Moded Cluth master cylinder and Slave clutch cylinder. (grinding issues)

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This modification is for those people who are suffering of the grinding 2nd gear, or crunching gears.



Hello Folks! I'm currently making this modification for improve the famous 2nd gear grinding issue also improve those crunchy shifting.



The modification is for both, Clutch master cylinder and Salve master cylinder, why both?


Clutch Master cylinder:


As you know the clutch master cylinder (CMC) has a damper inside, this damper prevent the fluid oscillation from the slave master cylinder, when you depress the clutch pedal the engine vibrations are transmitted back through the brake fluid from slave clutch cylinder to the clutch master cylinder making the pedal vibrating , for avoid this vibrations the brake fluid goes to a damper inside of the clutch master cylinder (goes inside a chamber and then the fluid go through the master cylinder chamber slowing down the brake fluid). The modification consists in bypassing this chamber for make the master cylinder operate directly.


Pros: Direct shifting, when you depress the clutch pedal the clutch disengage immediately and feels more connected to the clutch, also soft pedal feeling.

Cons: Vibration on the clutch pedal at high rpm. (are mild vibration but for some this can be annoying)



Slave clutch cylinder:


The slave clutch cylinder has a delay valve, this delay valve is used for preventing the shock on the transmission when you release the clutch pedal making a soft operation between shifting (increase the slippage of the clutch). The question is why do I need to get rid of this delay valve? The answer is simple, this delay valve is located right at the input of the brake fluid coming from the clutch master cylinder partially blocking the fluid trough the slave clutch cylinder creating delay when you depress the clutch pedal. This occur partially, the valve is designed for one way, (when the brake fluid is going out releasing the clutch pedal) but unfortunately for the location of this valve, this decreases the fluid going through the slave clutch cylinder.



Pros: Doing this mod when you disengage the clutch will disengage immediately, it means if you dump the clutch pedal you will feel how the car practically jumps if you don't control the clutch pedal. (between shifting it will feel more powerful) If you don't have control of the clutch pedal, I won’t recommend this mod. (in mine opinion feels right to me, more connected compared stock)


Cons: As I said before if you can't control the clutch pedal or you like to dump the clutch you can damage the power train or other related components.


The modification I do with OEM Clutch master cylinder and OEM slave clutch cylinder.


Interested PM:
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if the 2nd gear grind issue was really due to the CMC, wouldn't you have grinding in every other gear also?
 
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if the 2nd gear grind issue was really due to the CMC, wouldn't you have grinding in every other gear also?
Yes, the issue is common in 2 gear, but also in 3 gear some people has 5th gear, the 2nd gear is the most common issue due the speed of the synchronize . But yes there is issues in other gears also. This mod helps, but if the synchros are already worn this mod won't help.
 

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Yes, the issue is common in 2 gear, but also in 3 gear some people has 5th gear, the 2nd gear is the most common issue due the speed of the synchronize . But yes there is issues in other gears also. This mod helps, but if the synchros are already worn this mod won't help.
yeah, that was my point. the 2nd gear issue seems to be synchro related, not clutch related. just my opinion.
 


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The synchro are not the best in this transmission, but any improvement in how disengage the clutch improve and save the synchro. Is not fun take a part the transmission for replace the synchro.
 
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After doing this mod I tried first CDV delete, definitely after moded the slave clutch cylinder improve , but the 2nd grinding gear still there, (spirit shifting, specially after a U-turn , 1 gear WOT and then 2 gear ), I upgrade cable bushing, gearbox full adjustable shifter (Acuity ) and Amsoil and I adjusted the CMC rod, all this changes improve all the shifting experience but does not solve my problem, and after the CMC rod adjust the clutch pedal disengage was very far from the floor, before was more close, I didn't like that, make slope shifting experience (in mine opinion). After all that I decide to mod my Clutch Master Cylinder, and finally got smooth shifting, and is more direct , now I can do quick shifting and I now finally feel like the clutch fully disengage , now the clutch pedal is disengaging on the bottom, this allows to do quick shifting and the gear go in smooth .

Now finally I can enjoy my car, all this time was never happy with the shifting experience and always worried about grind my gears ,shifting very carefully trying to avoid any grind,
 

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I get a zap sound when I shift 4th quick. Probably syncros. If I run up to 6k in 3rd I have to wait just over a full second for rpm to drop before shifting 4th. Happened a week after spec 2+ clutch when slamming 4th and ever since. Then I did wilwood CMC and new lines and delay valve delete. This ran well for a few months then the wilwood cmc leaked and Danny at spec said this was a problem and sent me a new one. After the new one was Installed it got me home then the next day it wouldnt work. Turned out the 2nd wilwood cmc was pushing too much fluid and was overextending too far. The wilwood is 3/4 bore vs stock â…ť. Backed it out so it doesn't depress the cylinder all the way and works great.

So here's my problem other then having to wait forever to grab 4th at high rpm. Since I'm not using the full range of the new CMC it does not recognize it's pressed so I can't set cruise control. This happened with the first CMC and I could lift the clutch pedel with my toe to get cruise. This new CMC is set for even less throw so that trick doesn't work anymore. It's not a simple contact switch that monitors pressed/unpressed. It's a fricken potentiometer that measures the full swing. It's hard as hell to get up in there with a mirror to see. I'm thinking of fabricating a bracket but it's not going to be easy. Is there a way to calibrate that clutch pot?
 
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I get a zap sound when I shift 4th quick. Probably syncros. If I run up to 6k in 3rd I have to wait just over a full second for rpm to drop before shifting 4th. Happened a week after spec 2+ clutch when slamming 4th and ever since. Then I did wilwood CMC and new lines and delay valve delete. This ran well for a few months then the wilwood cmc leaked and Danny at spec said this was a problem and sent me a new one. After the new one was Installed it got me home then the next day it wouldnt work. Turned out the 2nd wilwood cmc was pushing too much fluid and was overextending too far. The wilwood is 3/4 bore vs stock â…ť. Backed it out so it doesn't depress the cylinder all the way and works great.

So here's my problem other then having to wait forever to grab 4th at high rpm. Since I'm not using the full range of the new CMC it does not recognize it's pressed so I can't set cruise control. This happened with the first CMC and I could lift the clutch pedel with my toe to get cruise. This new CMC is set for even less throw so that trick doesn't work anymore. It's not a simple contact switch that monitors pressed/unpressed. It's a fricken potentiometer that measures the full swing. It's hard as hell to get up in there with a mirror to see. I'm thinking of fabricating a bracket but it's not going to be easy. Is there a way to calibrate that clutch pot?
This is what I did , the calibration learning process is: turn the ignition on but so t depress the clutch pedal , what for 2 second for the Vsa lights turn off , if after this process keep doing the same is because the cluth pedal is too off from the initial position , in this case what you could do is adjust the clutch pedal far from the bottom and replace the rubber is on the chassis for another taller And adjust the cmc again for optimum trow / travel .
 


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Thank you for the quick response! Just the man I needed to talk to! I guess I don't understand the process though. Press ignition without the clutch (won't start, accessorie mode) wait for VSA lights to turn off then repeat what? This should calibrate the throw? And if this doesn't work out, put a thicker bushing behind to limit the throw and adjust it deeper? Thank you sir.
 

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Thank you for the quick response! Just the man I needed to talk to! I guess I don't understand the process though. Press ignition without the clutch (won't start, accessorie mode) wait for VSA lights to turn off then repeat what? This should calibrate the throw? And if this doesn't work out, put a thicker bushing behind to limit the throw and adjust it deeper? Thank you sir.
Yes that is correct, If this procedure does not fix it, then you need to go a little back of the pedal adjustment. Yeah the bottom rubber is for limit the travel of the clutch pedal.
 
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