Infinity Components & Subwoofer w/ Alpine Mono Amp

[Matthyahuw]

I'm looking to use these in front:
Infinity Kappa 60.11CS 6-3/4" component speaker system
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Kappa-60-11CS-component-speaker/dp/B00B41LZ1M

I saw elsewhere that it's best to use the crossover/filter that comes with the speakers, especially for the tweeters to kill the harshness. Will I be able to salvage them from the crossover box you think???

I don't really want to just buy tweeters alone (I see the Polk's are rather popular), then some door speakers later and cobble-together something, I'd rather get something that works together, and I've always used Infinity Kappas as they're a great bang for your buck.

I also should be able to use the same set in the rear correct?

Also, WTH is the speaker in the dash for? is it just for Android Auto/CarPlay voices, or does it serve a purpose?
Is it worth replacing? Can you even buy a single 3.5" speaker???

Thanks guys!

Sponsored

 

[Matthyahuw]

I have the 10-speaker setup...forgot to mention.

are the crossovers built into the factory amps? So I wouldn't even need the crossover for the mids in the doors, eh?

 

[BarracksSi]

Sorry, I can't answer half of your questions -- the last setup I put together for my car was over twenty years ago, and it had two pairs of coaxials and a 10" sub with no crossovers (yes, really; high-pass caps on the coaxes and a low-pass coil on the sub, and it sounded pretty darned good).

About the center speaker: Yes, it's used for voice feedback, and I think it's used as a center music channel, especially with the neural surround turned on.

About the Infinity components: Have you listened to them? When I chose speakers for my car (again, 20 years ago), I took CDs to every shop in town and listened to everything I could, even the brands that were out of my price range. Some models that were featured in plenty of magazine installs sounded like crap to my ears. Some sounded pretty good, though, and those were the ones I bought. I'll never buy speakers without listening to them, just like I'll never buy shoes without trying them on.

 

[Matthyahuw]

I had the previous model in my last car, the 609CS, I liked them.
I wound up ordering this set on eBay w/ the 20% off coupon.
I'll probably just use the crossovers on the tweeters, or just wire in a different filter/cap to them.

I can document if anyone would like since there was a lack of answers here due to possibly just not enough experience with a component set with the 10-speaker system???

Thanks for the reply

 

[Matthyahuw]

So I just got these, and I'm testing out the tweeter installation.
I was surprised to the point of laughter at how easily it mounts...they literally screwed right in!

I didn't have to use the giant plastic threaded nut to clamp it down.
It was tough to get it threaded initially, but you can push the side that sticks up to get it to go in even. You can force a thread or two in is what I'm saying...it's nice & tight, and not going anywhere.

They fit well in the hole with the stock mounting hardware completely removed.

The only negative I can think of is that they do stick out some. But that's so you can adjust it left to right in its bucket. There's a screw in the rear to lock the position. It's mainly made for door sails w/o a mount to begin with. I'm assuming it would be awesome as well in non-10-speaker system that don't come w/ tweeters, but can't verify (obviously).

I'm going to leave the Infinity sticker off of it for more of a stock look.

If you were curious, Infinity uses a 5.6uF 100V filter.
I'm going to try it w/o the filter first, but I have a feeling I'll need it.
I hope I can salvage it from the Crossover box, but if not, there's plenty on eBay.

 

[Matthyahuw]

Here's what I have after it's all soldered together.
I was able to remove the filter from the crossover box and soldered it in-line.
I hot-glued it to the rear of the sail (top right in the pic w/ electrical tape around it).
I also took @galoki 's idea and salvaged the connector off of the old speaker.

added more electrical tape after this, and I'll connect it up and test it tomorrow, it's a bit late now...

 

[thatlilwhiteone]

I couldn't get mine too fit. I'll try again. I had the 10 speaker system that is x overed at the amp sot the infinity crossover made them sound bad, I just put the stock ones back in. Im adding an amp soon. What infinity you get .I got the infinity primus pr6500cs .

 

[Matthyahuw]

Link in 1st post.
I bought them on eBay however...

As for not screwing in, you just need to give it a slight push first, they'll go!

I'm going to try them with and without a high-pass filter, and I might even adjust the high-pass filter lower depending on how it sounds...

If it's still bad, we'll probably be stuck using an LC8i.

I wish there was an easy way to replace the factory amps...maybe someday...

 

[Jiryama]

How do you like the sound signature for the 60.11's? I ordered a pair of their Kappa 60csx and I bought the sails for my sport from honda parts, waiting to get them in and see how they perform!

I might not end up using the crossover that comes with this pair (Either using Audio Control crossover or the amp i'm getting LC-6.1200 amp which might be enough control with built in crossover) so if you run into problems or get an aftermarket amplifier, just message me and if I am not using them I can send them your way.

 

[Matthyahuw]

If you don't have the 10-speaker setup, definitely use the crossover the way it was intended.

I haven't done the full-install yet...just in the testing phase so far...I'll let you know!

 

[thatlilwhiteone]

Link in 1st post.
I bought them on eBay however...

As for not screwing in, you just need to give it a slight push first, they'll go!

I'm going to try them with and without a high-pass filter, and I might even adjust the high-pass filter lower depending on how it sounds...

If it's still bad, we'll probably be stuck using an LC8i.

I wish there was an easy way to replace the factory amps...maybe someday...

I bought an amp that has a built in dsp so I don't need to run RCA's. Just connect the amp like the lc8i and the connect the amp to the speakers. The amp doesn't even need a remote wire .It's an audiocontrol d4800. They have more amps with dsp and locs. I didn't want to mess with the audio, but the factory sub broke. Then I decided to change the front speakers. They sound better but not as good as they can. so I decided to put a amp in. The bug bit me

The tweeters will sound better if you just spliced into the factory tweeter wires. The crossover connected to the mids won't work right because the amp cuts out all the highs before the signal leaves the amp.

 

[Matthyahuw]

Installed one of the mids in the door yesterday evening. Didn't take any pics as it was 120 in the garage and I just wanted to get done. I'll take pics of the other one when I install it, just don't have time to do it now...

Here's the comparison tho:

Notice I reused the gasket.
Also, I'm not sure how others got the speaker adapters to screw into the door as they are thinner than Honda's, and I ran out of threads. I had to run to Home Depot and get fully-threaded screws.

Also, another tip, don't put the speakers in before installing the adapter. Not only are they crazy tight, the speaker surround of the Infinitys only fit in certain directions, and you won't know until the adapter is in. Unfortunately the screw I bought didn't allow me to use the pre-drilled holes in the adapter as well. It pushed the speaker down a bit with it's big head. I found one hole that worked, and drilled 3 others with a small bit. They screwed in fine after that and are solid.

I'll update with more pics later.

 

[Matthyahuw]

So the low end is obviously lacking in these sedans. In my last car (Altima) the rear deck had 6x9s (Infinity Kappas), and the low end was good enough for me with an aftermarket head unit (no amp).
These 6.5s just don't cut it for me, even after updating the speakers. I think most of us think this 8" built-in sub is useless (including me). So I bit the bullet and went with a sub.

I'm very happy with the result so far, and just need to fine tune it and hide the wires better.

Cost was just under $200 with the eBay 15% off coupon.
Components:
REF1200S 12" shallow-mount sub
Sealed Carpeted Slanted Slim Truck Box Enclosure (.7cu ft)
Alpine MRV-M250 Mono AMP
generic 4ga wiring kit.

I'm a Hard Rock kinda guy, and like tighter bass, and I found it a bit too boomy, so I'll adjust the crossover and whatnot until it's about right. I have a knob on order too...shoulda ordered it all together so I don't have to take things apart a second time...

 

[Matthyahuw]

Okay, so we'll start from the front.
I know most do it this way as well, but I've never wired an amp before (like I said 6x9s were always good enough for me w/ an aftermarket head unit).
Battery w/ fuse. one sheet metal screw in the heat shield

It goes down into the firewall where I made an 'X' w/ a long, thin pocketknife.
I've re-cable tied this since this pic as the tubing was slipping down.

I didn't get any shots of where I ran it up & around the fuse box (TOUGH to get up there!) I ran some more tubing up there as well since there was some metal brackets.
Standard door sill run, and here's with the back seat removed.
I ran a wire brush in a drill under the bolt there on the right, and that's where I picked up my ground.

I put the wires under a metal hoop there so the seat won't crush them and it runs up the back.
I'll wire it up the back-seat fabric here (but I didn't get to that just yet (busy weekend):

Here's just testing my wiring before screwing down. I only used the one line-level speaker input (from the sub). Thought I'd need to wire a L&R channel together (from the amp), but it worked just fine.

And here it is screwed into the back of the seat:

I'll clean up the wires later...like I said, busy weekend...
I didn't run the remote wire (blue) to either end as it's not needed, but I figured I'd just run it through since I had one, just in case, or in case I got an LC2i at some point.
Should have waited for the knob to show up, so now I have pull stuff up again. It wasn't horribly hard, but I'm in Phoenix, and it's still 100+ outside, so well over that in a garage. That's what made it hard, the sweat dripping down your face for 2-3hrs while doing this.

And here's the results:

 

[Matthyahuw]

I got the 'RUX' knob in, and pulled a blanking plate.
They're pretty thick & solid! I didn't think I would've had this much trouble with them.
Besides the hole drilled, the plastic was too thick to catch a thread for the retaining nut on the knob.
I took a huge drill bit behind the hole and chewed out some of the material before it effected the size of the hole.

I also had to cut up the plastic retaining walls behind the plate...there was a lot for a cheap blanking plate!
I wound up installing the knob sideways as that would mean the least amount of cutting without weakening the plate too much.

Here's the results:

And here's the way it sits with just slightly cutting the sides out:

For the curious, I just used a box cutter and a couple different drill bits.