JT Si
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #1
I've been driving on the ACT Organic clutch kit (HC10-HDSS) for a few weeks now, and so far it's been pretty great. I've experienced a few lockouts that I was able to cure by being more diligent with my clutch foot and ensuring I had the pedal at the floor before shifting.
Since I finished the break in and was now able to fully experiment with TSP Stage 1 on map 3, I decided to go take some datalogs to check my fuel trims, knock, and afrs to make sure everything was working correctly.
After I was fully warmed up from driving for about 30 minutes, I decided to give it all she's got on a freeway onramp (for logging purposes, of course). I hammered it in first, pushed in the clutch, and tried to shift into second only to find I was hard locked out. I thought it was strange, so I released the clutch and pushed the pedal again which felt odd. Even on second pedal press I was still locked out.
Between the lockout and the strange pedal feel, I pumped the pedal several times and was able to shift into gear and continue driving around without trouble.
Unfortunately, I started to notice the pedal feeling was different.
The engagement point was higher than before the incident, and at the very top at first press on the pedal it felt very rubbery/springy/spongy. Since the clutch was still holding under power no problem and disengaging and engaging perfectly, I figured I must have blown out the diaphragm on the master cylinder - I've read somewhere those things can fail, and it seems like the most likely suspect, right?
Well, I had a Sirimoto N1 sitting in a box I hadn't put in yet, so I figured I'd swap it in and disassemble the OEM master cylinder to see what failed.
After I got the N1 installed, I tore down the OEM master cylinder and couldn't find any obvious failure point. All the rubber o-rings were seated and undamaged, the rubber piston seals were in perfect shape, the diaphragm is actually a thick metal plate with a wide flat x-ring and appeared to be in working order.
Well, I thought to myself, maybe the failure mode isn't so obvious? I'll finish the N1 install and adjust it and see if it feels any better.
I started up the car and started adjusting the pedal only to find out the N1's threaded rod is 5-10mm longer than the OEM rod, and with the ACT clutch kit I cannot lower the pedal far enough to get the adjustment right. I've got the pedal backed all the way up against the threaded rod as far as it can go and the clutch engagement point is too high/the pedal travels too far down and starts to reclamp the spring.
I figured, hey, I can still test drive this and see if the weird pedal feel is solved as long as I don't bottom out the pedal. So I went for a test drive, and the pedal feeling is all sorts of confused. Vague, less direct, less pedal weight. I made sure I bled the system correctly so I don't believe there's any air in the line.
Is the N1 just that shitty, or have I broken some other part of the system causing this issue? Since the clutch still seems to function perfectly fine I don't know if it means the failure is some part of the hydraulic system (slave cylinder?) or if there's a way for a bellevue spring to fail in a way like this.
For now, I feel pretty screwed the N1 can't be adjusted the way it needs to be for the ACT kit and I've contacted Procivic about it.
It's a shame the kzCMC is sold out right now, but I'm not convinced it would fix this weird pedal feel issue, either.
Since I finished the break in and was now able to fully experiment with TSP Stage 1 on map 3, I decided to go take some datalogs to check my fuel trims, knock, and afrs to make sure everything was working correctly.
After I was fully warmed up from driving for about 30 minutes, I decided to give it all she's got on a freeway onramp (for logging purposes, of course). I hammered it in first, pushed in the clutch, and tried to shift into second only to find I was hard locked out. I thought it was strange, so I released the clutch and pushed the pedal again which felt odd. Even on second pedal press I was still locked out.
Between the lockout and the strange pedal feel, I pumped the pedal several times and was able to shift into gear and continue driving around without trouble.
Unfortunately, I started to notice the pedal feeling was different.
The engagement point was higher than before the incident, and at the very top at first press on the pedal it felt very rubbery/springy/spongy. Since the clutch was still holding under power no problem and disengaging and engaging perfectly, I figured I must have blown out the diaphragm on the master cylinder - I've read somewhere those things can fail, and it seems like the most likely suspect, right?
Well, I had a Sirimoto N1 sitting in a box I hadn't put in yet, so I figured I'd swap it in and disassemble the OEM master cylinder to see what failed.
After I got the N1 installed, I tore down the OEM master cylinder and couldn't find any obvious failure point. All the rubber o-rings were seated and undamaged, the rubber piston seals were in perfect shape, the diaphragm is actually a thick metal plate with a wide flat x-ring and appeared to be in working order.
Well, I thought to myself, maybe the failure mode isn't so obvious? I'll finish the N1 install and adjust it and see if it feels any better.
I started up the car and started adjusting the pedal only to find out the N1's threaded rod is 5-10mm longer than the OEM rod, and with the ACT clutch kit I cannot lower the pedal far enough to get the adjustment right. I've got the pedal backed all the way up against the threaded rod as far as it can go and the clutch engagement point is too high/the pedal travels too far down and starts to reclamp the spring.
I figured, hey, I can still test drive this and see if the weird pedal feel is solved as long as I don't bottom out the pedal. So I went for a test drive, and the pedal feeling is all sorts of confused. Vague, less direct, less pedal weight. I made sure I bled the system correctly so I don't believe there's any air in the line.
Is the N1 just that shitty, or have I broken some other part of the system causing this issue? Since the clutch still seems to function perfectly fine I don't know if it means the failure is some part of the hydraulic system (slave cylinder?) or if there's a way for a bellevue spring to fail in a way like this.
For now, I feel pretty screwed the N1 can't be adjusted the way it needs to be for the ACT kit and I've contacted Procivic about it.
It's a shame the kzCMC is sold out right now, but I'm not convinced it would fix this weird pedal feel issue, either.
Sponsored
