The Oil Thread

[tacthecat]

Penzoil Full Synthetic Oil is thee best imho.... Good enough for Formula 1 and Nascar? Good enough for me.


*runs for cover*

Lets see: F1 engines are changed several times a weekend and never go 250 miles without a rebuild; NASCAR makes you use the same engine for the entire weekend (up to 700 miles) or you have to go to the back of the pack.
Based on that info, I'm not sure I'd trust my lawnmower to Pennzoil.
(and I wonder why there are so many Mobil 1 decals on the Sprint Cup Cars!)

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[kirkhilles]

I've been putting Mobil 1 in both my other cars, but look - I do it for ME and it how it makes ME feel. I'm not driving 200 mph and I'm not driving in the desert or drifting or doing whatever. I trust the people who developed the car to have sufficiently engineered and tested scenarios to know what is required for long life. If they say that any 0w-20 is satisfactory and oil filters can be changed every other change with a super-low-quality Fram made filter, then I have to trust that.

How often do you really hear about engine failure related to the quality of oil? I mean, its not like they have some "Top Tier Oil" certification or something like that. When there are failures related to oil that occur more than once in a blue moon, its due to poor engine design and often means that you're looking at failure even if you change your oil every 1,000 miles.

Do what makes you happy. I'd bet that 80%+ of all cars get scrapped (at least those within the past 20 years or so) with their original engines still working. Its all of the other crap that fails (like our Idle Controller on our i30) like transmissions and other problems that are the death of the vehicle.

 

[1WickedCivic]

Penzoil Full Synthetic Oil is thee best imho.... Good enough for Formula 1 and Nascar? Good enough for me.

Penzoil is *one* of the best and even then, it depends on the specific Penzoil oil. For FI Honda engine, people have been getting good results with the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil. For NA Honda engine, you can use any name-brand synth-bend/full synth oil & get good results. I'll probably use Mobil 1 full synth on my 2nd oil change onwards, as I've gotten excellent results with it on other cars, it's cheaper than Penzoil & widely available. I'm more concerned about the oil filter & will be using the Honda Filtech OEM (A01) filter rather than the current paper iteration by Fram (A02) - each oil change will be a full oil & filter change, as Honda's recommendation in this case is more of a cost-cutting measure than a logical one.

 

[Wyborowa]

Lets see: F1 engines are changed several times a weekend and never go 250 miles without a rebuild; NASCAR makes you use the same engine for the entire weekend (up to 700 miles) or you have to go to the back of the pack.
Based on that info, I'm not sure I'd trust my lawnmower to Pennzoil.
(and I wonder why there are so many Mobil 1 decals on the Sprint Cup Cars!)

Penzoil is *one* of the best and even then, it depends on the specific Penzoil oil. For FI Honda engine, people have been getting good results with the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil. For NA Honda engine, you can use any name-brand synth-bend/full synth oil & get good results. I'll probably use Mobil 1 full synth on my 2nd oil change onwards, as I've gotten excellent results with it on other cars, it's cheaper than Penzoil & widely available. I'm more concerned about the oil filter & will be using the Honda Filtech OEM (A01) filter rather than the current paper iteration by Fram (A02) - each oil change will be a full oil & filter change, as Honda's recommendation in this case is more of a cost-cutting measure than a logical one.

:-D
I agree. I'm 29 and been driving since 16. Always used Penzoil in my 1996 Civic 4dr LX 5sp, 2001 Toyota Corolla SE 4 dr auto, 2008 Civic LX 2dr 5 spd, and now 2016 civic coupe LX 6spd.

I remember when I used High mileage Penzoil when synthetic wasn;t widely available and was VERY pricey. I'll be using purolator Pure one filter Synthetic oil filter.

 

[kirkhilles]

I'm sure there are countless stories of people with vehicles that have 300k+ miles on them that used the cheapest oil available. Just saying

 

[Design]

I'm sure there are countless stories of people with vehicles that have 300k+ miles on them that used the cheapest oil available. Just saying

I don't disagree. Honda motors are built for the lowest common denominator. And this thread was created to prove that point (or not).

However, the 1.5 is a huge change in direction. Nearly every manufacturer that has released a direct injection turbo motor has had reports of long term carbon buildup on the intake valves, egr, and/or oil control rings at some point. And while I believe Honda has done their homework, the only way we'll know for sure is through repeated observation. That's why UOAs are going to be critical in our understanding of things like sheer rate, metal content, and fuel dilution. Things that over time can help identify premature wear or sludge accumulation.

No one here is advocating paying a huge premium for name brand oil. We just want something that works with the results to back it up. And thanks to some early UOA contributions, and a history of what works in other DI turbo platforms, we have a rough idea already.

 

[Civics4Ever]

I've never used synthetic oil. Does it contain detergents in it?

 

[CE1_nobling]

I've never used synthetic oil. Does it contain detergents in it?

Yes... almost all (unless specified/labeled as non detergent) current engine oils, contain some form of detergent agents in them.

 

[Slickone]

Some implied the 0W-20 is new, but Honda has been using it for several years.
http://www.noln.net/article/july-2011/synthetics-set-take-over

 

[dick w]

Some implied the 0W-20 is new, but Honda has been using it for several years.
http://www.noln.net/article/july-2011/synthetics-set-take-over

Some brands/labels were relatively slower than others to offer a 0W-20 weight product. I think that's what people are saying.

 

[David Harper]

"Honda motors are built for the lowest common denominator"??? really? Did you just make that up?
What is your authoritative source for that?
The 2016 civic engines are two of the most advanced on the road in terms of design, engineering, and manufacturing techniques. Read the automotive press reviews.

 

[Design]

I think you misinterpreted the context lol. That was in reference to the maintenance minders vs. traditional OCIs (among other things).

 

[Design]

Cross-posted from another thread. A reminder not to change the factory fill early. And confirmed by a couple folks from Torrance that this recommendation remains unchanged.

Several reasons why, all captured here:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2820526

 

[Slickone]

Cross-posted from another thread. A reminder not to change the factory fill early. And confirmed by a couple folks from Torrance that this recommendation remains unchanged.

Several reasons why, all captured here:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2820526

That's from 2012.
It's been talked about on here that Honda might not use special factory fill oil anymore, since they used to state to not change it early, but no longer state that.
http://www.civicx.com/threads/factory-oil.3569/

 

[Design]

That's true, and they have never used a proprietary blend. But molybdenum is reported to aid in seating of the rings and suspension of particulates from the assembly process. It's used in very specific amounts during assembly and mixes with the factory fill upon first startup. And I'm willing to bet it will continue to show up on any UOA on the factory fill. This is why Honda wants their motors to run through their first full cycle prior to changing out the moly-rich oil.

Our two local dealers here won't change the factory fill until the MM reaches 15% or less. Confirmed by Torrance, keep it until the MM says otherwise. I'm waiting to hear back from Ohio. But I don't think anything has changed from the last decade.

I'm going to ask our local master tech here how they handled the snap ring issue. I do know some dealers carry oil with a moly additive for early life service issues. Others drain and re-add the original. I'll add anything else I can find out.

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