Non-crossdrilled rotors?

[RacingManiac]

Curious what options are there for "plain" rotors for the Type R. Crossdrilled rotors gets micro cracks pretty quickly. Centric which is what I normally buy for OEM replacement only sells drilled version for this car. I know there are Girodisc for $800 in 2-piece slotted config but I am wondering if there are just plain single piece rotors for this car? I'd be probably using them just for track use.

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[RStoR]

Advanced Auto Parts lists a WBR Run True Coated Std Rotor, part# N1000669566WBC, for $57.42 ea.

 

[willimo]

I'm amazed that Centric or Stoptech haven't come out with blank or just slotted rotors yet. I'm not into spending $800 on a pair of rotors, but like you, really don't like drilled rotors.

 

[RacingManiac]

I think the advanced auto ones might work fine for this. I will look into that if I do decide to track more....

 

[racer]

The reason the car has cross drilled rotors is for track use. Going backwards to a non-slotted or cross drilled disc will cause more heat soak issues and likely reduce performance. The micro cracks are not a big deal. They only become an issue when you can see cracks linking the holes together.. then its time to replace.

 

[RacingManiac]

You can go into the pros and cons of cross drilled rotors all day long. But hint you won't find that on any race cars. Companies do it for many reasons but bottomline is its neither necessary nor desirable to have drilled rotors with modern pads.

 

[willimo]

The reason the car has cross drilled rotors is for track use. Going backwards to a non-slotted or cross drilled disc will cause more heat soak issues and likely reduce performance. The micro cracks are not a big deal. They only become an issue when you can see cracks linking the holes together.. then its time to replace.

Erm. I don't think going to slotted/blank rotors is going backward. As RacingManiac posted, you're not going to find a lot of race cars with drilled or even slotted rotors. In the end, what it comes down to is that any decrease in the contact area between the pad and the rotor decreases brake performance, and there are other and better ways to dissipate that heat.

But when I saw a Porsche 959 in person, and it had cracks around all of the holes. If Porsche couldn't get it right on their most super top end car, who can? And sorry, I don't buy cracks not being a big deal. Anything with a crack in it is a problem.

I like slotted because I like the look - and since I saw that Porsche I've never liked the look of cross drilled rotors.

 

[racer]

https://www.frictionmaster.com/blog/drilled-vs-slotted-disc-brake-rotors/

 

[hobby-man]

The reason the car has cross drilled rotors is for track use. Going backwards to a non-slotted or cross drilled disc will cause more heat soak issues and likely reduce performance. The micro cracks are not a big deal. They only become an issue when you can see cracks linking the holes together.. then its time to replace.

https://www.frictionmaster.com/blog/drilled-vs-slotted-disc-brake-rotors/

"In the early days of racing, drilled rotors were an effective way of venting the layer of gas and dust that inevitably builds up between asbestos brake pads and the rotor under repeated, hard braking. However, as technology and brake pad materials have progressed, outgassing has become less and less of an issue. These days, while they still look great and perform well, the drill holes are more for aesthetic reasons than anything else. For performance driving, slotted rotors have become the preferred choice because cross drilled rotors are more prone to stress cracking under extreme use. Just take a look through the spokes on the wheel of any modern race car – there won’t be a drilled rotor in sight."'

What's your point again?

 

[racer]

What's your point?

a) I thought the link provided an easy review of brake rotor style choices and their pros and cons

b) The OP was asking about swapping out to "plain" rotor for track use. I think the OP would find better braking performance by not swapping out to "plain" rotors. Slotted? ok, sure.. and even keeping cross drilled? ok.

The last thing I want when I approach corners on a track is thinking "sure am glad I swapped over to the cheapest, least effective rotor out there" as brakes fade and I go off course... For track use, you want a system designed for the stresses and heat of repeated stops from high speeds. While the OP mentions a cosmetic concern of Cross Drilled rotors, they are still a good choice (and if on a type r, oem)

c) race car brakes are limited either by what the manufacturer supplied the car with or what the sanctioning bodies allow. Most high end race cars are using Carbon Ceramic rotors... some drilled, some not, and as you see as optional equipment on some street cars, add $5-10K for the pleasure.

 

[RacingManiac]

Rotor is not exactly the most intricately designed part of the system. There is nothing trick or magical about it. Heavy chunk of cast iron material clamped by 2 pieces of friction surfaces. I want something that will stand up to abuse and nothing having to worry about thermal induced failure like drilled rotors would. Its also not as if I am replacing the vented rotor with a solid one. As long as there is still airflow from inside to out side I won't be altering the thermal performance to any meaningful degree...

People who actually tracks a lot, with cars with carbon ceramics, often replace those with cast iron stuff because a)replacement cost and b) effectiveness really isn't compromised in the grand scheme of things.

I don't need an engineering lesson on how brakes work. I already know that. I was looking for alternatives and I think someone provided that.

 

[racer]

I was looking for alternatives and I think someone provided that.

Let us know how they work out for you!

 

[RacingManiac]

Will do

 

[fiachamp]

Agree with racing maniac. Not even F1 cars are running drilled rotors. I’ve run normal rotors on my track K24a2 DC5 for years - they work fine. No cracks. And tbh, the biggest difference in braking performance for that car has come from tires and higher friction pads

 

[Deleted member 21875]

so I just tracked the 2018 CTR this weekend and the OEM breaks are horribly soft. I knew immediately I would need a better replacement. I don't plan on the CTR being a dedicated track car but I anticipate 6-10 track days/year. Another CTR owner (who tracks it quite a bit) said the Carbotech pads are great. My question is should I replace the rotors when I put new pads on? Only have 1900 miles on the car. Thanks

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