Lust's FK8 Civic Type R Track & Street Build

eXstasy

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You list in your fluid choices:
  • Motul Gear 300 Transmission Fluid
Should we be using Motul Gear 300 and not 300 LS in our transaxles?
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Lust

Lust

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Hey.. Sorry to hear about what happen to your first fk8...

XPEL Ultimate PPF on entire front clip, side skirts, rear spats, and rear bumper applique.

I know you've had a lot of experience with having your type r as a daily..

I was wondering what you mean by rear spats and rear bumper applique that you out PPF on?

Anyone have any other areas recommended to ppf?
Thanks for the kind words. I have a CW one now which I prefer over ABM haha.

The rear spat I’m referring to is the over fender area on the rear bumper. A lot of dirt and rocks get kicked up here so I decided to add a layer of PPF. The rear bumper appliqué is the area where the rear bumper meets the trunk lid. This is a flat surface so a lot of dirt gets stuck here. Not to mention loading things in and out increase the chance of scratching the paint. Adding PPF here helps resolve those problems. The more PPF the better IMO. It comes down to your budget.

You list in your fluid choices:
  • Motul Gear 300 Transmission Fluid
Should we be using Motul Gear 300 and not 300 LS in our transaxles?
Use Gear 300 and not Gear 300 LS. The Gear 300 LS is not designed to work with our transmissions.
 

SlasherX

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Thanks for the kind words. I have a CW one now which I prefer over ABM haha.

The rear spat I’m referring to is the over fender area on the rear bumper. A lot of dirt and rocks get kicked up here so I decided to add a layer of PPF. The rear bumper appliqué is the area where the rear bumper meets the trunk lid. This is a flat surface so a lot of dirt gets stuck here. Not to mention loading things in and out increase the chance of scratching the paint. Adding PPF here helps resolve those problems. The more PPF the better IMO. It comes down to your budget.
Thanks for the update.

The areas that you ppf seems to cover a lot of protection that is needed? I know I seen some people on threads complain about the back doors getting hit with rock chips with wider aftermarket wheels because the back door curve more outwards.
 

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I have PFF on the front of the car to where the side mirrors stop. The rear flat step below the hatch got scratched when I was helping transport some tables and the dudes loading them just threw them in not caring because it wasn’t their car smh . Had to repaint and re-ceramic the rear bumper, so had them apply PFF to that step area also.

I somehow got a rock chip on the gas cover panel, no PFF there :(


Thanks for the update.

The areas that you ppf seems to cover a lot of protection that is needed? I know I seen some people on threads complain about the back doors getting hit with rock chips with wider aftermarket wheels because the back door curve more outwards.
 

SlasherX

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I have PFF on the front of the car to where the side mirrors stop. The rear flat step below the hatch got scratched when I was helping transport some tables and the dudes loading them just threw them in not caring because it wasn’t their car smh . Had to repaint and re-ceramic the rear bumper, so had them apply PFF to that step area also.

I somehow got a rock chip on the gas cover panel, no PFF there :(
OMG X_X

The reason I am asking all of these questions is because I still have my 8thgen Honda Civic Si...
The OEM paint is terrible... I had crows feet starting to developing on the hood... Then took it in for the paint recall and the car was two different shades of blue.. So I just repainted the whole car...

I know Honda paint sucks and don't want to go through the same thing at all.. I see other Type R owners are having issues already and the paint is soft and chips easily.
 


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Lust

Lust

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OMG X_X

The reason I am asking all of these questions is because I still have my 8thgen Honda Civic Si...
The OEM paint is terrible... I had crows feet starting to developing on the hood... Then took it in for the paint recall and the car was two different shades of blue.. So I just repainted the whole car...

I know Honda paint sucks and don't want to go through the same thing at all.. I see other Type R owners are having issues already and the paint is soft and chips easily.
Yes the paint is very soft. I recommend wrapping the whole car in PPF if your budget allows. I chose to do high impact spots on the car and ceramic coat the rest. As long as you keep up with maintenance and have some form of paint protection like wax, ceramic coating, PPF, you will be enhancing the life of the clear coat
 

SlasherX

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Yes the paint is very soft. I recommend wrapping the whole car in PPF if your budget allows. I chose to do high impact spots on the car and ceramic coat the rest. As long as you keep up with maintenance and have some form of paint protection like wax, ceramic coating, PPF, you will be enhancing the life of the clear coat
Thank You For Everything

That is the plan! Thanks for the quick replies.
 

Code Monkey

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For wheels, you list Volk TE37 18x10 +40 in the first post and in videos you list Volk TE37 18x9.5 +45, both with 265/35/18 tires.
Did you track on 18x10 +40 and had rubbing issues on stock suspension? On lowering springs?
 
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Lust

Lust

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For wheels, you list Volk TE37 18x10 +40 in the first post and in videos you list Volk TE37 18x9.5 +45, both with 265/35/18 tires.
Did you track on 18x10 +40 and had rubbing issues on stock suspension? On lowering springs?
18x9.5 +45 was my old setup. I have tracked on 18x10 +40 lowered on swift springs. No rubbing at thunder hill west or laguna. I did need to fold the front fender tab though.
 
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Updates in regards to the new year, power adders, and cooling.

I’m currently “stock” minus the KTuner Stage 1 basemap. This alone has changed the car significantly IMO. I’m not a straight line type of guy but the other night I roll raced a 5.0 and made bus lengths with ease. 5.0 guy was shocked and it was rather funny because he shouted out “is that thing turbod!?” He was super cool about it. The tuner view app on the head unit is super nice. I’m using it to monitor IAT, IAT2, ECT, ECT, AFR, and boost. What’s also cool is that I can set a threshold where I get a warning if something were to get too hot.

My plan is to go all out with bolt on mods and a custom tune by Derek at IMW. I’ve never been a big believer in adding power first. I know I’m slow to the game...

Unfortunately HKS cannot ship their catless downpipe and front pipe to California. Oh well maybe it’s for the better. I decided to switch my order to a PRL high flow catted downpipe. I am debating on getting the PRL front pipe or just leaving it stock. Let me know what you guys think. At least with this combo I know I will pass Laguna’s strict sound restriction.

I immediately placed an order for the PRL TI turbo inlet pipe when it was announced. I have yet to receive mine and I anxiously await it’s arrival. Hopefully this will help with turbo responsive and overall reduce IATs.

My HKS intercooler kit and piping is sitting in my room collecting dust. Main reason is because my downpipe hasn’t arrived yet and I wanted to get everything cerakoted with the glacier series stuff. I figured I would coat my intercooler pipes along with the downpipe front pipe to further mitigate the heat. On top of the cerakote, I plan to use DEI titanium heat wrap. Heat reduction is heat reduction?

Initially I thought I’d get a koyorad since most other owners have one. I thought to myself why keep it if people are still overheating? I ended up selling it to a local friend. I figured that I might as well go out and contact someone who makes arguably some of the best radiators in the market, Ron Davis. Through our email conversation they feel confident in having a radiator that will be efficient enough for my use. Stay tuned for this. Hopefully we are able to find the magic bullet when it comes to keeping the car cool.

My goal next year is to have a more reliable car with more power and hopefully attain sub 1:40 times at Laguna and sub 2:00 at Thunder Hill East. Should be a fun and exciting year!
 
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SlasherX

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Updates in regards to the new year, power adders, and cooling.

I’m currently “stock” minus the KTuner Stage 1 basemap. This alone has changed the car significantly IMO. I’m not a straight line type of guy but the other night I roll raced a 5.0 and made bus lengths with ease. 5.0 guy was shocked and it was rather funny because he shouted out “is that thing turbod!?” He was super cool about it. The tuner view app on the head unit is super nice. I’m using it to monitor IAT, IAT2, ECT, ECT, AFR, and boost. What’s also cool is that I can set a threshold where I get a warning if something were to get too hot.

My plan is to go all out with bolt on mods and a custom tune by Derek at IMW. I’ve never been a big believer in adding power first. I know I’m slow to the game...

Unfortunately HKS cannot ship their catless downpipe and front pipe to California. Oh well maybe it’s for the better. I decided to switch my order to a PRL high flow catted downpipe. I am debating on getting the PRL front pipe or just leaving it stock. Let me know what you guys think. At least with this combo I know I will pass Laguna’s strict sound restriction.

I immediately placed an order for the PRL TI turbo inlet pipe when it was announced. I have yet to receive mine and I anxiously await it’s arrival. Hopefully this will help with turbo responsive and overall reduce IATs.

My HKS intercooler kit and piping is sitting in my room collecting dust. Main reason is because my downpipe hasn’t arrived yet and I wanted to get everything cerakoted with the glacier series stuff. I figured I would coat my intercooler pipes along with the downpipe front pipe to further mitigate the heat. On top of the cerakote, I plan to use DEI titanium heat wrap. Heat reduction is heat reduction?

Initially I thought I’d get a koyorad since most other owners have one. I thought to myself why keep it if people are still overheating? I ended up selling it to a local friend. I figured that I might as well go out and contact someone who makes arguably some of the best radiators in the market, Ron Davis. Through our email conversation they feel confident in having a radiator that will be efficient enough for my use. Stay tuned for this. Hopefully we are able to find the magic bullet when it comes to keeping the car cool.

My goal next year is to have a more reliable car with more power and hopefully attain sub 1:40 times at Laguna and sub 2:00 at Thunder Hill East. Should be a fun and exciting year!

Does the Cerakote really make a big difference? Have you used it before? I know with the cerakote will still feel warm but not as hot... If you wrap the front pipe with the DEI titanium heat wrap you can touch it may feel some warmth..
 
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Lust

Lust

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Does the Cerakote really make a big difference? Have you used it before? I know with the cerakote will still feel warm but not as hot... If you wrap the front pipe with the DEI titanium heat wrap you can touch it may feel some warmth..
I’m still waiting on a few parts to get everything coated but the spec sheet shows that the glacier series stuff is good up to 2,000 degrees or so.
 

SlasherX

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I’m still waiting on a few parts to get everything coated but the spec sheet shows that the glacier series stuff is good up to 2,000 degrees or so.
Cool! I will be waiting on an update to get your thoughts on the cerakote vs the DEI titanium heat wrap.
 
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Lust

Lust

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Cool! I will be waiting on an update to get your thoughts on the cerakote vs the DEI titanium heat wrap.
Thats the dilemma I’m having too. I’m not sure if the cerakote plus DEI would be beneficial or if I should do one or the other
 

SlasherX

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Thats the dilemma I’m having too. I’m not sure if the cerakote plus DEI would be beneficial or if I should do one or the other
I've been looking online about more information on the cerakote.. There's not that much... I'm having this same dilemma.
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