Phase 1 of my audio upgrade. (Updated, phase 3) 18HB Sport

[jrschultz]

To clarify - You used the fronts for the sub source? Your original post said you used the rear so that when you fade to the front it gives less sub output. I was thinking of using the rear for sub source set to flat for initial set up. I'd boost the sub gain a little more than I need for a lot of bass, but fade to the front for normal listening. I thought that might work out well, because fading to the front keeps the mids and highs near the driver, but the sub will decrease. Fading to flat would still keep the same mids and highs for the driver, but increase sub volume. I hope I'm making sense.

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[SCOPESYS]

To clarify - You used the fronts for the sub source? Your original post said you used the rear so that when you fade to the front it gives less sub output. I was thinking of using the rear for sub source set to flat for initial set up. I'd boost the sub gain a little more than I need for a lot of bass, but fade to the front for normal listening. I thought that might work out well, because fading to the front keeps the mids and highs near the driver, but the sub will decrease. Fading to flat would still keep the same mids and highs for the driver, but increase sub volume. I hope I'm making sense.

Front has way more LOW FREQUENCY than rear. so far better to use FRONT as the source for your bass filer and SUB amp.

 

[jrschultz]

Well...that's interesting. Was this test done off of the LX/Sport base stereo or the "premium" stereo? Are they the same?

 

[Rycomm]

If I said I did the rears originally, that's probably correct. I thought I went to the front to get a better signal, if it matters in the base radio. I've worked on many other vehicles since I did my Civic, so things get confused.

Today I worked on a Dodge Challenger that had the factory Alpine system. It had a powered 2-12" preloaded box in the trunk. The owner was complaining that the bass knob didn't seem to do anything. After a quick listen, I agreed and didn't think the subs were doing anything. This car didn't have a factory sub. Whoever originally installed the sub tied the high level inputs into the rear deck speakers. On the Alpine system the rear deck speakers are just rear fill, and not full range. After hooking the high level inputs to the front outputs from the factory amp it completely changed the output of the subs. I had to re adjust the amp gain and crossover (both were up all the way). The owner was completely amazed by the difference. He didn't know how much he was missing. The original work was done by a retail shop by a fairly experienced installer.

All that to say, the outputs vary by vehicle and trim level. Always use the best signal available. It may not matter much in the base system, but it can make huge difference in some situations. This is why I got a DSP that does signal summing. I'm very curious the impact it will make in my Civic.

 

[Bru87tr]

I have an LX with 4 speaker base radio.

I tapped off my rear speakers to LC2i and my sub pounds hard.

I will admit with the factory speakers the fronts had more bass, but the back speakers had no power, hardly any volume output and distorted easily.

That being said, I went rear speaker line to LC2i to AMP to speakers & LC2i to sub. The rear speakers alone kick hard now and have tons of bass. Then added a JBL sub, it is very hard hitting bass.

In the end I think the LC2i is doing the job of restoring bass. I dont feel like I am missing out on any bass.

 

[SCOPESYS]

Well...that's interesting. Was this test done off of the LX/Sport base stereo or the "premium" stereo? Are they the same?

Premium --- Unfortunately there is no official data to tell what actual equalization Honda put into each car model's DSP, but it would seem they adjusted the equalization for the best response they could get in the car with a Microphone, and using the CHEAP/CRAP speakers that they fit. When you fit decent speakers, that all changes !!!

 

[leaat23]

I got a 4 and 8 awg cable through the large grommet at the back of the battery, silicone lubricant is a must as it really help getting cables through.

Whilst setting up the Audison Bit Nove it does a EQ curve scan of all the channels available to it, there was quite a drop off under 80hz on the mids but thankfully it restored the low end bass, it's a very clever piece of kit with lots of functionality some of it I'm yet to try out via the laptop. It sound great as it is to me so little messing around is needed.

 

[jrschultz]

I went with the OP's original idea of splicing into the rear speakers for signal for my subwoofer. This does work well, because the fade acts as a subwoofer volume of sorts. I adjusted the level of the amp higher than I would normally like for "show off" moments, but I find myself typically fading +2 towards the front for usual listening. It works well on the LX/Sport. I'm assuming this wouldn't work as well on the "premium" stereo.

 

[Soamazen23]

I went with the OP's original idea of splicing into the rear speakers for signal for my subwoofer. This does work well, because the fade acts as a subwoofer volume of sorts. I adjusted the level of the amp higher than I would normally like for "show off" moments, but I find myself typically fading +2 towards the front for usual listening. It works well on the LX/Sport. I'm assuming this wouldn't work as well on the "premium" stereo.

Question. How did you know which wire for the rear speakers are for the mids?
There is 4 wires per connector. On the left its two white wires and two blue ones. On the right its two brown ones and two yellow ones. Pretty sure its postive and negative for mids and highs. Wondering if theres an easier way than taking out the HU and ohming out wires

 

[jrschultz]

Question. How did you know which wire for the rear speakers are for the mids?
There is 4 wires per connector. On the left its two white wires and two blue ones. On the right its two brown ones and two yellow ones. Pretty sure its postive and negative for mids and highs. Wondering if theres an easier way than taking out the HU and ohming out wires

I made all of my connections behind the head unit. The LX/Sport is also quite basic. There's only one set of wires per speaker..

 

[Rycomm]

It's been a slow process trying to finish this project. Today my plug and play t harness arrived. It is a Metra/ Axxess AX-DSP-HON2. I'd previously tried using a Metra 70/71 style harness, but there were too many pins missing on the 70 side. I've seen where someone had borrowed pins from another harness and populated the connector. I wanted to keep the standard wiring colors, and with this harness, both sides of the connector was ready to go. It does have the harness that is intended to go to the Axxess DSP. I considered using that model, but ended up with the AudioControl DSP/EQ. I cut off the lead for the DSP and insulated the wires. It's now ready for a couple lengths of 9 conductor speed wire to be ran to the DSP and from the amp.
Hopefully I'll have an update soon.

First pic is how it came out of the box.
Second one is after cutting the non used DSP part off.

 

[kperalta]

Like OP said in some cars the rear speakers are just used for rear fill, and don't send all the frequencies to them. On some cars the rear speakers receive full range, but if they're rear deck the factory bass roll-off affects the rears the most. I've even tapped high level for the rear speakers without an LC2i and they hit just fine, but I'm sure if I would've taken an RTA to it you'd notice the 30-60hz (not that the speakers can reproduce the lowest of freq) range being reduced as the volume goes up.

Honestly the best way to eliminate bass roll-off is to get aftermarket deck, and I'd rather take the 100 I'd spend on an LC2i and spend it on a radio (then again I don't pay full price for some things) but these Audio Control products have intergration tools for a reason .

It's been a slow process trying to finish this project. Today my plug and play t harness arrived. It is a Metra/ Axxess AX-DSP-HON2. I'd previously tried using a Metra 70/71 style harness, but there were too many pins missing on the 70 side. I've seen where someone had borrowed pins from another harness and populated the connector. I wanted to keep the standard wiring colors, and with this harness, both sides of the connector was ready to go. It does have the harness that is intended to go to the Axxess DSP. I considered using that model, but ended up with the AudioControl DSP/EQ. I cut off the lead for the DSP and insulated the wires. It's now ready for a couple lengths of 9 conductor speed wire to be ran to the DSP and from the amp.
Hopefully I'll have an update soon.

First pic is how it came out of the box.
Second one is after cutting the non used DSP part off.

God how I wish the touring didn't have a digital output

 

[Rycomm]

If would have been much easier and less expensive to swap the radio for an aftermarket unit. I did this for a challenge to do a complete OEM integration and keep everything looking original, but sounding awesome.

 

[kperalta]

If would have been much easier and less expensive to swap the radio for an aftermarket unit. I did this for a challenge to do a complete OEM integration and keeping everything looking original, but sounding awesome.

I can respek it

 

[Rycomm]

The weather and my schedule cooperated today for me to get the DSP and 4 channel amp hooked up and working. I used two runs of 9 conductor "speed wire" from the radio to the DSP, and from the amp back to the factory harness to the speakers. I ran it down the passenger side. Everything came apart and went back together in typical Honda manner. I decided to use the accessory output for the remote/amp turn on. The AudioControl equipment I am using all have "Great Turn On" current sending that has always worked well, but the wire was there in the harness and was just as easy to use as not. I tested to make sure everything came on and worked, then cleaned up some of the wire routing and secured everything in place. I did some basic setting of the amp and DSP and put everything back together. It took a little over two hours. After listening/driving a bit, I made some minor adjustments. The DQ61 has a bypass mode that takes everything it does out to do some easy comparing. The difference it makes is not subtle. Sounds kinda flat and dull with everything bypass, but very full and "alive" with it engaged. Right now the remote "bass" knob (it has many functions in the DSP) is in the glove box. Not sure if I need to mount it somewhere else. I'm usually a "a set it and leave it" type of person.
Only thing left is to install the front door speakers. I'm sure that will be well worth the effort. Just need to order some new door sail/tweeter panels.