Official FK8 Civic Type R Carbon Fiber Rock Flaps (by Oldskoolfab Inc)

keiothic

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Do the two plastic pins for the front flaps on the top of the front fender well area get pried off?
Most likely you going to have to convert them into screw-based fasteners as @bouford described in his post here.
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Most likely you going to have to convert them into screw-based fasteners as @bouford described in his post here.
So to clarify, all 5 screw holes on each of the front flaps should get the screws mentioned in his post? Because it looks like the push pins won't go through the holes in the flaps.

EDIT: the top two holes won't take screws, as they are huge and meant for the push pins. Do you have any pics available of how the flaps look from the side with the screws? I know that it's not a pretty angle, but at this stage I'm just guessing on how to install these
 

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I pulled the RallyArmour instructions, and they're talking about significantly more parts being needed than what was discussed in this thread. Would anyone who has installed these be willing to do a detailed write up with pictures? I'm putting things back together for now until I understand more.
 

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Yes, the top 2 holes won't accept screws, but you SHOULD convert them from push pin to screw-based fasteners using U type fastener clips.
Honda Civic 10th gen Official FK8 Civic Type R Carbon Fiber Rock Flaps (by Oldskoolfab Inc) 41zEr43ij0L._SX425_

Which is pictured in Bouford's post, though it was not shot in the location you were worrying about.
Honda Civic 10th gen Official FK8 Civic Type R Carbon Fiber Rock Flaps (by Oldskoolfab Inc) 108379

If you put these over the square 'holes' where the original push pin fasteners go, you can use screws instead of the push pins, which will provide a more secure mounting. If you look at the bottom 2 screws, they also use the U type fastener clip as well behind the black plastic assembly. I suppose if you want to keep using the plastic push pins, you can always always make bigger holes matching them, but good luck making square windows like what is already on the car.

And why are you looking at RA's manual? Their's is a completely different mounting system using additional metal brackets. This is a rock guard you secure using (mostly) original screws and placements. Any non-screw based spots, you convert to using screws and I can only think of 4 of them (2 on each front)
 
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Yes, the top 2 holes won't accept screws, but you SHOULD convert them from push pin to screw-based fasteners using U type fastener clips.
41zEr43ij0L._SX425_.jpg

Which is pictured in Bouford's post, though it was not shot in the location you were worrying about.
108379.jpg

If you put these over the square 'holes' where the original push pin fasteners go, you can use screws instead of the push pins, which will provide a more secure mounting. If you look at the bottom 2 screws, they also use the U type fastener clip as well behind the black plastic assembly. I suppose if you want to keep using the plastic push pins, you can always always make bigger holes matching them, but good luck making square windows like what is already on the car.

And why are you looking at RA's manual? Their's is a completely different mounting system using additional metal brackets. This is a sheet you secure over original screws. Any non-screw based spots, you convert to using screws and I can only think of 4 of them (2 on each front)
Thanks. So to clarify - based on Boufords post, I only purchased two of the U-Type fastener clips. I assumed that these were for the rear flaps (one for each side), as shown in his picture. It sounds like I now need 6 U-Clips: two for each front well and one for each rear well. Is that accurate?

I used the RallyArmour instructions because there were none available for these.
 


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Thanks. So to clarify - based on Boufords post, I only purchased two of the U-Type fastener clips. I assumed that these were for the rear flaps (one for each side), as shown in his picture. It sounds like I now need 6 U-Clips: two for each front well and one for each rear well. Is that accurate?

I used the RallyArmour instructions because there were none available for these.
My apologies on the number of u clips you'd need, I made my own guards so I am using less than what Bouford suggest and oldskoolfab provided (hole wise). I'll let them inform you more on that specifically. But your local AutoZone or similar shops should have these and purchasable in packs of 4, perhaps 6, perhaps 10. I can't remember. If you prefer Honda OEM parts, I can at least help you with their part numbers
Honda Civic 10th gen Official FK8 Civic Type R Carbon Fiber Rock Flaps (by Oldskoolfab Inc) upload_2019-5-22_18-21-49

Screw, Tapping (5X20) - Honda (90103-TA0-000)
Honda Civic 10th gen Official FK8 Civic Type R Carbon Fiber Rock Flaps (by Oldskoolfab Inc) upload_2019-5-22_18-22-14

Nut, Clip (6MM) - Honda (90305-SM4-003)
 

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My apologies on the number of u clips you'd need, I made my own guards so I am using less than what Bouford suggest and oldskoolfab provided (hole wise). I'll let them inform you more on that specifically. But your local AutoZone or similar shops should have these and purchasable in packs of 4, perhaps 6, perhaps 10. I can't remember. If you prefer Honda OEM parts, I can at least help you with their part numbers
upload_2019-5-22_18-21-49.png

Screw, Tapping (5X20) - Honda (90103-TA0-000)
upload_2019-5-22_18-22-14.png

Nut, Clip (6MM) - Honda (90305-SM4-003)
Thanks for the info. I have a huge bags of the screws, so I’ll just need to get more clips. Thanks again.
 
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Do the two plastic pins for the front flaps on the top of the front fender well area get pried off?
i left these in place and self tapping screw'd directly into them, torqued with #1 setting on my drill and hand tightened snug.
one doesn't need to convert any of the push pins into spring nuts as my flaps have taken multiple cone strikes at auto-x without any issues. gl!
 

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:stirthepot: Not again unko.
 

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i left these in place and self tapping screw'd directly into them, torqued with #1 setting on my drill and hand tightened snug.
one doesn't need to convert any of the push pins into spring nuts as my flaps have taken multiple cone strikes at auto-x without any issues. gl!
Thank you. Would you happen to have a picture of what it looks like with the screws drilled into the push tabs?
 


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Thank you. Would you happen to have a picture of what it looks like with the screws drilled into the push tabs?
i don't but there is a picture of them on page 1
 

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i don't but there is a picture of them on page 1
Thanks, drilling through the plastic push pins worked perfectly. For the moment, I have the rear attached with the top two screws and a small piece of double sided foam tape on the bottom of each side. Would you be willing to share the details of the method that you used for drilling the holes in the frame and attaching the clips? I can see the tape from certain angles and I'm not a fan of how it looks.
 
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Thanks, drilling through the plastic push pins worked perfectly. For the moment, I have the rear attached with the top two screws and a small piece of double sided foam tape on the bottom of each side. Would you be willing to share the details of the method that you used for drilling the holes in the frame and attaching the clips? I can see the tape from certain angles and I'm not a fan of how it looks.
drill a small pilot hole, widen spring nut as needed, clamp spring nut snug with pliers, install tapping screw as noted before. gl!
 

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drill a small pilot hole, widen spring nut as needed, clamp spring nut snug with pliers, install tapping screw as noted before. gl!
Thanks! Any advice for making sure that I don't crack the body where I drill? Did you drill really slowly?
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