Starting a complete audio build, 2 way active front stage, DSP, sub.

[ebatr24]

So has it been confirmed that the kids give a full range? Thinking of adding an LC7I for a 6 channel amp and was trying to figure out wiring.

I run an LC7i, although I don't really run my speakers through it right now, just use it as a glorified lc2i since I run my front speakers through a kicker key amp.

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[visualabstrakt]

I was planning to use an LC7i to feed a 6 channel amp. I planned on running the tweeter and mids on separate channels and then bridging the last two for the sub. I’m hoping the factory amp sends a full range signal to mids so that I don’t have to sum signals. I’m also wondering if the tweeters are crossovered at the factory amp or are they protected at the tweeter. Trying to avoid buying new stuff if I could since I already have the gear from an old project that I didn’t get around to. Do you guys think this plan would be ok?

 

[ebatr24]

I was planning to use an LC7i to feed a 6 channel amp. I planned on running the tweeter and mids on separate channels and then bridging the last two for the sub. I’m hoping the factory amp sends a full range signal to mids so that I don’t have to sum signals. I’m also wondering if the tweeters are crossovered at the factory amp or are they protected at the tweeter. Trying to avoid buying new stuff if I could since I already have the gear from an old project that I didn’t get around to. Do you guys think this plan would be ok?

Pretty sure it's crossed over at the amp. On my kicker key amp I couldn't run my front speakers in bi-amp mode because I had no mids. Instead the amp is just amplifying the doors and tweeters separately.

 

[visualabstrakt]

Pretty sure it's crossed over at the amp. On my kicker key amp I couldn't run my front speakers in bi-amp mode because I had no mids. Instead the amp is just amplifying the doors and tweeters separately.

I think that’s what i would like. To just amp the tweeter and mids separately. Just need to know the kids are a full range so I could use the signal for the sub channel as well. I would crossover the freq at the crossover then. I was worried I’d have to do the same for the tweeters but if the stock amp feeds high frequencies only I shouldnt have to I think.

 

[ebatr24]

I think that’s what i would like. To just amp the tweeter and mids separately. Just need to know the kids are a full range so I could use the signal for the sub channel as well. I would crossover the freq at the crossover then. I was worried I’d have to do the same for the tweeters but if the stock amp feeds high frequencies only I should let uave to I think.

Using the doors for a sub doesn't have full range, it lacked low end bass for me

 

[Snmtazz70]

I went with Morel components all around with small speaker in dash. Also 12" sub in a rhino lined box. Morel is so clear!!

 

[visualabstrakt]

Using the doors for a sub doesn't have full range, it lacked low end bass for me

What did you end up doing to resolve this?

 

[ebatr24]

What did you end up doing to resolve this?

I run a summed signal from the doors and the stock sub to my amp. I use the crossover at the amp to set the max frequency where I like it, it sounds quite good. As I've gotten older I've grown to appreciate SQ over just loudness, I am pretty happy with JL components and subs.

 

[visualabstrakt]

I run a summed signal from the doors and the stock sub to my amp. I use the crossover at the amp to set the max frequency where I like it, it sounds quite good. As I've gotten older I've grown to appreciate SQ over just loudness, I am pretty happy with JL components and subs.

That’s what I was thinking I’d have to do. Did you crossover the tweeters at the amp as well?

 

[ebatr24]

That’s what I was thinking I’d have to do. Did you crossover the tweeters at the amp as well?

No, I have a Kicker amp running the front sound stage. The tweeters and doors are separate, it makes the tweeters a little loud so I run a headunits eq as flat as possible except for a little extra bass.

 

[visualabstrakt]

No, I have a Kicker amp running the front sound stage. The tweeters and doors are separate, it makes the tweeters a little loud so I run a headunits eq as flat as possible except for a little extra bass.

Are you using stock speakers? What did you use to crossover the tweeters? Do you happen to know if the factory amp sends just high frequencies for the tweeter channels?

 

[few35t]

So a lot has happened since I last updated this thread. After the basic tuning and time alignment during initial setup I was reeeally happy with how it sounded. So much so that I basically just left it and went on with my life. At times I would notice this odd smell that to me was like the smell of new plastic. I demoed a song with some really low frequencies and cranked it way up, smell got worse, popped the trunk and saw smoke pouring out of the 12w3 enclosure =D

I backed off on the gain and did some more tuning. While playing around with it I got some crackling noises out of the passenger tweeter. At that point I stopped and took the car to a professional shop so they could if nothing else, analyze the input signal, see where my safe levels are, and use an o-scope to set my gains. Long story short, I was over driving the 12w3 (duh). The xd600 amp is actually putting about 760w rms and I was sending a clipped signal to it so yeah. Also the passenger tweeter was damaged, sigh. We replaced the tweeters with Hertz ML 280.3's, $450 retail, ouch. They also fit perfect, not a fan of the silver ring but oh well.

Got it more properly tuned, and played around with different subwoofer options. One thing the did though I was really happy about was bridge my mid woofer channels so I'm now sending a proper 260w rms to each door speaker lol, needless to say, a lot more punchy now, don't know why I was having issues with that.

Anyway, when I came back in they had me listen to it with the 2 Kicker L7's you see pictured before I knew what was in there. They sounded awesome obviously but the box is huge and weighs ~100lbs and is super awkward to pick up, really can't do it alone. I have an Alpine Type R 12", and a couple other 12" subs I've been playing around with in a prefab ported enclosure in the mean time. Haven't had issues with over driving any of them, I guess the W3 is happier UNDER 500w rms.

Thing I LOVED about the Kickers though, the box is wrapped in black carpet with red stitching around the sub surround and red embroidered Kicker logo, it matches PERFECT. AND it's trapezoidal in the front and back, meaning that when it's pushed back against the seat the front of the box is VERTICAL. For those reasons I decided to buy the same thing but the single sub version, it'll sit ~6.5" further back and weigh maybe 50lbs. I'll still be able to get a full size suitcase in the back. Don't have it yet but I'll definitely add some photos when I get it in there.

 

[few35t]

And for those of you wondering what the input signal from the mids looks like here it is:

I don't fully understand why but I can assure you, I am not lacking any low or high end output and I'm only using the mids as inputs. I even have the tweeter levels at -7dB.

And here's some older install pics I never got around to posting.

^ Phone mount setup to provide high quality audio. Obviously don't want highly compressed blutooth audio on a setup like this.

 

[ebatr24]

So a lot has happened since I last updated this thread. After the basic tuning and time alignment during initial setup I was reeeally happy with how it sounded. So much so that I basically just left it and went on with my life. At times I would notice this odd smell that to me was like the smell of new plastic. I demoed a song with some really low frequencies and cranked it way up, smell got worse, popped the trunk and saw smoke pouring out of the 12w3 enclosure =D

I backed off on the gain and did some more tuning. While playing around with it I got some crackling noises out of the passenger tweeter. At that point I stopped and took the car to a professional shop so they could if nothing else, analyze the input signal, see where my safe levels are, and use an o-scope to set my gains. Long story short, I was over driving the 12w3 (duh). The xd600 amp is actually putting about 760w rms and I was sending a clipped signal to it so yeah. Also the passenger tweeter was damaged, sigh. We replaced the tweeters with Hertz ML 280.3's, $450 retail, ouch. They also fit perfect, not a fan of the silver ring but oh well.

Got it more properly tuned, and played around with different subwoofer options. One thing the did though I was really happy about was bridge my mid woofer channels so I'm now sending a proper 260w rms to each door speaker lol, needless to say, a lot more punchy now, don't know why I was having issues with that.

Anyway, when I came back in they had me listen to it with the 2 Kicker L7's you see pictured before I knew what was in there. They sounded awesome obviously but the box is huge and weighs ~100lbs and is super awkward to pick up, really can't do it alone. I have an Alpine Type R 12", and a couple other 12" subs I've been playing around with in a prefab ported enclosure in the mean time. Haven't had issues with over driving any of them, I guess the W3 is happier UNDER 500w rms.

Thing I LOVED about the Kickers though, the box is wrapped in black carpet with red stitching around the sub surround and red embroidered Kicker logo, it matches PERFECT. AND it's trapezoidal in the front and back, meaning that when it's pushed back against the seat the front of the box is VERTICAL. For those reasons I decided to buy the same thing but the single sub version, it'll sit ~6.5" further back and weigh maybe 50lbs. I'll still be able to get a full size suitcase in the back. Don't have it yet but I'll definitely add some photos when I get it in there.

If you like space you should consider some JL 10w6v3s in a sealed enclosure, they take very little space and really pound. A cheaper alternative use to be the old variant of the Kicker Comp R, but it looks like the CompQ is the closest thing to it now. It amazes me how small the box for my 10w6v3s is and how hard they can hit while sounding really clean

 

[few35t]

If you like space you should consider some JL 10w6v3s in a sealed enclosure, they take very little space and really pound. A cheaper alternative use to be the old variant of the Kicker Comp R, but it looks like the CompQ is the closest thing to it now. It amazes me how small the box for my 10w6v3s is and how hard they can hit while sounding really clean

I'm having a custom sealed enclosure built for 2 12w3's right now, should be done Friday or Saturday.

Also found a killer deal on an HD750/1 so that'll be replacing the XD600/1. Grabbed the HD amp as I was considering going single W7 but they're just too big and heavy.

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