My FlashPro experiences and datalogs (boost level and IAT temps with oem IC)

Hondata

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Filled up this morning for 3rd time since uploading the 6+ psi calibration and all seems back to normal. It gave me my normal range and as I drove off, the avg mpg jumped straight into the 30's. Wondering if "Range" is based off of the previous tanks avg mpg? If so, that would make sense, bc of course after I loaded the cal, I went out and had a heavy foot. That first tank of 93 after the cal, my avg mpg was in the upper 20s. The tank I just finished I had 36.9 avg mpg.
Range is based off the average fuel economy for the last X minutes and an estimation of the fuel level. It may be that reflashing the ECU resets the range calculation.

Could we get a double check on the calculated fuel economy please? The next time you fill up, calculate the MPG from the gallons added and compare it to the dashboard estimated value. Run the tank as empty as possible. This will reduce the error in the calculation.
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dallasjhawk

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Range is based off the average fuel economy for the last X minutes and an estimation of the fuel level. It may be that reflashing the ECU resets the range calculation.

Could we get a double check on the calculated fuel economy please? The next time you fill up, calculate the MPG from the gallons added and compare it to the dashboard estimated value. Run the tank as empty as possible. This will reduce the error in the calculation.
this morning I filled 8.9 gallons, no toppin off at 318 miles giving us a nice 35.73 mpg calc

EDIT: let me add that my round trip drive today would be 56 miles and my Range said 64 miles so I filled up on the way in to work. So I was surprised it only took 8.9 gallons. Ill track it again this tank.

EDIT 2: It was actually 316.9 miles and 8.9 gallons so 35.60 mpg. Also attaching a photo of my MPG history, the bottom mpg was the first tank after the flash, as you can see my mpgs have increased with each subsequent tank. I think it may have just been me and my heavy foot plus the flash messing with the Range and MPG. It all appears to be headed back to pre flash

Honda Civic 10th gen My FlashPro experiences and datalogs  (boost level and IAT temps with oem IC) IMG_7825 (1).JPG
 
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CEXT

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On my 6th revision.This CVT won't hit redline.I think the highest its gone is 5800 RPM in my first WOT pull in Sport mode.
You don't want it to be above 5800rpm because peak HP is at 5600rpm and power drops off sharply from there. The car will actually be slower at 6000rpm. A higher redline is better in a car that shifts (like a manual), so your next gear ends up in the sweet spot. For a CVT, the perfect rpm is probably 5600.
 

hawk02

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Another thing, everyone should know that when doing custom tunes, it requires quite a few calibrations to get it just perfect, so a couple of things may be off like mpg for example. You don't just buy one calibration and upload it and call it a day. I've seen people do 20-40 calibrations! It depends.
That's why a dyno tune is the best, done in 2-4 hours, no endless emailing and calibrations, you just want all your bolt ons on at the time.......
 
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dc2turbo

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That's why a dyno tune is the best, done in 2-4 hours, no endless emailing and calibrations, you just want all your bolt ons on at the time.......
even if you dont have all your mods. retunes are cheap enough. they are usually around $100/hr and it shouldnt take longer than that unless you did something big
 


17siturb0

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That's why a dyno tune is the best, done in 2-4 hours, no endless emailing and calibrations, you just want all your bolt ons on at the time.......
That's why a dyno tune is the best, done in 2-4 hours, no endless emailing and calibrations, you just want all your bolt ons on at the time.......
i still prefer etunes, your car will run the most efficient with using etunes. Like Vit viper. Real world tuning vs tuning in a hot garage. I rather take the real world and have my car run the best it possibly can.
 
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dc2turbo

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i still prefer etunes, your car will run the most efficient with using etunes. Like Vit viper. Real world tuning vs tuning in a hot garage. I rather take the real world and have my car run the best it possibly can.
they do street tunes after the dyno
 

NorthernEX-T

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You don't want it to be above 5800rpm because peak HP is at 5600rpm and power drops off sharply from there. The car will actually be slower at 6000rpm. A higher redline is better in a car that shifts (like a manual), so your next gear ends up in the sweet spot. For a CVT, the perfect rpm is probably 5600.
Is there anyway we can get a tune made so the CVT holds it at 5670rpm in L where the peak hp is with the +6 psi tune? @Hondata
 


dallasjhawk

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I see, sorry a little of a newb question lol
You good bro. Thats why we come here to learn. Some know more than others and we can bounce ideas off each other too
 

CEXT

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the cvt is on a separate computer
Is there anyway we can get a tune made so the CVT holds it at 5670rpm in L where the peak hp is with the +6 psi tune? @Hondata
There is a way to increase boost in the 5800 to 6200 rpm range so that becomes the new peak power. I don't know how much boost would work though.
 

Hondadude88

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Just wondering do they drop in price or go on sale? Planning to get one in the summer, birthday present for myself
They devalue pretty fast but after three years you should be ok. You can pick one up for a good price. Dealers don't want to sit on a car to long. Just be cautious on the "extras" ie extended warranty or of a sort.
 

ichii

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They devalue pretty fast but after three years you should be ok. You can pick one up for a good price. Dealers don't want to sit on a car to long. Just be cautious on the "extras" ie extended warranty or of a sort.
Yeah, I was one of the bright one that got the extended warranty lol. I was just kinda worried since it was the first turbo Honda engine that I know of. I heard that it was easy to flash it back to stock.
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