PSA - DO NOT FLASH TO STOCK RIGHT BEFORE SMOG

ne0guri

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So my smog was rejected because I flashed back to stock before going to get tested.

DO NOT FLASH YOUR CAR EVER, RIGHT BEFORE THE SMOG TEST!!!

As I was flashing back to stock, I saw that it was “erasing” and immediately had a feeling I would get rejected because all the ecu stuff gets deleted. So now I have to drive around for a week and then pay another $20 to get retested. I’m sure this was common knowledge to most of you but obviously not for me. Hopefully someone in the same boat as me reads this and avoids this mistake.

It’s annoying because my friend had a OBD2 tester and it passed the other day even with the tune! I’m such an idiot for “playing it safe.”
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gtman

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This is news to me. Flashing back to stock gives you the factory tune. Why exactly did they say you didn't pass? And why do you think you have to drive around for a week?
 

amirza786

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So my smog was rejected because I flashed back to stock before going to get tested.

DO NOT FLASH YOUR CAR EVER, RIGHT BEFORE THE SMOG TEST!!!

As soon as I saw that it was “erasing,” immediately had a feeling I would get rejected because all the ecu stuff gets deleted. So now I have to drive around for a week and then pay another $20 to get retested. I’m sure this was common knowledge to most of you but obviously not for me. Hopefully someone in the same boat as me reads this and avoids this mistake.

It’s annoying because my friend had a OBD2 tester and it passed the other day even with the tune! I’m such an idiot for “playing it safe.”
Can you elaborate on this a little? How did they know you reflashed? And why do you need to drive around for a week? I'm glad we don't have to get a smog test for 5 years in California
 
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ne0guri

ne0guri

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This is news to me. Flashing back to stock gives you the factory tune. Why exactly did they say you didn't pass? And why do you think you have to drive around for a week?
So it’s not that I “failed” it’s that all of the ECU data gets erased when flashing to another tune whether that is factory or something else (ie TSP or Ktuner OTS). Because this data gets erased the Smog people when they plug their sensors, the test comes out as “Not Set or Unset” because the data was cleared.

The week thing was a bit of an exaggeration. But I do have to follow a specific “drive cycle” for the car to collect all the necessary data. This is what I’ve read so far:

https://www.google.com/amp/s/repairpal.com/how-to-perform-a-basic-drive-cycle.amp

https://antiochstarsmogcheck.com/honda-acura-drive-cycle/

https://m.smogtips.com/OnlineForumQ...tion_ID=3687&Question=Honda-Pilot-Drive-Cycle
 

TypeSiR

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Yeah, I wouldn't flash back to stock right before smog either. I'd drive around for a day at least. OTOH, do you have other emissions-related mods? I flashed mine (Hondata) back to stock and drove a few miles before smog and passed, with an aftermarket intercooler even. I avoided other emissions-related mods precisely because I don't want to deal with uninstalling everything before smog (in Calif).
 


gtman

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Honestly (we CARB test in MD but I haven't had a test yet) I don't see why you wouldn't pass tuned as long as you haven't deleted or altered any emissions related parts. What parameters would a tune change that would increase emissions?
 
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ne0guri

ne0guri

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Yeah, I wouldn't flash back to stock right before smog either. I'd drive around for a day at least. OTOH, do you have other emissions-related mods? I flashed mine (Hondata) back to stock and drove a few miles before smog and passed, with an aftermarket intercooler even. I avoided other emissions-related mods precisely because I don't want to deal with uninstalling everything before smog (in Calif).
Well I’m in Vegas so no CARB testing here I believe. I have a catted Downpipe, Frontpipe, Exhaust, and cold air intake (street). Like I mentioned, my friend had a scanner tool and I passed on that with my tune installed. I should have just done the smog with the tune and go from there.
 
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ne0guri

ne0guri

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Honestly (we smog test in MD but I haven't had a smog test yet) I don't see why you wouldn't pass tuned as long as you haven't deleted any emissions equipment. What parameters would a tube change that would increase emissions?
Yeah this was my mistake. I already knew I should have passed even with the tune because all of my parts are “street” versions so it shouldn’t impact emissions. It just got rejected because there literally was no data to test because it was all erased when I flashed back to stock.
 

TypeSiR

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How many miles between the flash and failed smog? Just trying to understand how this affects smog test for future reference.
 
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ne0guri

ne0guri

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How many miles between the flash and failed smog? Just trying to understand how this affects smog test for future reference.
Lol maybe not even 1...

I definitely fucked up and clearly didn’t think all this through before going in... just have to accept the shame :oops:
 


TypeSiR

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Lol maybe not even 1...

I definitely fucked up and clearly didn’t think all this through before going in... just have to accept the shame :oops:
Thanks, there's no shame. This helps us understand how flashing a ECU affects smog test. In this case it makes sense there's no data (or very little data) to read by the smog equipment as the ECU was just erased (returned to stock). Yeah, driving a few miles should fix that.
 

bluehatch17

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Could have said just had the Honda recall. The dealer set it to stock.
 

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Obligatory "I found this on the internet so it must be true" https://antiochstarsmogcheck.com/honda-acura-drive-cycle/

The Honda Drive Cycle is included in recent owners manuals. Additionally, Honda and Acura will indicate, on vehicle startup of the readiness monitors are set. When you turn the ignition to On-2 without starting the engine, the MIL will come on for 20 seconds. If the MIL turn off again, then the readiness monitors are set. If they blinks five times, the readiness monitors are not set and you need to conduct the Honda Acura Drive Cycle for smog check readiness.

Prerequisite: The gas tank should be 3/4 full and the vehicle has been stopped with the motor off for 6 hours or more. Ensure the air temperature is approximately 40° and 95°F.

  1. Start the motor and keep the car idle for 20 seconds. Don’t touch the accelerator.
  2. Rev the engine to 2000 RPM for 3 minutes. The temperature should be at 1/3 of the scale or higher.
  3. Idle for 20 seconds again.
  4. Go to a highway and drive between 50-60mph for 20 minutes. You should be in D or 5th gear. Don’t utilize cruise control. At some point in the journey, coast for 90 seconds (take your foot off the accelerator).
  5. Conduct city driving for 10 minutes, and during this time, perform some coasting.
  6. Once completed, let the vehicle turn off and sit for 30 minutes with the engine off.
 

TypeSiR

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^^^ MIL = malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). Had to look it up because I had something else in mind. Thanks.
 


 


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