How to Adjust Front Camber on a Tenth Gen Civic

[werdna]

Sounds like you are going to have to get up under the nut to try to pry/pop it out. Try to put something between your prying tool and the painted surface to protect it from scratches.

Holy shit, this worked like a charm. Came out so easily, phew.. thank you!

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[lurker_j]

Anyone know the size of the nut to bolt on?

 

[Hondanickx]

Great find! Looking from the picture the studs are located in the middle from factory .So +/- 19 " (minutes) means you can adjust camber postive or negative 19 " from stock. Also great way to reduce camber if you are lowered.
19" (minutes) is 0.31 degrees of camber. (19 / 60 = 0.316)
I Am sure in the future there will be adaptor plates available which can adjust more camber.
Or even better a adjustable strut bar would also work great.

 

[lurker_j]

A tire shop doing my alignment today told me that to do the front camber, theyd have to disassemble my front strut and flip it 180 in the set up. Pretty sure he was just bullshitting me so I would tell him "no its okay, just leave the camber as it is" and he could go home as it was getting close to the closing hour. I found this thread and called the bullshit.

 

[CyberCT]

This may sound super dumb but can someone make a quick YouTube video on how to do this? I don't want to screw anything up but really want to do this.

 

[360glitch]

A tire shop doing my alignment today told me that to do the front camber, theyd have to disassemble my front strut and flip it 180 in the set up. Pretty sure he was just bullshitting me so I would tell him "no its okay, just leave the camber as it is" and he could go home as it was getting close to the closing hour. I found this thread and called the bullshit.

I would almost be tempted to take them up on that offer and see what in the world they actually do.

 

[lurker_j]

I would almost be tempted to take them up on that offer and see what in the world they actually do.

Lol I wish I had that kind of extra time to troll them

 

[bahndrvr]

Lol I wish I had that kind of extra time to troll them

Actually a thing on Toyotas when dealing with 4wd's, but I had this suspension apart and the pillow tops are differnt so pretty sure wouldn't work...

 

[nickname]

I had to show this to the tech and manager at Honda of Spring.

Apparently they had been doing alignments incorrectly.

My service advisor literally emailed the Honda procedures to herself.

I won this debate but I would advise anyone in the Houston area to avoid Honda of Spring.

 

[nickname]

Ok I'm confused.

Is this not an OE part?
If not, where do I get it?
And how easy/hard to install.

 

[Yonder]

Ok I'm confused.

Is this not an OE part?
If not, where do I get it?
And how easy/hard to install.

Its an OE part that is on the car when purchased. If you look at your front strut tower bolts, you'll 3 of them that have nuts and one that doesnt.
The one that doesnt have anything screwed down to it, is the Guide pin. Once you remove them (on each strut tower) and loosen the nuts on your strut tower... Your strut towers will naturally slide in to the furthest point of the slotted strut holes. you'll change your front camber by -0.5 (or at least somewhere near that amount).

Most people use this mod (procedure i guess lol) for clearance but the extra -0.5 also aids with handling. Here is an exert from some FF alignment setups for different driving goals.
"lack of front camber causes the tire to roll onto the outside edge under extreme cornering; so the harder you push the car, the less grip you have. Ever felt your car understeer when pushed really hard through a corner? To combat this problem, it's important to set the front camber more negative"

Now -0.5 isnt going to make a huge difference but it sure wont hurt and you'll be able to fit wider tires due to the clearance. Thus, pushing you in the right direction for optimal handling.

 

[nickname]

Its an OE part that is on the car when purchased. If you look at your front strut tower bolts, you'll 3 of them that have nuts and one that doesnt.
The one that doesnt have anything screwed down to it, is the Guide pin. Once you remove them (on each strut tower) and loosen the nuts on your strut tower... Your strut towers will naturally slide in to the furthest point of the slotted strut holes. you'll change your front camber by -0.5 (or at least somewhere near that amount).

Most people use this mod (procedure i guess lol) for clearance but the extra -0.5 also aids with handling. Here is an exert from some FF alignment setups for different driving goals.
"lack of front camber causes the tire to roll onto the outside edge under extreme cornering; so the harder you push the car, the less grip you have. Ever felt your car understeer when pushed really hard through a corner? To combat this problem, it's important to set the front camber more negative"

Now -0.5 isnt going to make a huge difference but it sure wont hurt and you'll be able to fit wider tires due to the clearance. Thus, pushing you in the right direction for optimal handling.

I purchased the car pre-owned and it looked as if there was some type of front-end Collision. But a 2016 touring for the price of a entry-level was unbeatable.

My car never had those black things on top of the strut. Are those items I can order from a Honda so I can get my Camber adjusted correctly?

Two Honda dealerships. I've taken the vehicle to say my subframe is bent.

I took it to an independent shop and he recommended elongating the lower bolt hole on the strut. I don't want to do this, 1) The metal will lose its integrity and have extra play that Honda did not include; 2) Honda won't align it.

Would this black thing on top of the strut help resolve that issue?

Or am I likely looking at a new sub frame Sub frame / cradle?

P.S. (?)
PS (?)
PS; (?)
PS: (?)

The vehicle has been in a few collisions on the driver side. ( Me hitting things.) There's a gnarly witness mark on the driver's side Subframe, Also for some reason my radiator slopes down at a right angle and is loose on that side..

Subframe and radiator support?

Parts replaced:
1. LCA
2. LCA ball joint
3. CV
4. Stablizer bar (link, whatever)
3. TIRES (installed at 3 p.m., aligned at 4 p.m.; approximately 40 miles.)

The end.

Or is it?

 

[nickname]

Its an OE part that is on the car when purchased. If you look at your front strut tower bolts, you'll 3 of them that have nuts and one that doesnt.
The one that doesnt have anything screwed down to it, is the Guide pin. Once you remove them (on each strut tower) and loosen the nuts on your strut tower... Your strut towers will naturally slide in to the furthest point of the slotted strut holes. you'll change your front camber by -0.5 (or at least somewhere near that amount).

Most people use this mod (procedure i guess lol) for clearance but the extra -0.5 also aids with handling. Here is an exert from some FF alignment setups for different driving goals.
"lack of front camber causes the tire to roll onto the outside edge under extreme cornering; so the harder you push the car, the less grip you have. Ever felt your car understeer when pushed really hard through a corner? To combat this problem, it's important to set the front camber more negative"

Now -0.5 isnt going to make a huge difference but it sure wont hurt and you'll be able to fit wider tires due to the clearance. Thus, pushing you in the right direction for optimal handling.

Do any of yall know the part #?

 

[Yonder]

I purchased the car pre-owned and it looked as if there was some type of front-end Collision. But a 2016 touring for the price of a entry-level was unbeatable.

My car never had those black things on top of the strut. Are those items I can order from a Honda so I can get my Camber adjusted correctly?

Two Honda dealerships. I've taken the vehicle to say my subframe is bent.

I took it to an independent shop and he recommended elongating the lower bolt hole on the strut. I don't want to do this, 1) The metal will lose its integrity and have extra play that Honda did not include; 2) Honda won't align it.

Would this black thing on top of the strut help resolve that issue?

Or am I likely looking at a new sub frame Sub frame / cradle?

P.S. (?)
PS (?)
PS; (?)
PS: (?)

The vehicle has been in a few collisions on the driver side. ( Me hitting things.) There's a gnarly witness mark on the driver's side Subframe, Also for some reason my radiator slopes down at a right angle and is loose on that side..

Subframe and radiator support?

Parts replaced:
1. LCA
2. LCA ball joint
3. CV
4. Stablizer bar (link, whatever)
3. TIRES (installed at 3 p.m., aligned at 4 p.m.; approximately 40 miles.)

The end.

Or is it?

All we are referring to are these guide pins shown below. If you car doesnt have them, then they were probably removed during repairs for some reason. So if you wanted to do this mod... you can just loosen the strut tower nuts a bit and the struts would then lean into its most negative position.

 

[nickname]

All we are referring to are these guide pins shown below. If you car doesnt have them, then they were probably removed during repairs for some reason. So if you wanted to do this mod... you can just loosen the strut tower nuts a bit and the struts would then lean into its most negative position.

Yes, those are removed.

What are those black brackets that wrap around the top of the strut?

My car does not have this.

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