The FK8 Wiki: Tuning and technical info

What horsepower level are you at?


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kefi

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or that other generic intercooler that tries to copy PRL design.
If you're talking about that other three letter one from China, I didn't list their parts on purpose. :patriot:
 

Jpierro79

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If you're talking about that other three letter one from China, I didn't list their parts on purpose. :patriot:
I don’t remember the name but they have a cheap downpipe too. Their intercooler is only like 400 or less.
I wasn’t too much of a fan of HKS either cause they are tube and fin which really slows down flow. I’ve never seen anyone use tube and fin on big power cars.
I looked it up PLM or private label manufacturing. Yes better than stock but I doubt it will hold up as welds internally look shotty. Real quality end tanks alone cost hundreds to manufacture. Good ones anyway. Also most intercoolers after a certain size use a divider on the inlet side to help channel the air to the top and bottom.
 
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How did I miss this post! Such a awesome write up thank you so much fro posting.
 
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kefi

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they are tube and fin which really slows down flow. I’ve never seen anyone use tube and fin on big power cars.
Oh wow, didn't realize that. I'll add a note and check to see if there are any others. Thanks for the info. :beer:
How did I miss this post! Such a awesome write up thank you so much fro posting.
My pleasure. It was only posted less than a week ago :)
 


AdamD19DFK8

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Full bolt ons intake/Titanium inlet through the exhaust plus hondata, around $4,200. Real wheels and tires $3,200. That's pretty much what I've spent so far not including things like cameras, radar detector, etc. All PRL through until the front pipe/exhaust, got an r400 because of its sound and price point for a full car back. My running total for parts would be hundreds more otherwise.

Fuel pump and turbo are my road blocks right now. I will get above 400hp when I get my hands on the PRL drop in. Will need a clutch for that. The next step of moving on from there is insane expensive with a fuel system upgrade and built short block (rods and pistons at least). Full valvetrain rebuild for the classic high revving bwaaahhh (plus more range in the gears). At that point I could have just bought a supra lol. Love the big interior and storage space of the fk8 though, can't beat that.
 
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Full bolt ons intake/Titanium inlet through the exhaust plus hondata, around $4,200. Real wheels and tires $3,200. That's pretty much what I've spent so far not including things like cameras, radar detector, etc. All PRL through until the front pipe/exhaust, got an r400 because of its sound and price point for a full car back. My running total for parts would be hundreds more otherwise.

Fuel pump and turbo are my road blocks right now. I will get above 400hp when I get my hands on the PRL drop in. Will need a clutch for that. The next step of moving on from there is insane expensive with a fuel system upgrade and built short block (rods and pistons at least). Full valvetrain rebuild for the classic high revving bwaaahhh (plus more range in the gears). At that point I could have just bought a supra lol. Love the big interior and storage space of the fk8 though, can't beat that.
Yeah, I dream of having the 4Piston race engine rebuild done one day.. but that's gonna take some financial planning and wife-convincing for sure :D

I too run all PRL parts.. HVI, inlet pipe, intercooler, charge pipes, catted downpipe. Cant wait for that PRL drop in. Probably will swap to catless once I do the turbo too.
 

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Thanks OP putting it together.. great post.
I cant remember last time i read every word in such a long post..

How about Meth? Anyone run Meth here?
I am thinking to do water/methanol injection...
Either Snow performance or AEM.
Any feedback on this??
 

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Full bolt ons intake/Titanium inlet through the exhaust plus hondata, around $4,200. Real wheels and tires $3,200. That's pretty much what I've spent so far not including things like cameras, radar detector, etc. All PRL through until the front pipe/exhaust, got an r400 because of its sound and price point for a full car back. My running total for parts would be hundreds more otherwise.

Fuel pump and turbo are my road blocks right now. I will get above 400hp when I get my hands on the PRL drop in. Will need a clutch for that. The next step of moving on from there is insane expensive with a fuel system upgrade and built short block (rods and pistons at least). Full valvetrain rebuild for the classic high revving bwaaahhh (plus more range in the gears). At that point I could have just bought a supra lol. Love the big interior and storage space of the fk8 though, can't beat that.
I’m right there with you and I’m certain 400 crank at least I’m at right now. I’m wondering though if the stock clutch can take more than the fx400 cause I spin wheels in 3rd with a 265/35/18. Stock clutch zero slip. It torque spins from about 3500 to 5-5500 all the time. That’s got to be in the 400ftlb range no issues on stock clutch. Since torque eats clutches I wonder if the stock clutch can take more than the engine can stock. I had an mk7 GTI with over 400ftlbs crank torque it did not spin like that in 3rd at all. Here’s the crazy part I added zero timing over the Hondata’s OTS map until 4K. I’m close price range to you
Intake 400
Downpipe rv6 ceramic coated catted 650
Invidia cat back 1000
Hondata 500ish
Mishi intercooler 1000
Mishi catch can ???
Turbo blanket I thin in it’s like 200
Turbo inlet blanket another 200
Unlock ecu 200
Hasport Mount
Over 3k on rims and tires. Apex racing with Michelin pilot 4s
Winmax racing state 3 brake pads from back
Stops tech drilled slotted front and rear rotors.
I know I’m forgetting a bunch of little things too.
 


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91 octane 350.83 hp - 383.83 tq
E30 blend 379.91 hp - 391.06 tq
Prl flex fuel kit
Prl turbo inlet
Prl high volume intake
Prl fmic
Rv6 catless downpipe and front pipe
Hondata flashpro
:headbang:
 
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91 octane 350.83 hp - 383.83 tq
E30 blend 379.91 hp - 391.06 tq
Prl flex fuel kit
Prl turbo inlet
Prl high volume intake
Prl fmic
Rv6 catless downpipe and front pipe
Hondata flashpro
:headbang:
:headbang:

i'd get flex fuel but there's like, two stations around orlando that carries E85 and that info was from a forum post in 2008. :rant:
 

ctl

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:headbang:

i'd get flex fuel but there's like, two stations around orlando that carries E85 and that info was from a forum post in 2008. :rant:
get a 2 pack of vp racing 5 gallon jugs off amazon for $65. They will actually hold 6 gallons each. Mix about 3 gallons of e85 to your tank approximately for an e30 blend. I gained 29whp. And even without a tune with flex fuel enabled you’ll really feel it on the butt dyno! I also tried e40 blend (not recommended now above e30) it’ll push you back in the seat lol.

however I have e85 stations close by to me, but I also use these 5 gallon vp racing jugs and use 1 for e85 and 1 for 91 octane to adjust accordingly to get my e30 blend.

hondata showed more gains on their YouTube video but I believe they were doing an e40 blend but now they recommend an e30 blend for headroom of the hpfp getting maxed out.
 

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I’m right there with you and I’m certain 400 crank at least I’m at right now. I’m wondering though if the stock clutch can take more than the fx400 cause I spin wheels in 3rd with a 265/35/18. Stock clutch zero slip. It torque spins from about 3500 to 5-5500 all the time. That’s got to be in the 400ftlb range no issues on stock clutch. Since torque eats clutches I wonder if the stock clutch can take more than the engine can stock. I had an mk7 GTI with over 400ftlbs crank torque it did not spin like that in 3rd at all. Here’s the crazy part I added zero timing over the Hondata’s OTS map until 4K. I’m close price range to you
Intake 400
Downpipe rv6 ceramic coated catted 650
Invidia cat back 1000
Hondata 500ish
Mishi intercooler 1000
Mishi catch can ???
Turbo blanket I thin in it’s like 200
Turbo inlet blanket another 200
Unlock ecu 200
Hasport Mount
Over 3k on rims and tires. Apex racing with Michelin pilot 4s
Winmax racing state 3 brake pads from back
Stops tech drilled slotted front and rear rotors.
I know I’m forgetting a bunch of little things too.
2k-3.5k I advanced by .75 190%-230% AC. 4K-5.2K advanced by 1.5 and the very last row is +2.25 170-230. When outside temps start getting warmer I'll dial back the very top to be safe. Not sure the exact power I'm at, 3rd gear is annoying to tune torque targets as it will Max the fuel pump easily while other gears are fine with much higher targets. Not sure why it does that. I do get a decent bit of wheelspin in 3rd right around 50-60mph. A lot of it depends on the road surface. If it's flat and smooth I won't notice it, if it's bumpy or up hill it will cut boost and give that jarring feeling even with traction control set to a pretty high slip and speed differential. Hoping the clutch lasts for a bit because it's taking close to 400ft/lbs a lot. Sometimes I shift a like too fast which probably doesn't make the clutch happy at all lol. I wonder how much a lighter flywheel would help, even without Rev hang I can still easily out shift the stock setup, where I'll be in gear and releasing before the rpms drop enough. You don't feel anything but in a data log you can see the rpms drop slightly, hang for a bit as it catches the clutch and then drop down to engine speed
 
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Jpierro79

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2k-3.5k I advanced by .75 190%-230% AC. 4K-5.2K advanced by 1.5 and the very last row is +2.25 170-230. When outside temps start getting warmer I'll dial back the very top to be safe. Not sure the exact power I'm at, 3rd gear is annoying to tune torque targets as it will Max the fuel pump easily while other gears are fine with much higher targets. Not sure why it does that. I do get a decent bit of wheelspin in 3rd right around 50-60mph. A lot of it depends on the road surface. If it's flat and smooth I won't notice it, if it's bumpy or up hill it will cut boost and give that jarring feeling even with traction control set to a pretty high slip and speed differential. Hoping the clutch lasts for a bit because it's taking close to 400ft/lbs a lot. Sometimes I shift a like too fast which probably doesn't make the clutch happy at all lol. I wonder how much a lighter flywheel would help, even without Rev hang I can still easily out shift the stock setup, where I'll be in gear and releasing before the rpms drop enough. You don't feel anything but in a data log you can see the rpms drop slightly, hang for a bit as it catches the clutch and then drop down to engine speed
Actually if you change the fueling just a bit you’ll do better on adding timing. I believe I have no less than 2.25 degrees added in the last two columns from 4K up. As long as your running 93 octane. I had to pull 1.5 degrees out when I came up to 27 psi tapering to 22-23. I had over 4 degrees added in the last 2 columns from 4K up and it didn’t knock retard or even read anything at all even in 105 degree weather. That was on 24 tapering to about 20-21. More boost even with less timing still makes more power at 3 psi more. I think I’m still running in the last two columns at 7k 15 and 13.25 degrees of timing. I didn’t take anything out there if I remember correctly. Even just adding timing on the hondata tune makes the top end soo much better. I’m certain if I had the big turbo I could add even more timing due to less heat during compression. There is a fine line where I think if I add any more boost I will have to pull too much timing to make more power. If you want pm me and maybe we can get together on what both of us have learned on this ecu. I have some great short cuts on building the tune fast with fuel and boost but ignition timing takes the most time with this car. There areas where I have 4 degrees added and only 2.25 on the same columns but different rpm. I took a LOT of time here. Also I took a fair amount if timing out low load to stop all burst knock cause the burst knock was pulling so much timing it was slowing turbo spool.
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