Lust
Senior Member
- First Name
- Michael
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2018
- Threads
- 16
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- 1,411
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- 1,777
- Location
- Bay Area
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 Champ White Type R
You’ll need to watch Jacks video as to why we are adjusting the clutch pedal. The factory specs aren’t ideal in this case. Honda has been known to release bad torque specs on certain parts. This isn’t any different. When you make the clutch grab point closer to the floor, you create less throw out bearing travel which can create clutch drag. This is where the clutch feels like it disengaged but it didn’t do it fully.I measured my Clutch Pedal Free Play to be ~12mm which is about the middle of the range of 4.32–17.63mm (Step 9b). Didn't remove the clutch pedal assembly to get the exact measurement of the CMC push rod (Step 11). Not sure how to remove it or if this even something I should be doing myself?
Can you confirm that your document is for the FK8 Type R?
I understand you're a proponent of making this adjustment. I'm just approaching it from the angle that until I know that my clutch adjustment is out of spec, I prefer not to mess with this sort of thing. For one, I don't like the idea of a higher engagement point when I'm bringing up the clutch. If anything, I wish the clutch pedal stroke was shorter and engaged closer to the floor.
And I still don't fully subscribe to the idea that my grinds are because of a user/clutch timing issue. If all this adjustment is doing is disengaging the clutch sooner, then those times where I know the clutch has hit the floor and I add an extra pause before shifting, I'd expect to at least be getting consistently smoother shifts. But I don't. How and where I position my hand on the shift knob even greatly affect the smoothness of the shifts. And I can't get second gear to grind when I purposely shift fast. It's all so puzzling.
That said, as long as I'm able to mark the original position of the rod and get back to how things are currently, I'm open to trying it. I admit that I won't know if things change for the better until I give it a try. You mention moving the CSC by hand to ensure that the CMC rod hasn't been over-tightened. Do you have a photo of where I can find it? Does it need to be accessed from under the car?
By increasing pedal stroke and preload, we are maximizing overall fluid travel which will make sure the throw out bearing travel far enough to fully disengage the clutch quickly.
The CSC can be accessed from the engine compartment or from the bottom. You might need to remove the intake.
At the end of the day, by doing this adjustment, you will increase the life of your clutch and synchros when done properly
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