Questions about deg(IGN) reading

TrippyPancakes

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I have a very small understanding of all these readings so my apologies ahead of time if I am just super confused or uninformed.

I just recently tuned my car and have been using the tunerview app to watch different values. One that has stuck out to me most is the deg(IGN) value as it is my understanding this should almost always be a positive value but I am very frequently seeing negative values. Is this bad? And if not would anyone be willing to explain to me how the heck to properly read that parameter?

Thanks!

Bonus question: What parameters does everyone find to most helpful to view on their tunerview/other parameter viewing devices?
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I have a very small understanding of all these readings so my apologies ahead of time if I am just super confused or uninformed.

I just recently tuned my car and have been using the tunerview app to watch different values. One that has stuck out to me most is the deg(IGN) value as it is my understanding this should almost always be a positive value but I am very frequently seeing negative values. Is this bad? And if not would anyone be willing to explain to me how the heck to properly read that parameter?

Thanks!

Bonus question: What parameters does everyone find to most helpful to view on their tunerview/other parameter viewing devices?
"ACTUAL IGNITION" is the parameter to look at for timing numbers. These should be floating around 0-3 normally at full load with most "canned tunes". These cars also primarily use ignition lead time to adjust idle rpm so this will vary a lot dependent on conditions but also rests right around zero when happy. Cruising is usually 27-40+.

With a stock boost table its 5-6 degrees ignition advance at full load.
 
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My Parameters to view on my "dash" I look for actual afr reading, map (manifold pressure-this is the boost that is actually entering the engine), actual ignition, coolant temp, short and long term trim, intake temperature (iat1+iat2)- I also look at afr command and mass airflow numbers but these last two are not really useful to most users.
 
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TrippyPancakes

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"ACTUAL IGNITION" is the parameter to look at for timing numbers. These should be floating around 0-3 normally at full load with most "canned tunes". These cars also primarily use ignition lead time to adjust idle rpm so this will vary a lot dependent on conditions but also rests right around zero when happy. Cruising is usually 27-40+.

With a stock boost table its 5-6 degrees ignition advance at full load.
I don't see an actual ignition option on my application, just "ignition". I see CAM Actual and CAM EX Actual, could that be my version of actual ignition?
 

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I don't see an actual ignition option on my application, just "ignition". I see CAM Actual and CAM EX Actual, could that be my version of actual ignition?
I was referring to the sensor list readout within the program.
 


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TrippyPancakes

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I was referring to the sensor list readout within the program.
Ahh gotcha, follow up question for you since you seem to know your stuff.

What values are you seeing for your fuel trims? My short term floats around -5% and will spike to -12% at times and my long term sits at around -7%. From what I read online these aren't exactly desirable numbers for fuel trims as you want them close to 0% and double digits tend to be bad.
 

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Ahh gotcha, follow up question for you since you seem to know your stuff.

What values are you seeing for your fuel trims? My short term floats around -5% and will spike to -12% at times and my long term sits at around -7%. From what I read online these aren't exactly desirable numbers for fuel trims as you want them close to 0% and double digits tend to be bad.
Assuming a stock car (stock intake setup and filter) those numbers seem normal. What I have found is that I have to remove almost 8% of the low end of the maf scaling to get trims to be less negative and floating aorund zero but this is very specific to my car and its setup.

Another cvt owner posted recently both his trims were -7 as well but he had significant changes with bolt ons.

I would just keep an eye on it. Depending on where your at in the country the ecu more than likely adjusted fueling "behind the scenes" based on temperature. Cold outside temps would be +trims generally. When the same car starts to be driven in higher temperatures the trims will be compensating against the + trim until the ecu decides its happy.
 
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TrippyPancakes

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Added questions about fuel trim as a new thread
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