1.5T PRL Motorsports Cobra CAI Install

For anyone wondering, here is our installation writeup for our 1.5T Cobra CAI. This intake system fits both Si and Non-Si 1.5L Turbo Civic applications.



Tools Needed:
Ratchet
10mm socket
8mm socket
Extension
10mm wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips-head screwdriver
3mm hex-key / Allen wrench
5mm hex-key / Allen wrench

Torque Specs:
M6 bolts = 120 inch/lbs

We recommend raising the front end of the car at 18-24" off the ground for comfort.


Remove the two Phillips-head screws towards the front lower half of the wheel-well that attach the bumper to the inner fender liner.


Remove these two 10mm bolts that hold the undershieding on.



Remove these two clips by popping the middle circular clip with a flathead screwdriver.


Remove this plastic clip in the same fashion as the last two.


Pull the undershield/inner fender liner back towards front wheel to expose the area behind the bumper.


Remove the two Phillips-head scews that attach the MAF sensor to the MAF housing. Apply pressure to the screws with the screwdriver to avoid rounding out and stripping the heads of the screws.


Pop the wiring harness clip from the upper air box by pushing both sides in with a flathead screwdriver.




Once this is removed, set the MAF sensor and harness aside for later use.


Loosen both clamps and remove the air hose.


Loosen the four bolts/scews and remove the upper air box cover.


Remove the air filter.



Loosen the two 10mm Bolts and push the lower air box piece towards the front of the car to separate it from the dampener's rubber nipple below.


Remove the two 10mm bolts that attach the lower air box bracket to the chassis



You should now see the dampener below where the air box unit once was. We already had this removed for our FMIC piping, so we do not have this. The unit goes together like followed:



Remove the two 10mm bolts to remove the dampener. It is a rather tight fit, so it will take some fighting and angling, but this can be removed.


Remove the 10mm bolt that attaches the factory clutch line bracket to the chassis. You will notice that the bracket has a locating tab.


Install the billet clutch line relocation bracket with the supplied M6x16 socket head cap screw using the locating tab. Attach the factory clutch line to the relocation bracket using a supplied M6x12 flange bolt using the locating tab.





Loosely attach the lower bracket to the bottom of the rotomolded intake piece with two M6x12 bolts. Do not put the filter on yet, as installation is much easier without this attached. We only have the filter on for location reference.




Loosely attach the lower bracket to the chassis with two M6x16 bolts. One bolt will be threaded to the chassis. The other will be threaded through the untapped square hole into the nylock nut behind this.




Loosely attach the upper bracket to the rotomolded intake piece with an M6x12 bolt and loosely attach the bracket to the chassis with two M6x12 bolts.


Loosely attach the 4" silicone hose to the rotomolded intake piece with both 4" clamps oriented in an accessable area.


Loosely attach the upper intake hose to the billet MAF sensor housing with the radius of the hose angled up.



Loosely attach the 4" side of the billet MAF sensor housing to the 4" silicone hose and finish attaching the connected assembly to the factory black plastic intake pipe.


Locate the rotomolded intake piece with your hand while checking for fitment. Once fitment is as desired, the brackets can be tightened down starting with the lower bracket. Rotate any silicone hoses if needed and tighten all clamps. Be sure that silicone connections are butted against their designated receiving grooves for optimal airflow.


Attach the MAF sensor to the billet MAF sensor housing using the two supplied M4x8 socket head cap screws. Do not over tighten the M4 SHCS bolts, as these only need to be snug.

Attach the air filter to the rotomolded intake piece.


Push the undershield/inner fender liner back in place and attach all plastic clips and 10mm screws that were removed.


Lower the car back onto the ground and check for any loose connections.


Street MAF housings do NOT require custom ECU tuning. Race MAF sensor housings require custom ECU tuning due to its 50% increase in size over factory.

 

Great guide. I think a lot of us are looking forward to this product!

 

Thanks for the write up can wait to hear how this intake sounds in person!!

 

You guys are the best! Now I can visualize the installation for he next few weeks until it actually arrives!

 

On that note, how does it sound @PRL Motorsports?

 

Sounds awesome, you can really hear the car now and especially the turbo. We have some clips on our facebook page and instagram.

http://prlmotorsports.com/civicxcoldairintake.aspx#.WfCksFWnGUk video in product description.

 

As always, @PRL Motorsports is on top of the game!! Thanks for the write up....cant wait to get this and the FMIC

 

Can’t wait to get mine, hopefully one of the first shipped .

 

Awesome write up guys. Can't wait to pick mine up.

 

Awesome! I can't wait till mine arrives.

 

The Quality of this intake is on another level!!@PRL Motorsports Glad I have mine on order

 

If you want a intake that is actually going to produce power, this is the one.

 

Awesome@PRL how long did it take to reassemble and assemble ?

 

If you have all the tools required, you can get the job done in 45mins to an hour. If you know the 10 gen like the back of your hand, 25-30 mins.

 

Not bad im not to mechanically inclined so it will probally be all day for me lol