How to Change Oil on 2016+ Civic 1.5L Turbo

  1. Rocky5000100

    Rocky5000100 Member

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    #1 Rocky5000100, Nov 27, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2016
    Hi all,

    New to the forum. I didn't see a detailed how to change the oil, so I thought I'd post it up for those considering doing it themselves. It's pretty straightforward.

    This is my wife's car, and unfortunately the dealer didn't offer any oil changes at time of purchase.

    This will show how to change the oil and filter. I know the manual says oil only for this first one, but I like to change the filter with every single oil change.

    Tools needed:
    -Phillips
    -Flathead
    -17mm socket
    -Oil filter wrench

    Consumables needed:

    -0w20 Synthetic oil of your choice. I used Mobil Synthetic today.
    -Oil Filter. I used OEM filter, part number 15400-PLM-A01. I bought a 5 pack on Amazon which included washers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACAMV22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    -Drain plug washer

    1. Drive car onto ramps, and apply parking brake. I also place wheel blocks at the rear wheels just in case.

    2. Remove the silver underbody panel under the engine. There are 6 flat head 1/4 turn screws, and 2 phillips. Once removed, the panel slides towards the rear of the car and falls down.

    IMG_20161127_144805_Ink_LI_zpspo1exonc.jpg
    IMG_20161127_144814_zpsyqioqr2t.jpg
    IMG_20161127_144811_zps18se9iuq.jpg

    3. Remove the oil drain plug using the 17mm socket. It's on there pretty tight if it's the first time being removed, so careful not to gouge your hands. Allow oil to drain out.

    IMG_20161127_145010_Ink_LI_zpslrryou6d.jpg
    IMG_20161127_145036_Ink_LI_zpsfzzhnfrh.jpg
    IMG_20161127_145255_zpsuaedr28q.jpg
    IMG_20161127_145358_zpsvmesmyoj.jpg

    4. Remove oil filter. The oil filter was on there so tight, I had to go and buy an oil filter tool from the store ($5.99). The oil begins draining from the filter as soon as you loosen it, so have your catch can ready. Allow oil to drain.

    IMG_20161127_151652_zpsxbopbpxa.jpg

    5. Install new oil filter. Rub a small amount of new oil around the seal before screwing on. The filters I use have a torque spec on them, but I just do them hand tight.

    6. Put new crush washer on drain bolt, and install drain bolt.

    7. Reinstall underbody panel. I found installing the two phillips first works best. Make sure the panel is in all 4 slots before tightening.

    8. Fill engine with oil. The fill hole is on the upper left hand side of the engine. Here I like to fill to just under, start the car, and drive it back to a level surface.

    Oil Capacity
    Without filter: 3.4 quarts
    With filter change: 3.7 quarts

    9. Allow car to run a minute or two, then shut off. Check oil level, and add more as needed. I usually check oil level a day or two after driving, just to make sure it's still good.
     
  2. PenguinMD

    PenguinMD Member

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    Do you have any strong opinions between the PLM-A01 vs PLM-A02 filters?
     
  3. bembol

    bembol SHIFT_

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    I hate these Underbody Panels, it's a PITA but thanks OP for the write up.

    I don't mind DIY but ran into this BS when my sister bought her 2010 Acura TSX. The dealer charges $79.99 for Synthetic oil change so the difference was $25 to DIY and told her to take it to Acura instead.

    My Murano has this but being a Crossover it sits higher off the ground so it's easier to DIY and I use Castrol 0W-30 and not sure if they'll agree to use it.

    I will DIY, I just don't trust dealerships. Since I got into DIY the only time I set go back is for warranty work.
     
  4. OP
    OP
    Rocky5000100

    Rocky5000100 Member

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    No, I just picked the A01 based on what I read in this thread:
    http://www.civicx.com/threads/oil-filter-oem-vs-oem.4351/

    My main reason for going for OEM filter is that while this car is under warranty, I want no pushback from the dealer should any issue arise. I know they wouldn't be be able to prove anything if I used a Fram (for example) instead, but this way they'll see the OEM filter and not attribute any issues to that. For a few extra dollars per filter, I figured it was worth any potential headaches while under warranty. I'm still way under cost for what the dealer would charge for an oil change as it is.
     
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  5. OP
    OP
    Rocky5000100

    Rocky5000100 Member

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    Yea, thankfully this one is easy to remove. I actually don't mind it, as it does protect the undercarraige from the salt, which is important up here in Wisconsin. While I had the panel off, I actually hit the parts of the frame that I could with Fluid Film. I've used it with great success on other cars, and other people's reviews are also positive.
     
  6. Truckin

    Truckin Senior Member

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    I think you did a great job on this write up! :thumbsup:
     
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  7. krav51

    krav51 Senior Member

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    Can you give me the make and model ramps you used? Thanks
     
  8. Snoopyslr

    Snoopyslr Senior Member

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    This needs to be stickied. Fantastic write up. @timothyjay
     
  9. Design

    Design Senior Member

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    Great write-up. Any reason why you don't remove or lossen the fill cap first?
     
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  10. Civics4Ever

    Civics4Ever Rally Red EXT

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    This is great for anyone that doesn't know how. I always DIY oil changes and I had no problems.
     
  11. timothyjay

    timothyjay Senior Member

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    Done!
     
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  12. OP
    OP
    Rocky5000100

    Rocky5000100 Member

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    They're so old I can't recall!

    I usually do remove it, but I didn't this time. It does help it drain a little bit faster, but isn't absolutely necessary.
     
  13. IronFusion

    IronFusion Senior Member

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    Anyone know if there is enough clearance from the drain plug to the underbody panel to replace the drain plug bolt with a drain valve? I'd like to be able to do this, and attach a hose that runs directly into my can/pan and not drop any oil. I have an extractor too, which should make for faster drains.
     
  14. Sman

    Sman Senior Member

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    I'm planning on getting one. Here is a thread about others using one
    http://www.civicx.com/threads/fumoto-valve-for-oil-drain-pan.6884/
     
  15. ArmyHokie

    ArmyHokie New Member

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    Is there a torque spec for the drain bolt? A couple tips I've seen in the past:
    1. Drive a few miles first to warm up the oil so it flows out more easily. Just be careful of hot oil/parts underneath.
    2. Wear disposable rubber gloves. Have some rags or shop towels handy.
    3. Be prepared to move your oil catch pan as the flow changes.
    4. Wipe the drain plug surround and oil filter surround clean before replacing each to ensure no gasket/washer material remains.
    5. Recommend checking for leaks after adding oil and running the engine for a few minutes before reinstalling the under tray.
    6. Recycle your oil. Give a hoot, don't pollute.
     
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