New to Wheels and Need help!

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Hey!

I'm looking to buy a new wheel setup for my sport touring hatch but I'm a noob when it comes to this. I was wondering if JNC 006 18x8.5 +35mm would fit? I also plan to put on some Raceland coilovers on. Also, what would be the best tires size and lug nuts to go with it? I dont wanna have any rub so maybe I should go with a more conservative approach?
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pkxeon

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Wheels:
18x8.5 +35mm will be an almost exact flush fit with your fenders. I think 18x8.5 +38 will be an exact fit but unless you're looking closely and scrutinizing, you won't be able to see any kind of poke from most angles.

Tires:
I run 235/40R18 (stock size but Michelin PS4S) on the same 18x8.5 +35 and I notice that there's the slightest stretch to it (in my opinion). If I wanted to go for a straight tire sidewall I think on my next set of tires I will go for 245 or even 255 for beefiness. If you're lowering the car however, I think a 235/40 would be suitable so you don't rub on dips. Of course, this all just depends on how much you're lowering and what kind of look you're going for so you might want to get more opinions on this. There are a lot of pictures available in the gallery over at Fitment Industries that can give you an idea of the fitment you'll be getting.

Lugs:
Stock lugs are a ball seat with a 12x1.5 thread size. Almost all aftermarket wheels will require conical seat lugs (with the same 12x1.5 thread size). Beyond that, it is all just personal preference. Closed-ended lugs are preferred by many (vs open-ended) because they provide some protection from the elements. Ask whoever is installing your wheels to hand torque down (not impact wrench) to the stock lug torque of 80 ft-lbs.

Hub-centric rings:
You will likely need hub-centric rings to center your wheels onto your axle. A quick Google search tells me that the JNC 006s have a hub size of 73.10 (double-check before buying). The ST Hatch has a hub size of 64.10 so you will need hub-centric rings that have an OD (outer diameter) of 73.10 and ID (inner diameter) of 64.10 for the wheels to properly center on your axles. Aluminum vs polycarbonate (plastic) rings is a debate but I think it comes down to preference and projected usage. Plastic will resist corrosion/seizing but have a chance of melting if you decide to AutoX/track your car. Aluminum will be stronger and not melt, but have a slight chance of corroding onto your hub (which can be mitigated with a thin layer of anti-seize behind the rings).
 
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Entios

Entios

Member
First Name
Kris
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Threads
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16
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Location
California
Vehicle(s)
Sport Touring Hatch
Country flag
Wheels:
18x8.5 +35mm will be an almost exact flush fit with your fenders. I think 18x8.5 +38 will be an exact fit but unless you're looking closely and scrutinizing, you won't be able to see any kind of poke from most angles.

Tires:
I run 235/40R18 (stock size but Michelin PS4S) on the same 18x8.5 +35 and I notice that there's the slightest stretch to it (in my opinion). If I wanted to go for a straight tire sidewall I think on my next set of tires I will go for 245 or even 255 for beefiness. If you're lowering the car however, I think a 235/40 would be suitable so you don't rub on dips. Of course, this all just depends on how much you're lowering and what kind of look you're going for so you might want to get more opinions on this. There are a lot of pictures available in the gallery over at Fitment Industries that can give you an idea of the fitment you'll be getting.

Lugs:
Stock lugs are a ball seat with a 12x1.5 thread size. Almost all aftermarket wheels will require conical seat lugs (with the same 12x1.5 thread size). Beyond that, it is all just personal preference. Closed-ended lugs are preferred by many (vs open-ended) because they provide some protection from the elements. Ask whoever is installing your wheels to hand torque down (not impact wrench) to the stock lug torque of 80 ft-lbs.

Hub-centric rings:
You will likely need hub-centric rings to center your wheels onto your axle. A quick Google search tells me that the JNC 006s have a hub size of 73.10 (double-check before buying). The ST Hatch has a hub size of 64.10 so you will need hub-centric rings that have an OD (outer diameter) of 73.10 and ID (inner diameter) of 64.10 for the wheels to properly center on your axles. Aluminum vs polycarbonate (plastic) rings is a debate but I think it comes down to preference and projected usage. Plastic will resist corrosion/seizing but have a chance of melting if you decide to AutoX/track your car. Aluminum will be stronger and not melt, but have a slight chance of corroding onto your hub (which can be mitigated with a thin layer of anti-seize behind the rings).
Thanks so much this info will help a lot!
 

Doc_Mello

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Just to chime in, and get some info as well (also, open to being wrong about some things): after all of my research into which wheels sizes & tire sizes will/will not rub, I've decided to go with 18x8.5 +35 with 225/40/18s dropped on D2 springs. It seems that combination of wheel size, tries size, and drop does not result in any rubbing (short of full-lock hard turns, which I do not anticipate because I won't be AutoXing my Si).
 
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Entios

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Just to chime in, and get some info as well (also, open to being wrong about some things): after all of my research into which wheels sizes & tire sizes will/will not rub, I've decided to go with 8x8.5 +35 with 225/40/18s dropped on D2 springs. It seems that combination of wheel size, tries size, and drop does not result in any rubbing (short of full-lock hard turns, which I do not anticipate because I won't be AutoXing my Si).
Awesome man! I’m guessing you meant to put 18x8.5
 


MarshX

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Just to chime in, and get some info as well (also, open to being wrong about some things): after all of my research into which wheels sizes & tire sizes will/will not rub, I've decided to go with 18x8.5 +35 with 225/40/18s dropped on D2 springs. It seems that combination of wheel size, tries size, and drop does not result in any rubbing (short of full-lock hard turns, which I do not anticipate because I won't be AutoXing my Si).
Just for perspective, what kind, if any, rubbing might occur with simple tight u-turns with that specific setup? That setup looks to be a sweet spot. Although I would love for 18x9 but I’ll probably end up playing safe with the 18x8.5
 

Doc_Mello

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Just for perspective, what kind, if any, rubbing might occur with simple tight u-turns with that specific setup? That setup looks to be a sweet spot. Although I would love for 18x9 but I’ll probably end up playing safe with the 18x8.5
Yeah, I don’t know, but I would imagine that low-speed full-lock turns would not produce any rubbing.
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