul to update about.

    First was a simple mod (although not exactly quick to install), Acuity shift bushings. Actually swapping the parts wasn't terribly hard but removing the components to get to them was a little tedious. Parts felt very well made, but can't say I noticed a large difference here by themselves.

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    I also managed to score one of the Mishimoto intakes. I know several people have been waiting for awhile, and I waited too - but I also opted to purchase right from the company so I feel my wait was minimized. This mod I am very happy with. Love the increased turbo sounds - any time boost is positive you will get either a sucking air sound or the whoosh when you let off throttle.

    One downside here though (not related to Mishimoto or their products) was that after installing this mod I was one of the lucky few to require the engine harness recall. No big deal I thought, I warned the dealership I had installed the intake. Nothing happened to the intake, but the Mishi kit has you re-route the MAF sensor harness. You remove it from the factory casing that clips to that air box, wrap in wire conduit and zip tie against some other wiring running behind the radiator. Well, when I got the car back the factory MAF sensor routing and harness housing was there again - just lazily resting on top of the Mishimoto air box. So not a huge deal, but now I will have to put it back the way it is intended to be.

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    And the last update for this go around was the RV6 Performance catted downpipe. I opted for the silver ceramic coating to help mitigate temperatures, and man - this is one gorgeous part. Welds are top notch and it just shines. really a shame to bury it underneath heat shields, but I wanted to retain the shields since the downpipe had the mounting points for them. I do get slightly faster turbo spool with this and the sound of the car has increased slightly. Really starting to like how the car sounds now with these few mods. And for those of you who are interested the downpipe is roughly the size and weight of a 4 month baby.

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    I also had my first autocross experience the day after installing the downpipe. Not a great photo below, but I had a blast. Managed to get first in my class (which consisted of only myself) but my times were only about 2 seconds behind some of the best times of the day. I think it gave a good starting point of what to expect so I can start shaving time off at the next event I attend. Down side here - I rolled the front right tire and officially chewed up one of my rims... Might be in the market for some smaller rims after all. Price to pay for having fun I guess.

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    Hasport rear motor mount (62a) durometer is on the way, otherwise I think I will be waiting to see what parts other companies are coming out with. I am interested in an intercooler and Hondata, but those may be a ways down the road.
     
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  12. OP
    TheShadow

    TheShadow Senior Member

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    Small update this time around:

    First I installed the Hasport motor mount (62a) about 900 miles ago. Initially there was a lot of extra vibration through all RPM ranges but this does die down. I would say 60% of the NVH is gone in the first week, and another 20% goes away in the coming few hundred miles. You do also get used to it but at this point the only thing I really notice is some extra vibration around 1000 RPM - especially when letting the car idle up a slope in 1st gear. Otherwise normal driving is fine, don't really notice the difference.
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    On the performance side it does help with wheel hop. Is it eliminated? No. But considering I just wanted some firmer takeoffs it is a noticeable improvement over stock. Sadly I forgot to get a photo of the mount installed in the car... Instillation is straightforward - pull off the belly pan shield, pull the old mount out and slide the new one in. A few tips for anyone doing the install: the new mount is a tight fit on the rear side, use some lightly soapy water to help guide it in place. Also jack up the car far enough or use a lift - swinging a rubber mallet can also help get the mount in place and you need the area to swing. Otherwise Hasport does have a nice YouTube install video.

    Second mod easily added 20 horsepower - new carbon fiber badges. Like several others my front badge ended up getting a rock chip so I reached out to the fine gentleman at AeroSpec Racing and put in an order for new badges. The wait is almost unbearable, but he makes them himself from scratch and this man puts out some quality work. Well worth the wait. Easily one of my favorite external mods so far.
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    Still saving up for Hondata and waiting to see how a few cooling mods turn out (eyeing the Mishi intercooler kit, or opting for the PRL intercooler with HKS piping.) Also interested in the oil coolers that are starting to hit the market. More to come.
     
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  13. elusiveaura

    elusiveaura Senior Member

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    Did you get any CEL codes on the rv6 downpipe and any issues with getting bolts out?

     
  14. farmboy

    farmboy New Member

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    Those badges are too sweet.
     
  15. OP
    TheShadow

    TheShadow Senior Member

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    All my bolts came right out. Like the guides on here say take your time - use lots of penetrating lubricant and smooth even pressure with a breaker bar.

    So since I installed the RV6 downpipe over 1000 miles ago I did get a CEL once about 200 miles ago, but I think it was something other than the downpipe. The message was the typical emissions system / rev match combo. No decrease in power, wouldn't have known anything was wrong if it hadn't dinged at me. Dealership blamed it on some funky fuel that caused the upstream O2 sensor to basically have a hiccup. No idea. But they cleared it, and it hasn't been back since. I had just recently done the harness swap so that may have played into the code as well. And they say it was the upstream that did it, but that portion is nearly identical between RV6 and stock. Long story short I don't think it was caused by the downpipe.
     
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