Si SPEC Inc. Proprietary Stage 2+ Clutch/Aluminum SMF + More!

[Cscott_xGen]

jesus man not good for your car

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[IvanJonn]

jesus man not good for your car

Acknowledged and agreed. Haha not to also forget I was honestly pushing the limits of the clutch when it started slipping. I didn't have a car and sacrificed the drivability cause I had no other way to get around. Luckily after it was fully shot, I had a friend who was willing to loan me their A3 for a bit.

 

[LilToTo17]

Let's just say 20,000 miles of lots of things. Maybe a few launches included. But I also took advantage of the fact that it was going to be swapped out so a lot of people tried stick for the first time in this car hahaha.

And glad you do! Been hearing a lot of people trying to get the retrofit kit. And thanks! Can't wait either. And I'm trying to find another delay valve. Not sure if mine is reusable. But also might keep it out for the time being.

Delay valve shouldn't be removed lol

 

[IvanJonn]

Delay valve shouldn't be removed lol

Would you be able to clear the air for me on this? I keep hearing different things...

Like how the delay valve prevents a more direct feel, and causes more slip which isn't good for the clutch. Then I hear of course about the drivetrain shock and whatnot, then I also hear on the same subject that it should also be kept in because the OEM flywheel isn't very strong. But I have a new aftermarket performance flywheel and clutch so should this still be an issue? I'm just hearing a lot of 50/50 on removing or keeping it in. Any evidence on paper for the benefits/downfalls for both options?

 

[LilToTo17]

Would you be able to clear the air for me on this? I keep hearing different things...

Like how the delay valve prevents a more direct feel, and causes more slip which isn't good for the clutch. Then I hear of course about the drivetrain shock and whatnot, then I also hear on the same subject that it should also be kept in because the OEM flywheel isn't very strong. But I have a new aftermarket performance flywheel and clutch so should this still be an issue? I'm just hearing a lot of 50/50 on removing or keeping it in. Any evidence on paper for the benefits/downfalls for both options?

Well you wouldn’t get a clutch if you weren’t racing or speed shifting. Also here a pic of Eman who has the fastest 10th Gen SI on record and made the original retrofitted type R clutch

 

[10GenPearlSi]

If you dump the clutch, the CDV valve will slow the engagement down. That is why Eman said that. Also you can't slip the clutch much on purpose as the CDV valve will grab the plate on it's own. The second reason is why I like mine out. Just don't dump the clutch as fast or engage too slowly and cause a lot of slipping/heating.

 

[tehSteve]

Also you can't slip the clutch much on purpose as the CDV valve will grab the plate on it's own.

Exactly this. Takes away from a true manual driving experience. I want control of the clutch when it comes to slipping.

 

[thatlilwhiteone]

What did you torque everything back to?

 

[IvanJonn]

What did you torque everything back to?

I forget... Cause my buddy was the one who did the install. I was there for when he did the actual clutch though. From what I remember the flywheel bolts were 90 ft. lbs. And the pressure plate was 19 but he just put 20.

 

[IvanJonn]

Wow... Just, WOW.

I just got my car back a couple of hours ago but I'm just amazed at how it's running now. It might be from the fact that I've never had a clutch swap before but man does this clutch feel real good!

Honestly kind of speechless to how it turned out and how it performs just from the start of the break in period and how much better it feels than the OEM setup.

Really don't know what to say! So if anyone has any questions just shoot them and I'll answer right away!

 

[BoostedDreams]

Wow... Just, WOW.

I just got my car back a couple of hours ago but I'm just amazed at how it's running now. It might be from the fact that I've never had a clutch swap before but man does this clutch feel real good!

Honestly kind of speechless to how it turned out and how it performs just from the start of the break in period and how much better it feels than the OEM setup.

Really don't know what to say! So if anyone has any questions just shoot them and I'll answer right away!

I’ll start. How’s the pedal feel and grab point to OEM?
Oh and is there any noticeable chatter ? Do the rpms fall a lot faster between shifts ?

 

[IvanJonn]

I’ll start. How’s the pedal feel and grab point to OEM?
Oh and is there any noticeable chatter ? Do the rpms fall a lot faster between shifts ?

Pedal feel is noticably firmer. But honestly in a good way. The grab point is also low. Grabs and grips real nice. However the only downfall I have found is that it may need to be adjusted because the automatic parking brake release and brake hold are affected cause the engagement is different than OEM. The ECU is expecting you to lift off the clutch more but at that point you're already about to stall.

Very daily friendly in my opinion. After a short drive and warming up, at idle and low speeds/RPM's there is chatter. I tried videoing the engine bay idle but I honestly feel like aluminum would be a real good choice! It's much like @Two Step Performance said about the chatter. You can hear it, but it's very faint. Only if you're really listening for it is when you hear it. Other than that, the engine, hood, and even radio pretty much covers the noise. I only noticed it when I sat still in the car with the radio off. Maybe this will change upon finishing the break in period but only time will tell. And don't get me started on the RPM's. They drop AND rise SIGNIFICANTLY faster. No more rev hang! It boggles me to see how much the DMF was holding back the engine in this way. I have a video of before and after. It's a noticable difference indeed. In between shifts the RPM's hold for a split second but I feel like that's the throttle padding of some sorts. After all I am running the factory tune as of this moment for the break in period. I'm pretty sure with the rev hang delete through Hondata or KTuner it will be close to nonexistent!

 

[Two Step Performance]

Glad to hear you are enjoying it so far! We'd love for you to write a review on our site once you feel you've had enough time with the new kit. Many people are curious about this package but do not know what to expect.

https://twostepperformance.com/spec...wheel-combo-for-2016-2018-honda-civic-1-5t-1/

Just look for the "Write a Review" link. Thanks!

 

[IvanJonn]

Glad to hear you are enjoying it so far! We'd love for you to write a review on our site once you feel you've had enough time with the new kit. Many people are curious about this package but do not know what to expect.

https://twostepperformance.com/spec...wheel-combo-for-2016-2018-honda-civic-1-5t-1/

Just look for the "Write a Review" link. Thanks!

Will do! I'll go through the break in period first before I do so, so that's it's as accurate as possible.

 

[IvanJonn]

I want you all to check out these two videos. One is before the clutch swap and one is after. Keep in mind they are both being revved on a FACTORY tune. The lightweight flywheel makes a huge difference, and I can only imagine how much more with the settings through Hondata or KTuner. Absolutely amazing how different this car behaves.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AzN48P3D9y3sEYkVA

You can watch them through this link since the files are too large to be uploaded. The video in the daytime is before the clutch swap.

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