ladysi
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- Andrea
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- 2018 civic si black sedan
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Review/Comparison/Install: CorsoMotion and iJDMTOY LED Rear Reflectors for the Si Sedan/Hatchback
Ok, this review took 2x longer to write, then actually do. Whew. FML. Enjoy assholes.
I bought the CorsoMotion reflectors + modules literally 5 days before I first heard of the iJDMTOY reflectors here on civicx. Nice timing guys. I swallowed my pride and bought the iJDMTOY reflectors too and decided to do a side by side review. Behold:
CorsoMotion:
Reflectors:
iJDMTOY:
Reflectors:
Preface:
Much of this was covered by @jtamase in the thread https://www.civicx.com/threads/rear-bumper-led-lights-for-the-10th-gen-civic-hatchback.37038/. Please read through that thread as well as his is more of a guide and mine is more of a narrative. I will just explain some shit and throw pictures/videos at you. I have aftermarket sequential smoked led taillights and an Si sedan, so my steps may differ slightly from the ones you need to perform. When in doubt.....Think. And if you are really in doubt, ask on the forums or be brave and forge ahead alone.
Suggested Gear:
None of this is required, but if I was going to do it all again (and I might), I would make sure to have the full list of stuff below.
General Steps:
1. Reflector/Control Module Prep
Why this step?
Because. Shit happens, and bumpers/taillights may need to be removed in the future. And quick splices are dirty and problematic, especially if you live where there is wet/freezing weather.
CorsoMotion:
In order to prep these, you should understand how they will connect through the car. The taillight splices will quick connect to the control modules through the bumper gap and then quick connect to the reflectors through the fake vent. The control module cannot fit through the hole in the fake vent, so the above extra set of quick connects is required between the module and the reflector. Also, make sure to seal the holes on the control modules with hot glue.
Basically:
I didn't take photos of attaching the quick connects for the reflectors and the two wire side of the control modules, but here it is completed.
iJDMTOY:
These are relatively simple to prep. You will need to add quick connects and heat shrink to the 4 wires coming out of the reflector housing.
Basically:
Notes:
I chose to solder 18g wires (always use a linemans splice/joint!) to the reflector/control module wires where ever I added a quick connect. This helps with the stiffness of the connection adding durability to the parts of the cable you will apply the most pressure/tension when disconnecting the quick connects. It also makes it easy to use the more durable quick connects and better insulation from thicker heat shrink. This is not necessary, but advised.
2. Taillight Removal:
Unscrew the two bolts on the outer edge of the trunk opening holding down the rear edge of the taillights.
Remove the taillight by pulling from the front most part pulling toward the back of the car. There are a couple of plug clips holding it in. You may want to tape off the body of the car around the taillight with auto masking tape to protect the paint in case you bump or scratch against it with the taillight during removal. I don't but I have pulled mine so many times another small scratch wont hurt.
3. Taillight Splices
I dislike that most folk are just splicing the wires to the taillights and calling it good (I am guilty of this too). Splices, especially quick splices, are notorious for weak/intermittent connections, wearing down over time, damaging wires if they have to be removed/replaced for service, and in this case they increase the time necessary to remove the bumper or troubleshoot the reflectors. Just in the few days between doing this and writing this post, I had 1 splice act up.
Though I used quick splices, I spliced them to an 18g wire with a heat shrinked quick connect. Though I would suggest that you use T-TAPs with a spade terminal, and then wrap them with vulcanized tape to seal them (do not wrap over the spade terminal end though!)...I thought I had some, but alas, I did not..it was mid afternoon..and my car was already disassembled. I make this error too often. Not having my own garage - "garage surfing" you could call it, can be quite chaotic and super difficult to plan. My trunk is my toolbox.
Anyways, don't be like me, get all the things you need and double check before pulling that first push-pin or removing that first bolt.
So, my car is a 2018 Si Sedan. Yours might be different. Please test. Here are the wires I used:
4. TEST
At this point, plug in your reflectors TO BOTH SIDES. Start the car and test:
5. Bumper Removal
Start by removing the screws from each rear wheel well rim. You will have 3 screws to remove per side (4 if you have OEM splash guards). I suggest using a short phillips tip stuck into a ratchet as you only have like 2 inches max room to work with between the fender and the tire (less if you have 19" rims).
Remove the two hex bolts underneath the trunk opening.
Remove the 4 push pins from the underside of the car. One under each fender nearest the wheel well, and two others below the trunk.
Watch the video at the beginning of this step again. Loosen up both sides of the bumper by pulling the edge directly back from the wheel well - there should be a few clips on either side. Finally, pull the bumper directly back from the rear center, there are two clips offset on the rear that should release. You may want something soft under your bumper at this point as the bumper may fall to the ground - cardboard at minnimun, but a rubber mat would be best.
Viola!
Bumper Removal Notes:
If you live in a state like MN, you will be appalled at how much sand/dirt/salt/gunk has accumulated on the inside of the bumper body and all over the back of the now exposed bumper and frame of the car. CLEAN IT UP. This is one of your only chances to do so and will help increase the longevity of the body and metal. After 1 year ownership in MN, IT WAS FUCKING BAD. You have been advised.
Also, you may have encountered much resistance trying to remove the push pins on the underside of the car. I did. I investigated and found that little bits of gravel and salt accumulated on them and caused them to "freeze" in certain positions and they took much effort to remove. I experience the same issues with push pins whenever I remove my front bumper as well. I wash them out, banging them to clear the blockage, and then make sure they open and close freely and cleanly before reassembly. You have been advised.
Oh Dear! Dirty Naked Rear!
6. Fake Vent Removal:
Take your time. Reread the post by @jtamase. There are two screws to remove on the back of the vent. Then take your time popping the tabs around the vent. It will should come pretty easily, if not, you may want to shift your technique. Once the vent is removed, remove the reflector as well. There is a tab thing. You will figure it out.
7. Reflector Install
It you did all the wiring prep, this step is a breeze.
Corsomotion Install:
As the CorsoMotion reflectors are OEM, they should just snap in. Make sure to feed their wires through the corresponding hole. My set fit perfect, like a glove.
I had issues removing this CorsoMotion reflector (foreshadowing) as the hot glue used to seal the wire hole interfered with the tab release thingy...
Install the fake vent back into the bumper, again feeding the wires/connects through the obvious hole.
Then connect up the control module.
iJDMTOY Install:
As the iJDMTOY is not a perfect fit, you may need to use some 3m tape to hold the bottom half of it in place. Also, find a small/short screw, you will want to screw that into the back of the vent into the reflector through the obvious hole. Install the vent into the bumper, be mindful to pass the wires through the obvious holes.
8. TEST
Connect both reflectors/control modules to the spliced quick connects. Test all functions once again.
9. Reassembly
Put every thing back together. Be mindful of the reflector cables running up through the bumper, there is an obvious gap, run them there. Do not pinch them during bumper reinstallation.
10. TEST
Before you drive, check all this again. Then drive for a few miles, on some rougher roads, and check again. Especially if you only used quick splices.
ALL FUCKING DONE. CONGRATS. TO YOU. TO ME. NOW TAKE WHAT YOU LEARNED AND DO SOMETHING OUTRAGEOUS.
Then post it and tag me. Honestly, this is so long, tag me if you read this far.
Conclusion:
Side by side videos (Corsomotion on the left, iJDMTOY on the right):
And now the rating thing.
CorsoMotion Pros:
iJDMTOY Pros:
So...... you may be asking yourself if I drove around with 2 different led reflectors? I did not. There was one I clearly liked better on looks alone.
Behold: iJDMTOY LED Reflectors + Smoke Sequential LED Taillights
P.S: To be fair to the CorsoMotions, I have included some media below that illustrate the issues I had with the alignment of the LED strip, the incompleteness of the light fill of the reflector, and the lack of sequential motion:
Honestly, if you made it to the end without skimming and actually reading. Wow. Way to not budget your time effectively. Congrats for that.
Laters.
Ok, this review took 2x longer to write, then actually do. Whew. FML. Enjoy assholes.
I bought the CorsoMotion reflectors + modules literally 5 days before I first heard of the iJDMTOY reflectors here on civicx. Nice timing guys. I swallowed my pride and bought the iJDMTOY reflectors too and decided to do a side by side review. Behold:
CorsoMotion:
Reflectors:
- First Impressions: OEM Reflectors that retains the actual reflector functionality. It looks like they pried the reflectors apart, drilled a hole for the wires, installed an led strip, and then sealed the housing with some industrial strength glue. Hot glue was used to seal the hole with the wires. One of the reflectors release clip does not work correctly due to the hot glue in the way - much more force was necessary to remove it from the fake vent.
- Wiring: Two wires, black (ground) and red (12v). They provide power to the led strips in the reflectors. The wiring opening is sealed, the wires are really thin gauges, and the kit does not include connectors.
- Build Quality: Solid. Has a little more weight than the empty OEM reflectors. Glue is solid. Fully sealed.
- Cost: $190
- First Impressions: Small black boxes. Mine did not have labels for wiring (unlike the photos on the CorsoMotion website). Two wires in, 4 wires out. The modules support brakes, flashers, and headlights. It seems like they must have some resistance on the headlights circuit as it is dimmer than the brakes circuit.
- Wiring: 4 wires: black (ground), red (brakes), white (headlights), and yellow (blinker). The wiring opening is not sealed, the wires are really thin gauges, and the kit does not include connectors.
- Build Quality: Not so great. There are large holes on either side of the modules for the wires, these will need to be sealed.
- Cost: $24
iJDMTOY:
Reflectors:
- First Impressions: Much thicker than the OEMs or CorsoMotions. Not a perfect fit on shape either. They are well sealed and I cannot really see what is inside them, But my guess is an led strip and some type of diffuser layer covered by the black and clear outer plastic grid shell. They are sequential flashers from the top down.
- Wiring: 4 wires: black (ground), red (brakes), green (headlights), and yellow (blinker). The wiring openings are sealed, really thin gauges, and no connectors.
- Build Quality: Ok. They are obviously made of cheaper plastic and the lens is soft enough plastic that will accumulate and show scrtaches over time.
- Control Modules: None/Internal
- Cost: $46
Preface:
Much of this was covered by @jtamase in the thread https://www.civicx.com/threads/rear-bumper-led-lights-for-the-10th-gen-civic-hatchback.37038/. Please read through that thread as well as his is more of a guide and mine is more of a narrative. I will just explain some shit and throw pictures/videos at you. I have aftermarket sequential smoked led taillights and an Si sedan, so my steps may differ slightly from the ones you need to perform. When in doubt.....Think. And if you are really in doubt, ask on the forums or be brave and forge ahead alone.
Suggested Gear:
None of this is required, but if I was going to do it all again (and I might), I would make sure to have the full list of stuff below.
- Rubber Gloves: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BR8KB4/
Suggested for saving your paint, lens, and hands from small damage. Also improves grip and doesn't leave fingerprints. - Quick Splice T-Taps with Spade Quick Connect: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/
I use regular old quick connects below, but these are superior. Less wire prep as the quick splice acts as the female disconnect, and the kit includes the male quick connect. Also, you can always reopen the splice and drop a point of solder in to make it permanent. - Vulcanizing Tape: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWROLIG
This is super useful for wrapping wire loom or for quick seals. If you go the permanent route with the above T-Taps, wrap the tap after the solder with this. It will help waterproof it. Be careful not to wrap it around the quick connect. - Wire Loom: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVZFL6S/
Though I did not use it below, this will protect the wires and extend their longevity in the hell that is inside the rear bumper. Close it up with some Vulcanizing Tape. - Heat Shrink: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LVFDLUO
I didn't use colored heat shrink as all I had was black. Because of this I had to expose a bit of the wire so that it would have useful color-coding. If you used colored heat shrink, you can fully protect the wires. - 3M Tape (iJDMTOYs only)
- Extra Male/Female Quick Connects (CorsoMotion only)
- Rosin Core Electronics Solder
- 18g Wire (colored if you do not have colored heat shrink)
- 2 short screws (iJDMTOY only)
- Hot Glue (CorsoMotion only)
General Steps:
- Reflector/Control Module Wiring Prep
- Taillight Removal
- Taillight Splices
- TEST
- Bumper Removal
- Fake Vent Removal
- Reflector Install
- TEST
- Reassembly
- TEST
1. Reflector/Control Module Prep
Why this step?
Because. Shit happens, and bumpers/taillights may need to be removed in the future. And quick splices are dirty and problematic, especially if you live where there is wet/freezing weather.
CorsoMotion:
In order to prep these, you should understand how they will connect through the car. The taillight splices will quick connect to the control modules through the bumper gap and then quick connect to the reflectors through the fake vent. The control module cannot fit through the hole in the fake vent, so the above extra set of quick connects is required between the module and the reflector. Also, make sure to seal the holes on the control modules with hot glue.
Basically:
Taillight splices -> quick connects -> bumper gap -> control module -> quick connects -> fake vent hole -> reflectors
I didn't take photos of attaching the quick connects for the reflectors and the two wire side of the control modules, but here it is completed.
iJDMTOY:
These are relatively simple to prep. You will need to add quick connects and heat shrink to the 4 wires coming out of the reflector housing.
Basically:
Taillight splices -> quick connects -> bumper gap -> fake vent hole -> reflectors.
Notes:
I chose to solder 18g wires (always use a linemans splice/joint!) to the reflector/control module wires where ever I added a quick connect. This helps with the stiffness of the connection adding durability to the parts of the cable you will apply the most pressure/tension when disconnecting the quick connects. It also makes it easy to use the more durable quick connects and better insulation from thicker heat shrink. This is not necessary, but advised.
2. Taillight Removal:
Unscrew the two bolts on the outer edge of the trunk opening holding down the rear edge of the taillights.
Remove the taillight by pulling from the front most part pulling toward the back of the car. There are a couple of plug clips holding it in. You may want to tape off the body of the car around the taillight with auto masking tape to protect the paint in case you bump or scratch against it with the taillight during removal. I don't but I have pulled mine so many times another small scratch wont hurt.
3. Taillight Splices
I dislike that most folk are just splicing the wires to the taillights and calling it good (I am guilty of this too). Splices, especially quick splices, are notorious for weak/intermittent connections, wearing down over time, damaging wires if they have to be removed/replaced for service, and in this case they increase the time necessary to remove the bumper or troubleshoot the reflectors. Just in the few days between doing this and writing this post, I had 1 splice act up.
Though I used quick splices, I spliced them to an 18g wire with a heat shrinked quick connect. Though I would suggest that you use T-TAPs with a spade terminal, and then wrap them with vulcanized tape to seal them (do not wrap over the spade terminal end though!)...I thought I had some, but alas, I did not..it was mid afternoon..and my car was already disassembled. I make this error too often. Not having my own garage - "garage surfing" you could call it, can be quite chaotic and super difficult to plan. My trunk is my toolbox.
Anyways, don't be like me, get all the things you need and double check before pulling that first push-pin or removing that first bolt.
So, my car is a 2018 Si Sedan. Yours might be different. Please test. Here are the wires I used:
- Blue car harness - White wire (brake 12v) - Connected to a red wire/heat shrink quick connect
- Green car harness - White wire (blinker 12v) - Connected to a yellow wire/heat shrink quick connect
- Green car harness - Black wire (blinker ground) - Connected to a black wire/heat shrink quick connect
- Black car harness - White wire (low beam headlights 12v) - Connected to a green wire/heat shrink quick connect
4. TEST
At this point, plug in your reflectors TO BOTH SIDES. Start the car and test:
- Brakes
- Headlights
- Hazards
- Blinkers
5. Bumper Removal
Start by removing the screws from each rear wheel well rim. You will have 3 screws to remove per side (4 if you have OEM splash guards). I suggest using a short phillips tip stuck into a ratchet as you only have like 2 inches max room to work with between the fender and the tire (less if you have 19" rims).
Remove the two hex bolts underneath the trunk opening.
Remove the 4 push pins from the underside of the car. One under each fender nearest the wheel well, and two others below the trunk.
Watch the video at the beginning of this step again. Loosen up both sides of the bumper by pulling the edge directly back from the wheel well - there should be a few clips on either side. Finally, pull the bumper directly back from the rear center, there are two clips offset on the rear that should release. You may want something soft under your bumper at this point as the bumper may fall to the ground - cardboard at minnimun, but a rubber mat would be best.
Viola!
Bumper Removal Notes:
If you live in a state like MN, you will be appalled at how much sand/dirt/salt/gunk has accumulated on the inside of the bumper body and all over the back of the now exposed bumper and frame of the car. CLEAN IT UP. This is one of your only chances to do so and will help increase the longevity of the body and metal. After 1 year ownership in MN, IT WAS FUCKING BAD. You have been advised.
Also, you may have encountered much resistance trying to remove the push pins on the underside of the car. I did. I investigated and found that little bits of gravel and salt accumulated on them and caused them to "freeze" in certain positions and they took much effort to remove. I experience the same issues with push pins whenever I remove my front bumper as well. I wash them out, banging them to clear the blockage, and then make sure they open and close freely and cleanly before reassembly. You have been advised.
Oh Dear! Dirty Naked Rear!
6. Fake Vent Removal:
Take your time. Reread the post by @jtamase. There are two screws to remove on the back of the vent. Then take your time popping the tabs around the vent. It will should come pretty easily, if not, you may want to shift your technique. Once the vent is removed, remove the reflector as well. There is a tab thing. You will figure it out.
7. Reflector Install
It you did all the wiring prep, this step is a breeze.
Corsomotion Install:
As the CorsoMotion reflectors are OEM, they should just snap in. Make sure to feed their wires through the corresponding hole. My set fit perfect, like a glove.
I had issues removing this CorsoMotion reflector (foreshadowing) as the hot glue used to seal the wire hole interfered with the tab release thingy...
Install the fake vent back into the bumper, again feeding the wires/connects through the obvious hole.
Then connect up the control module.
iJDMTOY Install:
As the iJDMTOY is not a perfect fit, you may need to use some 3m tape to hold the bottom half of it in place. Also, find a small/short screw, you will want to screw that into the back of the vent into the reflector through the obvious hole. Install the vent into the bumper, be mindful to pass the wires through the obvious holes.
8. TEST
Connect both reflectors/control modules to the spliced quick connects. Test all functions once again.
9. Reassembly
Put every thing back together. Be mindful of the reflector cables running up through the bumper, there is an obvious gap, run them there. Do not pinch them during bumper reinstallation.
10. TEST
Before you drive, check all this again. Then drive for a few miles, on some rougher roads, and check again. Especially if you only used quick splices.
ALL FUCKING DONE. CONGRATS. TO YOU. TO ME. NOW TAKE WHAT YOU LEARNED AND DO SOMETHING OUTRAGEOUS.
Then post it and tag me. Honestly, this is so long, tag me if you read this far.
Conclusion:
Side by side videos (Corsomotion on the left, iJDMTOY on the right):
And now the rating thing.
CorsoMotion Pros:
- OEM Look
- Perfect OEM Fit
- Has reflector functionality so is fully street legal.
- Expensive. Like REALLY EXPENSIVE.
- Extra control modules required for full functionality.
- More soldering/sealing/quick connects than the iJDMTOYs.
- Less than inspiring aesthetics - looks like an LED strip stuck in the OEM housing and the led strip is not centered, is not straight, nor does it fill the full housing from top to bottom.
- Quality/Durability: 5
- Aesthetics: 2
- Price: 1
- Ease of Install: 2
- OEM Fit: 5
iJDMTOY Pros:
- CHEAP.
- Inspiring aesthetics - they have a cyberpunk look to them and pair nicely with the sequential smoked led taillights.
- No control modules, the electronics are sealed in the housing.
- Easy to install compared to the CorsoMotions.
- Not OEM fit. Not even close.
- Plastic housing seems less durable than the CorsoMotions.
- The lens is a polished plastic that will definitely show scratches over time.
- They are thicker than the CorsoMotions and protrude from the vents.
- They are secured with a single screw - 3m tape should be used to better secure them.
- Quality/Durability: 3
- Aesthetics: 5
- Price: 5
- Ease of Install: 4
- OEM Fit: 2
So...... you may be asking yourself if I drove around with 2 different led reflectors? I did not. There was one I clearly liked better on looks alone.
Behold: iJDMTOY LED Reflectors + Smoke Sequential LED Taillights
P.S: To be fair to the CorsoMotions, I have included some media below that illustrate the issues I had with the alignment of the LED strip, the incompleteness of the light fill of the reflector, and the lack of sequential motion:
Honestly, if you made it to the end without skimming and actually reading. Wow. Way to not budget your time effectively. Congrats for that.
Laters.
Last edited: