Recommended washing technique?

fatherpain

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Hey there godsmacksully,
Sorry to read you are having trouble. I have the exact same SGS28 and PF22 Foam Cannon setup so hopefully this helps:

Honda Civic 10th gen Recommended washing technique? DD84A421-6B87-477C-B958-3491B7E2015F

Here is the Foam Cannon. The silver quick connect fitting on the upper left should be installed and tightened using a wrench. It needs to have white Teflon tape wrapped on the threads before you install it, to prevent leaks. Everything is clockwise to tighten, so you wrap the Teflon tape counterclockwise (opposite direction) so it doesn’t unravel when you are threading in the fitting.

Foam sprays from the black plastic nozzle on the right. By turning it, the spray pattern adjusts from narrow to wide.

Honda Civic 10th gen Recommended washing technique? 2802E712-FE1E-4139-9D6E-EC84C2C91236

Unscrew the Cannon top from the bottle to add car shampoo. Dilute and add water to the shampoo instructions.

Honda Civic 10th gen Recommended washing technique? F9B964E5-454B-4ED6-93C7-77F5FCDA3B47

Here is the SGS28 gun with silver quick connect and green spray nozzle installed. For washing cars only use 40 degree or 25 degree nozzles. I use 25.

Honda Civic 10th gen Recommended washing technique? DCE526B1-EFAD-4B87-9783-331B5EC6D355

When ready to use the foam cannon, remove the green spray nozzle by pulling back on the silver quick disconnect...

Honda Civic 10th gen Recommended washing technique? 536C77FB-4FD2-49C5-8819-638118E1578C

Then pull the spray nozzle off.

Honda Civic 10th gen Recommended washing technique? 7823E39B-4602-49AF-9378-81D031CA61C6

Now you are ready to attach the SGS28 gun to the foam cannon.

Honda Civic 10th gen Recommended washing technique? C59B88DD-7ABE-4563-82EF-7773F3F5FEA1

Pull back on the silver quick connect, then press onto the foam cannon fitting.

Honda Civic 10th gen Recommended washing technique? 04A097B9-D3D5-4570-8709-EC1C72EB2810

And release. Now you should be good to go. Pretty sure the black plastic knob on top adjusts the amount of soap used when spraying. The nozzle on right adjusts the spray pattern, wide or narrow.

The thing that I am having trouble with is that all of the parts that screw into the holes in the foam Cannon to assemble it, they don't screw in all the way and I'm confused by it. I'm using a wrench to tighten it down as much as I can but it seriously feels like it's made for the wrong Cannon. The one I got was posted early on in this forum.

20191021_205954.jpg


Screenshot_20191022-170309_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
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godsmacksully

godsmacksully

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Hey there godsmacksully,
Sorry to read you are having trouble. I have the exact same SGS28 and PF22 Foam Cannon setup so hopefully this helps:

DD84A421-6B87-477C-B958-3491B7E2015F.jpeg

Here is the Foam Cannon. The silver quick connect fitting on the upper left should be installed and tightened using a wrench. It needs to have white Teflon tape wrapped on the threads before you install it, to prevent leaks. Everything is clockwise to tighten, so you wrap the Teflon tape counterclockwise (opposite direction) so it doesn’t unravel when you are threading in the fitting.

Foam sprays from the black plastic nozzle on the right. By turning it, the spray pattern adjusts from narrow to wide.

2802E712-FE1E-4139-9D6E-EC84C2C91236.jpeg

Unscrew the Cannon top from the bottle to add car shampoo. Dilute and add water to the shampoo instructions.

F9B964E5-454B-4ED6-93C7-77F5FCDA3B47.jpeg

Here is the SGS28 gun with silver quick connect and green spray nozzle installed. For washing cars only use 40 degree or 25 degree nozzles. I use 25.

DCE526B1-EFAD-4B87-9783-331B5EC6D355.jpeg

When ready to use the foam cannon, remove the green spray nozzle by pulling back on the silver quick disconnect...

536C77FB-4FD2-49C5-8819-638118E1578C.jpeg

Then pull the spray nozzle off.

7823E39B-4602-49AF-9378-81D031CA61C6.jpeg

Now you are ready to attach the SGS28 gun to the foam cannon.

C59B88DD-7ABE-4563-82EF-7773F3F5FEA1.jpeg

Pull back on the silver quick connect, then press onto the foam cannon fitting.

04A097B9-D3D5-4570-8709-EC1C72EB2810.jpeg

And release. Now you should be good to go. Pretty sure the black plastic knob on top adjusts the amount of soap used when spraying. The nozzle on right adjusts the spray pattern, wide or narrow.
What I was stuck on is that they wouldn't screw in all the way. It's together, but not screwed in all the way. The Amazon Seller said this was normal
 

fatherpain

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Ah ok. Yes the fittings will only screw in so far.. have you been able to use the pressure washer and foam cannon to wash your car?

What I was stuck on is that they wouldn't screw in all the way. It's together, but not screwed in all the way. The Amazon Seller said this was normal
 

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Did you wrap the connections with that white tape so as to prevent leaks, both on the canon as well the the handle.
 


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godsmacksully

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Here is how I personally wash my car using a 3 bucket method.

1 bucket with grit guard for rinse
1 bucket with grit guard for soap
1 bucket for wheels only

Tools needed: pressure washer, foam cannon, soap, multiple wash mitts, wheel/tire brushes, multiple MF towels for drying, and a drying aid.

1. I start with cleaning the wheels. I use Sonax Full Effect wheel cleaner. I spray on, agitate, rinse off. Do this on all 4 wheels using the wheel bucket only.
2. Rinse rest of the vehicle with a pressure washer to knock off loose dirt.
3. Foam cannon the whole car and let sit for 3-5 minutes.
4. Rinse again.
5. Wash vehicle from top to bottom. Preferably out of direct sunlight. Washing in straight lines and with light pressure. Use a different wash mitt for really dirty areas like the fender arches and lower rockers.
6. Rinse thoroughly. It helps if you have a filtration system for your water otherwise you can get water spots. I use a Camco filter.
7. Drying using really high quality MF towels and a drying aid. Most swirls are caused by improper drying technique. The best solution for drying is using an air dryer, though this is pricey.

Tips for drying: lay towel flat and blot the water, lightly drag the towel in straight lines using only the weight of the towel, make sure a drying aid is applied to help the towel absorb water without being abrasive to the surface. Do no mix your MF towels for other purposes. Wheel towels are for wheels and drying is for drying. Improper maintenance of your MF towels will cause them to be abrasive and actually mar the paint even if your washing technique is correct. It is important to have multiple different towels for different purposes.
I do mine the exactly the same way. :bow:

If I'm low on time, I skip the foaming and just use a strong flow of water to loosen the dirt on the body.
 

polishedmetalctr

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Here is the easiest and safest way to clean your car. I have been a detailer for a long time and tried all the different methods, after hundreds if not thousands of washes I prefer this way:

-Find a good spray wash car wash, where you spray it yourself. Start with pre soak, then high pressure soap, followed by high pressure rinse. Make sure you get really close to the wheels with the wand to clean them. Finish with spot free rinse if you want.
-Wipe off the car with a Griot’s Garage large drying towel, which does not scratch. Use smaller microfibers on the wheels.

I don’t get nearly any scratches with this method. Mitting almost always leaves swirls, I will only mit the car if it is totally destroyed and I will be buffing it after anyway. But if you do the above method weekly and use Meguiar’s Cleaner Wax at least quarterly, you will never need to buff it. Also
wax your wheels so they clean easier!
 

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About every week or ten days depending on the weather, hand wash with a pressure washer. I use no buckets and no mitts, except for the wheels. The CTR is a small car so this takes only about an hour:

Wash the wheels first:

Mine are coated with Adams ceramic. It doesn’t prevent brake dust accumulation, but it does help the dust come off much more easily, worth the upfront bucks to get it going and then respray with Ceramic Boost every four washes, or so. I coated 2 sets of OEM wheels from one kit and still have some left.

For cleaning wheels, I use Aero Cosmetics Wash Wax All (pink). Because it’s an aircraft product it's gentle on paint and bare surfaces, but effective. 2 to 4 ounces does all four wheels. I spray it on straight, no pre-rinse, then gently agitate in the barrels with a deep-reach microfiber wheel brush. That is key at it mixes the product with the dust and liquifies everything.

On the wheel spokes I agitate with the microfiber brush and a microfiber glove, not a mitt, that allows manually getting around all surfaces of the spokes.

Rinse the wheels with the yellow orifice on my low power, 1500 psi, Greenworks electric power washer.

Give the wheels a final wipe down after the rest of the car has been washed.

Wash the body:

If obvious dirt accumulation on the surface, a pre-rinse with the green orifice in the power washer to get the loose dirt off, otherwise right to foam. A foam gun, not a foam cannon, as my machine does not have enough flow, only 1.2 gallons per minute, too little to supply a foam cannon.

I use a fairly heavy solution of Meguiar’s Gold Class Car Wash in the gun and about every third or fourth time, Meguiar’s Ultimate Wash & Wax.

With any cleaner, let the foam stand for a minute or more and power rinse it well with the green orifice.

Towel lightly with a large heavy-duty absorbent microfiber towel, strictly a straight -line draw, no pressure on the towel and no rotation.

Dry the door jambs, around the hatch, wing, mirrors etc. with smaller absorbent microfiber towels to ensure that they are clean and dry to prevent weeping of leftover water onto adjacent surfaces.

Give the wheels a final wipe down.

Twice a year, spring and fall, done over several days:

Wash with Meguiar’s Wash Plus using a circular motion as directed. It has a mild compound in it and removes any old wax. You’ll see that when you rinse it. The water will sheet off the surface, rather than standing.

Next, I use Meguiar’s Ultimate Paste Wax, which is a synthetic finish that bonds with the paint and seals it.

After 24 hours or more, rinse and gently dry the surface, and apply a coat or two of natural carnauba wax. I use Mother’s, but it can be any brand of good quality. That will give the appearance of deep shine that synthetics don’t.

I then go to a local brushless carwash and buy their top package, that includes undercarriage wash and sealing, and ‘hot carnauba wax’ at the end, which may or may not have any value, but probably doesn’t hurt anything. I bring my microfiber towels to wipe all of that that down immediately when I exit.

This may sound like a commercial for specific products, but it’s not. It’s about the process, which is primarily hands-off at home using relatively inexpensive and easy to obtain consumer-level, not professional, equipment and products. These products have worked for me, but you should use whatever works for you.
 
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VTecYoSelfB4UWreckYoSelf

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I found that if I did a good ceramic coating after getting the paint perfect with a clay bar and buffing, as long as I hand wash with all micro fiber products I have no issues. My first problem was washing the car when it was like 30 degrees out that left spots galore. I am planning on redoing my ceramic coating this fall since it was a one year application.
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