Need opinion on price of 2019 R

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BoostedDreams

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Well guys, it didn't happen today. Apparently you can't get a good interest rate on Type R's through Honda financing. Best they offer is like 4.7% something. I was hoping to get $19,000 ish for my si (2018 14k miles), but since its modded and I don't have the stock wheels, they can't certify it. I took the ktuner and flex fuel off, but left the full exhaust on it because I don't have the means to remove it. Most they offered me for my trade was $17,600. I own $15,086. Problem was that I was hoping to be around $450/ month with $2,500 down, plus around $4,000 in positive equity. They had me around $560 ish for 74 months with $2,500 down. With $2,500 down at 84 months it was around $520-530 I don't remember exactly. Also, at 84 months honda doesn't do the finance and the interest is over 5%! I had to walk away unfortunately. I did go to Auto Buy on the way home and they offered me $18,000. I had to walk away again.

The only reason I am considering upgrading to the Type R is because I wouldn't need to mod it. I've dropped so much money into the Si I have a hard time letting it go for less than I am comfortable with. I literally had to replace the stock clutch with a Spec stage 2+ with a steel flywheel and its been nothing short of a nightmare. The clutch/flywheel alone was $930, install was $800. Then there was a high rpm "lock out" everyone was experiencing. The company suggested removing the CDV from the SMC, so I bought a spare and had a shop do it. It didn't help. I then did a bunch of acuity upgrades and added amsoil syncromesh and it didn't help. The company then released a Wilwood upgraded CMC which they sold to me at cost. Had to pay to have that installed. It fixed the lockout, but the pedal became SOOO stiff. It was not a good daily driver anymore. I literally bought a $2,000 beater mazda to not have to drive the si anymore. THEN, a few days later the CMC began to leak! Right around the same time sirimoto released their new "N1" CMC that was supposedly going to fix the lockout. $300 later (after labor and parts), I have a softer pedal, but lockout remains. The only viable option seems to be the type r retro fit clutch emman makes and sells from California. Again though, it is $1,300 plus labor for me to have it installed. At what point do I call it quits? I don't know what to do at this point.

Pic of my Si included

Honda Civic 10th gen Need opinion on price of 2019 R CFE7CEA0-1E39-4B5B-A7B1-3D0CCA60C352


Honda Civic 10th gen Need opinion on price of 2019 R BACF9E44-6479-4C07-B618-6974A5397607
 
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Zeffy94

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Damn, 4.7% and the rates are lower than when I bought mine. I got 4.49% from USAA for 72 months 19 months ago.
 

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Cheaper to fix Si and keep driving it. Or return to stock, part out the rest, and revisit the math. Best of luck on whichever route you take.
 

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Sounds like the Si is beyond easy fixing. You probably should've taken their offer and been happy as hell with the Type R. Take harlaquin's advice above. Stress is no good. You are driving a POS every day because you can't stand the Si. Trade it for the Type R and leave it stock.
 
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Sounds like the Si is beyond easy fixing. You probably should've taken their offer and been happy as hell with the Type R. Take harlaquin's advice above. Stress is no good. You are driving a POS every day because you can't stand the Si. Trade it for the Type R and leave it stock.
It wasn’t financially feasible today. I have a closing coming up in 3 weeks and i would be able to put more money down. Like someone said,I’ll revisit the math at that time.
thanks for all the advice
 


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I understand. I wasn't trying to make you feel worse, sorry if I did. But dumping more money into the Si with no guarantee of a fix is also not a good financial decision. Perhaps you should trade the Si and the newly acquired Mazda for a Type R. Whatever you decide, I wish you good luck.
 

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Well guys, it didn't happen today. Apparently you can't get a good interest rate on Type R's through Honda financing. Best they offer is like 4.7% something. I was hoping to get $19,000 ish for my si (2018 14k miles), but since its modded and I don't have the stock wheels, they can't certify it. I took the ktuner and flex fuel off, but left the full exhaust on it because I don't have the means to remove it. Most they offered me for my trade was $17,600. I own $15,086. Problem was that I was hoping to be around $450/ month with $2,500 down, plus around $4,000 in positive equity. They had me around $560 ish for 74 months with $2,500 down. With $2,500 down at 84 months it was around $520-530 I don't remember exactly. Also, at 84 months honda doesn't do the finance and the interest is over 5%! I had to walk away unfortunately. I did go to Auto Buy on the way home and they offered me $18,000. I had to walk away again.

The only reason I am considering upgrading to the Type R is because I wouldn't need to mod it. I've dropped so much money into the Si I have a hard time letting it go for less than I am comfortable with. I literally had to replace the stock clutch with a Spec stage 2+ with a steel flywheel and its been nothing short of a nightmare. The clutch/flywheel alone was $930, install was $800. Then there was a high rpm "lock out" everyone was experiencing. The company suggested removing the CDV from the SMC, so I bought a spare and had a shop do it. It didn't help. I then did a bunch of acuity upgrades and added amsoil syncromesh and it didn't help. The company then released a Wilwood upgraded CMC which they sold to me at cost. Had to pay to have that installed. It fixed the lockout, but the pedal became SOOO stiff. It was not a good daily driver anymore. I literally bought a $2,000 beater mazda to not have to drive the si anymore. THEN, a few days later the CMC began to leak! Right around the same time sirimoto released their new "N1" CMC that was supposedly going to fix the lockout. $300 later (after labor and parts), I have a softer pedal, but lockout remains. The only viable option seems to be the type r retro fit clutch emman makes and sells from California. Again though, it is $1,300 plus labor for me to have it installed. At what point do I call it quits? I don't know what to do at this point.

Pic of my Si included

CFE7CEA0-1E39-4B5B-A7B1-3D0CCA60C352.jpeg


BACF9E44-6479-4C07-B618-6974A5397607.jpeg
Looks like there is some info here you left out (or I missed it) before that could of helped us give you better answers. Dealers do not like mods most want them removed because of selling certified. If they have to replace the parts to sell certified they are gonna take it out of your trade. I had to remove all my mods before my dealer would take my trade as well. I simply sold the mods after. (lesson here people keeps your oem parts after you mod you will need them). Some dealers don't care about mods but they certainly won't give you any money for them. Mods are a losing battle dealer will not pay for your mods. If you mod and aren't going to remove them later you may as well consider their value zero.

Plus it sounds like you have created a mess of your car so much so that you don't even like driving it? With this current info I most likely would have taken the first offer and ran with it. Do keep in mind that is some states dealers are protected the same as consumers when it comes to buying lemon cars. If you sign paperwork stating nothing is wrong with your car then they find the whole transmission had been modded then not disclosed , in some state you will be on the hook for repairs.

IM speculating here you may have told them I don't know. I'm just saying. Anyway good luck on closing and I hope in the future you get your R.

Have you considered just undoing the changes to the Si and going back stock? Ill be honest I got caught up in the mod rabbit hole and after modding my R I wish I had not. It just seems to never end and it cost a fortune. When I put it back to stock it was so much better.
 
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Looks like there is some info here you left out (or I missed it) before that could of helped us give you better answers. Dealers do not like mods most want them removed because of selling certified. If they have to replace the parts to sell certified they are gonna take it out of your trade. I had to remove all my mods before my dealer would take my trade as well. I simply sold the mods after. (lesson here people keeps your oem parts after you mod you will need them). Some dealers don't care about mods but they certainly won't give you any money for them. Mods are a losing battle dealer will not pay for your mods. If you mod and aren't going to remove them later you may as well consider their value zero.

Plus it sounds like you have created a mess of your car so much so that you don't even like driving it? With this current info I most likely would have taken the first offer and ran with it. Do keep in mind that is some states dealers are protected the same as consumers when it comes to buying lemon cars. If you sign paperwork stating nothing is wrong with your car then they find the whole transmission had been modded then not disclosed , in some state you will be on the hook for repairs.

IM speculating here you may have told them I don't know. I'm just saying. Anyway good luck on closing and I hope in the future you get your R.

Have you considered just undoing the changes to the Si and going back stock? Ill be honest I got caught up in the mod rabbit hole and after modding my R I wish I had not. It just seems to never end and it cost a fortune. When I put it back to stock it was so much better.
Yes, you’re right. I wish I had kept the wheels. I kept the stock springs, stock downpipe and front pipe etc. I don’t have the stock catback. I have removed the ktuner and flex fuel, and intake. I can’t swap the major items because live in an apartment complex and i don’t feel comfortable enough doing it on my own.
I actually don’t mind driving the Mazda. It was more of a good deal from a friend and I would rather use that as a daily and put my dog in rather than my si. I would still keep it with if I get the R.
 
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I understand. I wasn't trying to make you feel worse, sorry if I did. But dumping more money into the Si with no guarantee of a fix is also not a good financial decision. Perhaps you should trade the Si and the newly acquired Mazda for a Type R. Whatever you decide, I wish you good luck.
No problem at all. I won’t dump another penny into it except for the fuel it will cost me to get it traded in lol. I am keeping the Mazda for every day driving and long distance drives, including my dog. The si/ or R would be a weekend toy :)
 
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Do you gents think stretching out the terms to 84 months at 5% would be senseless? It would get me closer to my desired payment. Maybe I can refinance it for a lower rate after the fact ?
 


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Do you gents think stretching out the terms to 84 months at 5% would be senseless? It would get me closer to my desired payment. Maybe I can refinance it for a lower rate after the fact ?
Problem is the interest rate is going to be too high. 75 should be max.
 

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60 would be my comfort zone. Sleep on it and save some more for the down payment. Shop around for the lowest interest rate in the meantime. CTR will be around for a couple more years.
 

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Do you gents think stretching out the terms to 84 months at 5% would be senseless? It would get me closer to my desired payment. Maybe I can refinance it for a lower rate after the fact ?
First, don't buy a car based on a payment. Figure out the total price you are paying for the car. payment * 84? That is a ridiculous amount of time to be paying for a car. As people have mentioned, get pre-approved at a credit union. Check out the rates at PenFed. If your credit is good, Honda might/should match whatever legitimate rate you can present to them. And if not, then just finance through the credit union if the numbers are right.
 

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Do you gents think stretching out the terms to 84 months at 5% would be senseless? It would get me closer to my desired payment. Maybe I can refinance it for a lower rate after the fact ?
An 84 month loan is incredibly long. I have never heard of somebody taking out a loan for that long on a car.
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