My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade

Cervelo1

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Does anyone know the stock Speaker sizes for the front and rear?
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syncro87

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I threw some tweeters into the trim panels in my LX hatch. Remarkable improvement for such a small and easy mod. It was decent enough that I left the other OE speakers in there.
 

Fishyb

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I threw some tweeters into the trim panels in my LX hatch. Remarkable improvement for such a small and easy mod. It was decent enough that I left the other OE speakers in there.
Do you remember which tweeters they were and did you get them installed somewhere or did you do it yourself?
 

cestjoel

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I installed Infinity Kappa Components in front and Infinity Reference Coaxials (shallow mount) in the rear using the AudioControl LC7i to an Infinity Reference power amp. All with the stock head unit. These speakers are really sensitive and are very telling of how bad the quality is on the HU and DAC lol.

I would recommend Polk DB6501 (or DB6502) for the fronts and Polk DB652 in the rears, if you're using a hi-low converter/amps. If you just want to swap the stock speakers, I would go with something that has high sensitivity (91db+) and lower impedance (2-3 ohm)
 
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ezkarabetis

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I just installed a pair of JL Audio C2-650X coaxials in the front, and I'm putting another in the back. They're labeled 6½", but they're closer to a 6¾", so they fit perfectly into the Ai HSB524 adapter. Also got the Boom Mat 050330 baffles and the Metra 72-7800 wire harnesses. Prep time took about ten minutes per speaker, and about fifteen minutes to install per door. With the speaker baffles, you'll notice I cut the bottom half of the rear portion out. I've read a lot of complaints regarding the sound being muffled. A lot of videos and forums say cutting it helps alleviate that issue, and it still keeps any water from possibly falling onto the speaker. Also, it keeps the speaker from rattling. These speakers fit perfectly, but I had to cut the provided screws down to about ¾" with a sturdy set of wire cutters. Otherwise, they would hit against the door panel. On the 12th image, I circled the placement of the four black screws in yellow, and the main screw that holds the adapter flush to the door panel in green. The rest of the install is very simple. The wire harness only clicks in one way, and the positive/negative terminals are two different sizes. No confusion there. All I would recommend is that you put some blue Loctite on that center screw before you tighten it in all the way. Couldn't hurt.
Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0527 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0529 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0531 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0533 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0534 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0535 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0536 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0537 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0539 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0541 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0542 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0544 Honda Civic 10th gen My Sport Hatchback stock speakers need an upgrade IMG_0546
 

Shankmeyster

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Someone said they just got the EX tweeter pods and put them in there.
 

10thDave

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Do a 4ch amp first then speakers later.

The WORST thing you can do is underpower speakers.
 

josby

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Do a 4ch amp first then speakers later.

The WORST thing you can do is underpower speakers.
Simple test: if your music sounds bad, turn the volume down some. If it sounds just as bad, just quieter, you need new speakers. If it sounds better, you need more power.
 

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This is why I wished Honda put at least Bose on the Sport Touring HB.

These so called premium speakers are a joke but I want to work on Suspension first.
 


Shankmeyster

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Haven't had a problem yet and the bass is good enough for me on my Sport. Probably because I'm older and don't listen to loud music in the car anymore.
 

10thDave

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Simple test: if your music sounds bad, turn the volume down some. If it sounds just as bad, just quieter, you need new speakers. If it sounds better, you need more power.
Haven't had a problem yet and the bass is good enough for me on my Sport. Probably because I'm older and don't listen to loud music in the car anymore.
For most people the stock sound systems are enough. For those of us like me who enjoy really high highs and really low lows, you have to go aftermarket.
 

Doc_C

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This is why I wished Honda put at least Bose on the Sport Touring HB.

These so called premium speakers are a joke but I want to work on Suspension first.
(shivers uncontrollably) 3/4 of all "Bose" systems in vehicles are actually not made by Bose. The vehicle manufacturer pays to license their name and technology and farms it out to build it as cheaply as possible. What you're getting is duped. It's almost like the placebo effect. Also, if you have a "premium" sound system and you want to change something or add to it, you're pretty much starting out in the thousand dollar range. If you're starting with the base audio systems, you're free to start and do whatever you want.
 

cestjoel

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I just installed a pair of JL Audio C2-650X coaxials in the front, and I'm putting another in the back. They're labeled 6½", but they're closer to a 6¾", so they fit perfectly into the Ai HSB524 adapter. Also got the Boom Mat 050330 baffles and the Metra 72-7800 wire harnesses. Prep time took about ten minutes per speaker, and about fifteen minutes to install per door. With the speaker baffles, you'll notice I cut the bottom half of the rear portion out. I've read a lot of complaints regarding the sound being muffled. A lot of videos and forums say cutting it helps alleviate that issue, and it still keeps any water from possibly falling onto the speaker. Also, it keeps the speaker from rattling. These speakers fit perfectly, but I had to cut the provided screws down to about ¾" with a sturdy set of wire cutters. Otherwise, they would hit against the door panel. On the 12th image, I circled the placement of the four black screws in yellow, and the main screw that holds the adapter flush to the door panel in green. The rest of the install is very simple. The wire harness only clicks in one way, and the positive/negative terminals are two different sizes. No confusion there. All I would recommend is that you put some blue Loctite on that center screw before you tighten it in all the way. Couldn't hurt.
IMG_0527.jpg IMG_0529.jpg IMG_0531.jpg IMG_0533.jpg IMG_0534.jpg IMG_0535.jpg IMG_0536.jpg IMG_0537.jpg IMG_0539.jpg IMG_0541.jpg IMG_0542.jpg IMG_0544.jpg IMG_0546.jpg
So, how do these sound? Was thinking of swapping my Infinity speakers for these. The infinities are too damn bright in this car.
 

ezkarabetis

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So, how do these sound? Was thinking of swapping my Infinity speakers for these. The infinities are too damn bright in this car.
I like them, mostly, but I'm pretty convinced I'll need an amp and subwoofer sooner than later. There's just not the right amount coming from the stock head unit.
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