How To Change The Oil In Your 10th Gen Honda Civic

HondaPro

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8-10k miles or 12 months on civics which ever comes first. Your car will tell you as your car showed 50% life left. After you change your oil? Start the car for 1 minute then turn off and check oil level. Add if needed. I like to let my oil drain for 1hr letting all contaminants fully drain out. Wheel locks are a added option not standard on all civics.
 
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8-10k miles or 12 months on civics which ever comes first. Your car will tell you as your car showed 50% life left. After you change your oil? Start the car for 1 minute then turn off and check oil level. Add if needed. I like to let my oil drain for 1hr letting all contaminants fully drain out. Wheel locks are a added option not standard on all civics.
Thanks for the info!
 

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12:35 -- 3.7 quarts, not ounces, yoo hoos. ;)

Where is this? Looks like a base hobby shop.
 


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I sure do miss having access to the hobby shop and px.
 

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I sure do miss having access to the hobby shop and px.
Retaining access has turned out to be a huge perk of retirement.

The only reason I have for going to the dealership for oil changes is to maintain a paper trail for warranty work. If I can do more stuff myself and not have to worry that I'd get docked on a technicality, that'd be great.
 

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Hey, thanks for the video and information. A few things caught my attention. According to my manual, for a tire rotation, fronts go straight back, rears cross when they go upfront. I don't think that's what you're saying, and maybe you do it differently. Also, while the 3/4" is pretty much spot on for a 19mm on the lug nuts, that oil drain bolt is 17mm, not 11/16".
I'm not trying to nitpick, thanks again for the video.
 


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Hey, thanks for the video and information. A few things caught my attention. According to my manual, for a tire rotation, fronts go straight back, rears cross when they go upfront. I don't think that's what you're saying, and maybe you do it differently. Also, while the 3/4" is pretty much spot on for a 19mm on the lug nuts, that oil drain bolt is 17mm, not 11/16".
I'm not trying to nitpick, thanks again for the video.
No worries thanks for the feed back!
 

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Do they stock crush washers at the shop, too? That's the one thing I'd do differently, but I guess if the old one holds, it's fine.
 

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God I wish I had access to a lift,lol
Awesome video! Just like to ask/add a few things.
The four screws across the front,is that specific to a sedan or Si? My car only requires the two Phillips head screws then the 1/4 turn fasteners. Just curious.
I found that the old oil drains faster and more thoroughly if I remove the filler cap first. I don't know if those crush washers should be reused or not, the dealer gave me a handful for nothing ,so for warranty sake,ill use them and lastly for people with OCD like me, the torque spec on the drain bolt is 30ft lbs.
 

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It is pretty awesome to be able to go use a lift on base... renting a bay out and even leaving it for a stretch of days if need be. I rarely ever use it... but I've been glad to have access to it when the need arose.
 

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God I wish I had access to a lift,lol
Awesome video! Just like to ask/add a few things.
The four screws across the front,is that specific to a sedan or Si? My car only requires the two Phillips head screws then the 1/4 turn fasteners. Just curious.
I found that the old oil drains faster and more thoroughly if I remove the filler cap first. I don't know if those crush washers should be reused or not, the dealer gave me a handful for nothing ,so for warranty sake,ill use them and lastly for people with OCD like me, the torque spec on the drain bolt is 30ft lbs.
With the crush washers... I'd say it's a should. I bought a bag of 50 washers years ago.. and still probably have 40. I've definitely reused them in the past with no I'll effect. When I got the Odyssey and 9th gen back to back new, I figured I try to be a bit more proper and replace them each time. I do think it let's you put the requisite torque (honestly probably well less) and have no leakage. The main thing to not cock up is to actually use the right wrench/socket... a 17mm as I recall. Otherwise you'll round off the drain plug over time and eventually need to replace it. I know the first time I broke the drain plug loose on the 9th gen and Odyssey it was *stupid* tight... way more than 30 ft/lbs. Same with the filter. I always just do filter by hand... prefilling, wiping the gasket with fresh oil, getting it firmly had tight, then doing an extra 1/4-1/8 of a turn with a filter socket so it's snug. I'm sure there a torque spec (there is with all things) but for many things, I'm a 'two finger good and tight' person with mid-sized sockets/wrenches. If you put your whole hand around a wrench/ratchet and gronk it... that's a lot of force. Stick to your index finger and thumb to apply pressure... you don't go too crazy. That's a me thing, and I'm not saying it's the right way by any means. I do have a torque wrench, but it doesn't get broke out for an oil change. I wouldn't call torquing things properly being OCD. I'd call it being thorough. For spark plugs... head bolts... etc... yep, I'm using it.

So far as the bolts, I have an Si sedan and that's what I remember seeing as well. Couldn't say if the others differ. I do know there was a pile of gravel sitting on the bottom when I had to take it off to grab something I dropped when installing my HIDs. I didn't know it had that bottom plate until then. It was stoked to see it. Good for aerodynamics.
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