Si Stock airbox modified for cold air.

10GenPearlSi

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If wrapping the intake helps this much , then you could imagine how great it would be if you would tackle the problem at the source : The turbo.
So a turbo blanket or coating would help a Lot along with some heat reflecting foil on the intake or replacing the intake with a aluminium piece.
Also if anyone is wondering...Dull or oxidised aluminium reflects heat far less then polished aluminium does.So some bling under the hood does help :D

Taken from Zircotec.com

Infra-Red Reflectivity (>600nm) | Better than 98%
Aluminium Reflectivity (For Comparison) | 90 – 95%
Oxidised Aluminium Reflectivity (For Comparison) | ∼60%

ZircoFlex® GOLD is highly reflective of infra-red radiation with results better than 98% reflectivity recorded at >600nm.
Provides excellent thermal protection from radiant heat.
Turbos do create a lot of heat. However, the biggest heat issue in my Si is running the A/C. It fills the engine compartment with a lot of hot air. For EPA mpg the bottom of the engine compartment has some skid plates that hold the hot air inside the compartment.
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odinist

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@odinist thanks for sharing this info. Can you tell me more about what's going on in this picture? https://www.civicx.com/attachments/...dh2mm7yelqbws5x4mg6a-w1312-h984-no-jpg.93776/

Is that area that you blocked off with the duct tape where the unmodified intake draws air in the from the resonator? What did you use the foam blocks for?
It is where the air comes in stock, though I want to clarify that the stock box doesn't draw from the resonator. The top of the airbox has a snorkel where it draws in air, which then routes from the top of the box, around the back side, and then it feeds into the bottom of the airbox. I blocked it off both at the top where it draws air, and then inside at the bottom where the air would feed into. The foam was probably unnecessary since the duct tape is there, but I'd done it just to be certain that no air was being drawn in from the stock inputs.

The resonator is just another plastic box under the airbox, and there's a minimal opening between the two. Essentially (with the stock setup) as air is going into the airbox, the small opening between the airbox and the resonator allows the air to pulse in a manner which makes it more quiet.
 

10GenPearlSi

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The foam was probably unnecessary since the duct tape is there, but I'd done it just to be certain that no air was being drawn in from the stock inputs.
Since the bottom has a large 3 inch duct, I figured there wouldn't be much pulling of air though the stock input. I leave that input open. I did try to block the stock input with a large snug chunk of fiber fill to see what you were doing. Even though the fiber fill was a snug fit, and it had the duct to draw air from, the fiber fill was sucked into the airbox at redline. I was surprised that there was that much vacuum still left at the stock input. I do leave it open so at redline the engine can get as much air as it can. A little warm air mixed in may be better than no extra air. I think it also gives me hydro lock protection.
 

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I think the way I'd do it is like this:

1) Remove the resonator and plug the small opening on the bottom of the box for it.
2) Do the mod @odinist came up with: drilling a hole for a hose connector and then routing the flexible hose into the fender well. Maybe even cut out a few of the honeycomb bits above/next to the fog light and have the hose pointed right behind it. Maybe cover the opening of the hose with a black filter sock to minimize the change of hydrolock/getting the filter wet/dirty, secured with a hose clamp and some zip ties.
3) I would keep the stock duct up top, and cut open the slits on the plastic radiator cover like @jmr did.
4) Use heat tape everywhere possible, as long as it looks clean, especially on the tube that's over the tube. Could do a really clean job if you get a turbo blanket and do the installs simultaneously.
5) Get an aftermarket panel filter (leaning toward dry, but still not sure).

I think I'll skip the the silicone intake hose. Not really sure if it's worth the $50. The turbulence the corrugated stock hose makes I think is completely negligible, and I'm not sure of any reduced heatsoak benefits.

An added bonus would be getting a turbo blanket, but that install looks like a total PITA. Can't argue with the results though, seems like it's worth it. A company also came out with a blanket for the Type-R downpipes. Would be cool to get one for the 1.5T as well, as I'm not sure about heat wrapping an aftermarket downpipe. I've read that the insulation can be uneven due to the overlapping nature of wrap and can lead to uneven heat stress distribution.
 

10GenPearlSi

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FWIW, I do like my Stage 1 hose and think it is an improvement over the stock hose. I got it because I thought it would be easier to wrap, but when I got it, I am sure it does a good heat insulation job on it's own. I do love the roar that I get when I go WOT! I am sure it is not as much as a Cobra, but it is nice. At lower revs it is just a little louder than stock. My car also pulls strong to redline. I got my hose used cheap. There are people who upgraded to Cobras and will sell old Stage 1 stuff.
 


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I have a suggestion for those that are cheap and may like doing some experimentation. Here is something anyone can do.

Wrap your intake in aluminum foil.

This is cheap, easy and can be quickly done. If you are one who thinks deeply, than this isn't geared towards you. If you are interested, then do it and look at the before/after results for yourself. You may be pleasantly surprised. I used this to wrap a cardboard box intake I made on my previous Honda. Worked like a charm. Just sharing!
 

Si Stuart

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It is where the air comes in stock, though I want to clarify that the stock box doesn't draw from the resonator. The top of the airbox has a snorkel where it draws in air, which then routes from the top of the box, around the back side, and then it feeds into the bottom of the airbox. I blocked it off both at the top where it draws air, and then inside at the bottom where the air would feed into. The foam was probably unnecessary since the duct tape is there, but I'd done it just to be certain that no air was being drawn in from the stock inputs.

The resonator is just another plastic box under the airbox, and there's a minimal opening between the two. Essentially (with the stock setup) as air is going into the airbox, the small opening between the airbox and the resonator allows the air to pulse in a manner which makes it more quiet.
Do you believe there would be any negative side effects of removing the resonator and leaving the bottom inlet unplugged from the stock airbox? I don't want to hack my stock intake, but I do want to remove the resonator for sound purposes and possible air flow :)
 
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odinist

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Do you believe there would be any negative side effects of removing the resonator and leaving the bottom inlet unplugged from the stock airbox? I don't want to hack my stock intake, but I do want to remove the resonator for sound purposes and possible air flow :)
I ran with just the intake resonator removed for a week or so. Added the slightest bit of intake noise, but otherwise had no effect either positive or negative. Will not affect airflow in any way, as the resonator isn't involved in the actual induction of air.
 


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odinist

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Wouldn't leaving the resonator inlet on the airbox unplugged just draw in hot air from the engine bay?

Edit: hot air* lol
It's literally like 1/8th of an inch at most.
 

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Myx

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I don't have a tuner either. :)

I use this dongle https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXGX8V6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 w with the Torque Pro app. Torque Pro doesn't read the IAT correctly though, you'll have to add it as a custom PID using the following:

PID: 0168
LONG NAME: Intake Air Temp
SHORT NAME: IAT
MIN VAL: -40
MAX VAL: 300
SCALE: x1
UNIT: °C
EQUATION: B-40


I didn't know how to do this. For those that don't that have this app, try this link ---> How to add custom PID to Torque Pro App.
 

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For those who removed the resonator from the stock airbox: how did you mount the upper and lower airboxes without it? It's been a while since I removed my airbox, but if I recall correctly, they're only physically mounted to the resonator. Are they just dangling from the intake hose?
 
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odinist

odinist

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For those who removed the resonator from the stock airbox: how did you mount the upper and lower airboxes without it? It's been a while since I removed my airbox, but if I recall correctly, they're only physically mounted to the resonator. Are they just dangling from the intake hose?
With the resonator removed, there are still two bolts that hold up the stock airbox.
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