Long term reliability; 1.5T vs 2.0NA ?

gtman

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Some have suggested that direct injection spark ignition engines share some similarly to diesel engines... Hence the black particle matter build up. Couple that with Honda confessing they toned down HP for longevity... The 1.5 could also be the diamond in the ruff. If you get to 100 000 miles you should get the turbo redone but then it's going to be good for another 100 000. It's the CVT that I would run far far far far away from! I used to have a CVT and then moved to the Si.
Actually, find me a case of the CVT having major reliability issues here on the forum. The CVT used with the 1.5T is a beefed up version from the Accord.
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raf702

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I settled with the 2016 2.0NA, I went to go check out the 2016 1.5T. And for the price it was selling for it had cosmetics issues that were an eye sore for me. I know it’s not new, but for amount of money being spent, I want satisfaction. So I had to pass up on it.

So with my driving style, I’m conservative and the turbo wouldn’t be much of an advantage since I wouldn’t be driving it hard.

And with the issues mentioned for 1.5T, I’m glad I passed up on the EX-T, and went with the LX-P. It has lower miles and better overall condition, and cost less. As a daily driver, I’m quite satisfied with my choice.

As of today, I’m officially an owner of a 2016 Coupe LX-P Lunar Silver.
 

frontlinegeek

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As of today, I’m officially an owner of a 2016 Coupe LX-P Lunar Silver.
Welcome to the Civic world!

Too bad you guys don't have the selection for the sedan/coupe we have in Canada, you could have got a nicely appointed EX with the 2.0NA.

Either way, I have been very satisfied with mine and know that I can always KTuner it for a little more performance and responsiveness.
 
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raf702

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Welcome to the Civic world!

Too bad you guys don't have the selection for the sedan/coupe we have in Canada, you could have got a nicely appointed EX with the 2.0NA.

Either way, I have been very satisfied with mine and know that I can always KTuner it for a little more performance and responsiveness.
Thank God, I got the more reasonable choice based on the options I was faced with.

Being in California though, I assume Ktuner is not CA carb compliant? Then again it can always be flashed back to stock prior to smog check, right?
And is KTuner well worth it?
 

frontlinegeek

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Being in California though, I assume Ktuner is not CA carb compliant?
I would bet it is compliant. I think the only thing that is an issue there is when you start removing the first cat/downpipe as that would definitely mess with emissions.

Then again it can always be flashed back to stock prior to smog check, right?
Yes, this is quite doable and although I am not yet tuned, most here will flash back if they have to go for something where a tune would make someones face get scruntchy at the dealership or risk failing an emissions test.

And is KTuner well worth it?
From everything I have read, it is a straight and easy yes. For you being in the US, even moreso as it is only $450 for the v1.2. Damned thing is $650 CAD so I have been getting the other priorities over the last 20 months and will be doing the KTuner either late this fall or after the winter in 2020. The biggest changes that I have gathered from all the reading and commenting is the change in accelerator responsiveness, the change in VTEC engaging somewhat lower and a very odd power drop in the 6000 rpm range that they get rid of.

They only way I would say it isn't worth it is if you really find the car is good enough for you the way it is. And it may well be. Honestly, other than the inner nerd in me, I could easily drive mine the way it is for years without a tune as it is quite adequate for normal intended use. Drive it for a while before making up your mind as you may want to spend the cash on lights or interior accessories like better floor mats or the like, more than getting the performance tweaked. Being in Canada, I had to prioritise having a set of winters and good floor mats so I had almost a grand in tires, wheels and mats spoken for before I even left the dealer. Thank heavens my brother works for a major parts warehouse and hooked me up on the wheels and tires or I would have been closer to the $1500 bunch in the frank and beans!
 


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raf702

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I would bet it is compliant. I think the only thing that is an issue there is when you start removing the first cat/downpipe as that would definitely mess with emissions.



Yes, this is quite doable and although I am not yet tuned, most here will flash back if they have to go for something where a tune would make someones face get scruntchy at the dealership or risk failing an emissions test.



From everything I have read, it is a straight and easy yes. For you being in the US, even moreso as it is only $450 for the v1.2. Damned thing is $650 CAD so I have been getting the other priorities over the last 20 months and will be doing the KTuner either late this fall or after the winter in 2020. The biggest changes that I have gathered from all the reading and commenting is the change in accelerator responsiveness, the change in VTEC engaging somewhat lower and a very odd power drop in the 6000 rpm range that they get rid of.

They only way I would say it isn't worth it is if you really find the car is good enough for you the way it is. And it may well be. Honestly, other than the inner nerd in me, I could easily drive mine the way it is for years without a tune as it is quite adequate for normal intended use. Drive it for a while before making up your mind as you may want to spend the cash on lights or interior accessories like better floor mats or the like, more than getting the performance tweaked. Being in Canada, I had to prioritise having a set of winters and good floor mats so I had almost a grand in tires, wheels and mats spoken for before I even left the dealer. Thank heavens my brother works for a major parts warehouse and hooked me up on the wheels and tires or I would have been closer to the $1500 bunch in the frank and beans!
I appreciate that! I plan to keep the engine stock, but good to know the options for a tune.

Next concern is extended warranty, being that I purchased this pre-owned from a non-Honda dealer. And I chose not to take this dealers warranty option. So what options do I have for extended warranty? Factory I was told it has 3-year/36K miles. Car has 12K miles, and expires in 4-months. I would like to figure out my options at this point.
 

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I had the same questions, as most do. I landed on the 1.5T (mostly because I love the Sport Hatchback too much).

I have a two part plan to try to maximize longevity:
  • Part 1 is to stick with Top Tier gas to help with carbon deposits direct injection engines are prone to. Check out this independent study on fuel brands. Look at the picture after driving 4000 miles, Top Tier gas vs other brands. It looks like that will help mitigate some of the issues that come with DI.
  • Part 2 is to stay on top of my oil changes. I've driven some beaters, and I would usually just get sale oil at Walmart. I'd sometimes push out oil changes till next weekend, next weekend, next weekend, etc. With this new motor, I'm going to use a high quality full synthetic oil, and just maintain my discipline when it comes time to do the change. This will help protect that turbo that loves to spin so fast and so hot.
Basically, the 2.0 is proven bulletproof technology. It's not a bad choice at all. The 1.5T is newer, and comparatively untested. It's still a Honda though. They aren't going to slap some POS engine into their flagship vehicle. It's built to excellent standards. I'm going to just trust Honda, and with some TLC I really believe my 1.5T will last a long long time. And it's a fucking hoot to drive, and I'm not about to miss out on all those years of fun because I wanted to play it safe. Any Honda engine is safe compared to some other brands.
 
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frontlinegeek

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I'm going to use a high quality full synthetic oil, and just maintain my discipline when it comes time to do the change.
0W-20 is only available in full synthetic so no issues there. As for who is better or not, it depends on your local environmental conditions. Check out the rather comprehensive study that Project Farm did:

Part 1 is to stick with Top Tier gas to help with carbon deposits direct injection engines are prone to.
If this animation is to be taken at face value, then Honda is indeed hitting the backs of the valves with the injectors even though they are DI: https://hondanews.com/videos/1-5l-turbo-engine-animation?page=2

If this is true and is in the design of all Honda DI engines, then there is no issue here other than the mistake with the dilution issue from putting too much fuel in when the engine is cold and the poor temperature management that has plagued the Civic and CRV but strangely, not the Accords and certainly not the V6s and the 2.0 turbo in the Accord and the Type R.

Any Honda engine is safe compared to some other brands.
Pretty much! They are THE largest manufacturer of internal combustion engines and the great Toyota lover Scotty Kilmer had to admit that Honda engines are on average even twice as reliable as Toyota.
 

dellyjoughnut

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I know the 2016 civics have an A/C issue either with the condenser or compressor after all those complaints and posts here.
 


Gruber

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Of course, lol. I've come from a history of having FI vehicles. But never had one as a daily driver, they were always my weekend/toy car. Again this car will serve as my long term daily driver.
You only had carbureted engines as daily drivers until now? That’s quite amazing. What have you been driving daily before this civic?
 
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raf702

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You only had carbureted engines as daily drivers until now? That’s quite amazing. What have you been driving daily before this civic?
11’ Subaru WRX, 00’ mustang v6, 97’ civic, 99’ blazer, 06’ Scion XB, 07’ BMW 335i, etc. I went through a ton of car over the years. Lol

But have been driving the 00’ Mustang v6 within the last few weeks, prior to that was the 11’ Subaru WRX for about a month or so.
 

Gruber

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11’ Subaru WRX, 00’ mustang v6, 97’ civic, 99’ blazer, 06’ Scion XB, 07’ BMW 335i, etc. I went through a ton of car over the years. Lol

But have been driving the 00’ Mustang v6 within the last few weeks, prior to that was the 11’ Subaru WRX for about a month or so.
But which of these cars was not FI?
 


 


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