Surprise Limp Mode Activation at WOT?

[10GenPearlSi]

Switched over to K tune basemap- but will be looking at the 27won base map. Thanks for the insight

I have seen that some of the people on the net have said that you shouldn't go WOT with a Ktuner basemap with the 27Won turbo. I don't know why that would be. Maybe you found out.

Here is an example of what I have seen on the net about the 27Won and Ktuner basemap. Lucky for you Ktuner now has a basemap for the 27Won.

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[LilToTo17]

I have seen that some of the people on the net have said that you shouldn't go WOT with a Ktuner basemap with the 27Won turbo. I don't know why that would be. Maybe you found out.

Here is an example of what I have seen on the net about the 27Won and Ktuner basemap. Lucky for you Ktuner now has a basemap for the 27Won.

It's because of the AFR's not tuned properly and can be dangerous for your rods and what not.

 

[ACUITY]

Hey All! Chris linked me to this thread, and I wanted to chime in.

So we have now had 3 instances of guys depressing the accelerator past its internal limit in positions A and B. If you watch the throttle % reading on the dashboard while depressing the accelerator, you'll see that you hit 100% throttle input long before the pedal bottoms out. The pedal goes about 1" or so past "100%" throttle input before reaching its electrical input limit. It isn't until you hit the end of this additional 1" that you can potentially trigger a CEL (which can be cleared by pulling the negative battery cable for several minutes). Also note that it takes a bit of effort, so it's not light throttle input that will trigger the CEL. In position C, the pedal is close enough to the OEM pedal stop (remember C puts the pedal furthest from the driver) that the code will not be thrown as the pedal will bottom out on the OEM hard stop under the carpet. The possibility of throwing the code is an unfortunate side effect of bring the accelerator pedal closer to the driver, and quite honestly, it's not something we realized could even be done until very recently. If you have encountered this issue or fear it happening due to your driving style, we welcome you to contact us for the intermediate solution we have which are adhesive-backed rubber bumpers. Chris didn't have much success with them, but we have had positive results with our shop vehicle and one other car that encountered the same issue. The bumpers just require some care to prep for adhesion and to get the adhesive to hold. They also don't handle lateral load very well, but this improves as the bond strengthens over the first few days, or especially with a little warmth. That said, even though we've only seen a few instances of issues out of so many units sold, we do like to address issues like this. We will be looking into a better long-term solution in the last few months of this year, and I hope to have that figured out early 2019. If you have our spacer and are interested in getting the long-term solution when it's available, we'll be providing them at no cost with proof of purchase of a pedal spacer, you may just be responsible for shipping costs.

Please reach out to us via the contact us page on our site if you're in need of the rubber bumper short-term solution.

~Russ

 

[Phylanx]

I have the Throttle Pedal Relo Bracket from Acutiy in Position B. It's been on the car for maybe 9 months or so. I don't go WOT too often so haven't had this happen to me, but am interested in the long term solution for sure.

 

[teders]

Young man, you should probably be using the Ktuner's W1 basemap instead of Vit's tune if you still do.

whats wrong with Vits tune?

 

[10GenPearlSi]

whats wrong with Vits tune?

Vit's tune is absolutely wonderful! He had written that he used Vit's tune. He upgraded to the 27Won W1 turbo. Vit's tune was done for the stock turbo. He needed to use the tune for his turbo.

 

[teders]

Vit's tune is absolutely wonderful! He had written that he used Vit's tune. He upgraded to the 27Won W1 turbo. Vit's tune was done for the stock turbo. He needed to use the tune for his turbo.

ahh gotcha

 

[ApexEight]

Hey All! Chris linked me to this thread, and I wanted to chime in.

So we have now had 3 instances of guys depressing the accelerator past its internal limit in positions A and B. If you watch the throttle % reading on the dashboard while depressing the accelerator, you'll see that you hit 100% throttle input long before the pedal bottoms out. The pedal goes about 1" or so past "100%" throttle input before reaching its electrical input limit. It isn't until you hit the end of this additional 1" that you can potentially trigger a CEL (which can be cleared by pulling the negative battery cable for several minutes). Also note that it takes a bit of effort, so it's not light throttle input that will trigger the CEL. In position C, the pedal is close enough to the OEM pedal stop (remember C puts the pedal furthest from the driver) that the code will not be thrown as the pedal will bottom out on the OEM hard stop under the carpet. The possibility of throwing the code is an unfortunate side effect of bring the accelerator pedal closer to the driver, and quite honestly, it's not something we realized could even be done until very recently. If you have encountered this issue or fear it happening due to your driving style, we welcome you to contact us for the intermediate solution we have which are adhesive-backed rubber bumpers. Chris didn't have much success with them, but we have had positive results with our shop vehicle and one other car that encountered the same issue. The bumpers just require some care to prep for adhesion and to get the adhesive to hold. They also don't handle lateral load very well, but this improves as the bond strengthens over the first few days, or especially with a little warmth. That said, even though we've only seen a few instances of issues out of so many units sold, we do like to address issues like this. We will be looking into a better long-term solution in the last few months of this year, and I hope to have that figured out early 2019. If you have our spacer and are interested in getting the long-term solution when it's available, we'll be providing them at no cost with proof of purchase of a pedal spacer, you may just be responsible for shipping costs.

Please reach out to us via the contact us page on our site if you're in need of the rubber bumper short-term solution.

~Russ

Bump from the dead but is there now a permanent fix and is this problem still not a thing for position C even when not using any floor mats (like you would on track)? Thanks

 

[077]

Bump from the dead but is there now a permanent fix and is this problem still not a thing for position C even when not using any floor mats (like you would on track)? Thanks

I have used position C on the track for several years with no problem after a revised rubber bumper and adhesive from Acuity. I assume that is what comes with the product now.
As an aside I just switched to position B and get better heel-toe control. And I have learned to be smoother on the throttle.

 

[ApexEight]

I have used position C on the track for several years with no problem after a revised rubber bumper and adhesive from Acuity. I assume that is what comes with the product now.
As an aside I just switched to position B and get better heel-toe control. And I have learned to be smoother on the throttle.

Thanks for the reply. @ACUITY I bought my pedal spacer second hand but it did not come with a rubber bumper nor adhesive - can I get these?

And interesting, maybe I'll try position B - all it does is move the pedal a little up compared to position C, right? I have noticed that I sometimes use the middle of my foot to modulate the throttle in position C, instead of the ball of my foot, so maybe that will help. No issues with heel-toe though.

 

[ACUITY]

Thanks for the reply. @ACUITY I bought my pedal spacer second hand but it did not come with a rubber bumper nor adhesive - can I get these?

And interesting, maybe I'll try position B - all it does is move the pedal a little up compared to position C, right? I have noticed that I sometimes use the middle of my foot to modulate the throttle in position C, instead of the ball of my foot, so maybe that will help. No issues with heel-toe though.

Reach out to us via the contact us form on our website asking for the rubber bumper kit for 1919 and mention my name (russ). I still have a few of these bumper kits available. We'll charge for parts and shipping, but it won't be much.

 

[st4xor]

+1 for position B

Also there are probably some opportunities for DIY pedal stops, should someone happen to find this thread after ACUITY runs out of their remaining stop stock. There is a little bit of discussion in this other thread

 

[ApexEight]

Moved from position C to B yesterday, and wow, what a difference. The throttle somehow seems more sensitive which makes the car feel faster, or at least more eager. Probably just need to recalibrate my right foot muscle memory, but I like it. No issues making tiny inputs/adjustments. And as mentioned, 100% throttle comes in well before the pedal stops. No CEL so far. Heel toe is still good. Acuity is actually local to me so I'm going to set up some time to go grab a stopper kit.

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