Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM

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Mini update on my fuel trims.

Despite having the stock intake installed, fuel trims remain negative. After googling, came across this paragraph:

" Excessive crankcase vapors or a flooded EVAP canister can also mimic excess fuel, especially at idle. If the oil hasn’t been changed in a long time, especially in an older engine with a bit of blow-by, fuel in the oil can drive total fuel trim negative. Often simply changing the oil will demonstrate this condition by returning the fuel trim numbers to normal."

This makes me think about the oil dilution issue. This is only the second winter I have the car but the first tuned and most importantly, the first when I monitor the engine. I had checked the oil levels two to three weeks ago and it was slightly overfilled but not concerning. At the time however, ambient temps were normal to high. I do a daily commute of 20 minutes/ 22 km and the car is warmed up properly only when I get to work and actually have to switch it off. The proper way of understanding if the engine is heated up is the oil temp, not the water temp. Since we cannot monitor oil temps, what I do is turn the heater on and see if the water temp drops. If it does, my guess is that the engine is not warm enough. I start driving after 1 minute when I do a cold start, drive very conservatively for 10-12 minutes and then drive slightly faster or a gear down for another 10 minutes when the weather is cold.

I have arranged for a full service next week (I do oil change at 5000-6000km max, now I have 30000km and will also do MTF, rear diff and spark plugs) but I will return the car to stock tomorrow and do the oil/oil filter change as soon as possible and see how things go. I will not unlock Ktuner from the car so I can monitor the engine on the factory maps.

UPDATE: Today I changed oil and oil filter. In theory, oil change filter included is 3.5 liters. We did 3.3, started the car for the filter to fill up and re checked. The dipstick showed it was missing 500ml which stroke as weird. Added another 200, still showed that it needed another 250ml. I did not add them. Stopped at 3.5 as the manual states.

I drove for only 3km back to work. The trims are already looking better. I will check for another 2 days and see how the trims go. First impression is that the fuel trims issue was caused by oil dilution.

UPDATE 2: Fuel trims with the stock airbox went back to normal. Only slightly negative. Reinstalled the PRL SRI and trims are also back to normal, dead 0 on highway with steady throttle and slightly negative in traffic. All I do now is let the car idle for 3 minutes instead of 1 after a cold start.

It seems that the issue was oil dilution. Tbh the ambient temps dropped back to 32-37F while my testing after the oil change it was about 45-50. Will keep monitoring.
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So today I installed the AEM intake for the CR-V 1.5T

Box arrived quite sooner than expected, nothing missing and great packaging!

Installation wasnt as quick as the PRL SRI obviously. Not too big of a hassle though. When I removed the stock airbox, I left the grommet on the spike where the stock airbox mounts. I though it was not removable. Turns out it is! Unfortunally it got "lost" as it probably fell off.

So whoever removes the stock airbox for an SRI, remember to remove the grommet also.

The box came with black and white instructions which are always welcome. The whole process of removing the PRL SRI (about 30 seconds) and installing the AEM intake did not take more than 15 minutes

Fotos below. Please pay attention to the second to last foto. The AEM box is metallic and quite sharp. It touches the cable that goes to the ECU. Due to the engine vibrations, this might trim the cable plastic cover. For this reason, I simply put a rubber piece in between so I dont have any issues in the future. A very nice touch is that there is a hole for inserting the stock MAF cable so it wont just float around.

Sound wise, the intake sounds nice when the throttle is open. It roars almost as much as the PRL. Fuel trims on the other hand do not seem to be as spot on as the PRL, but not too concerning. IATs are similar to stock, slightly lower maybe. Also, the turbo lag is reduced. The overall feeling and IATs are close to the stock airbox and the butt dyno doesnt feel a difference either with the PRL or the stock airbox. In any case the ganis are minimal so the butt dyno doesnt really work.

The blow off valve sound is gone, much like the stock airbox. I will give it a try without the lid to see how it sounds and how are the IATs.

My first impression after driving for only 7 miles is that this is a "summer" intake and the PRL SRI is a "winter" intake. To be honest, I am not sure that it is worth the money over the stock airbox since the sound is better only when you step on the throttle aggresively and while the IATs are in fact lower than the stock airbox, they do not match those of the PRL SRI when the weather is cold or the vehicle is mobile over 50mph.
I will keep the lid on for a couple of days and then remove it to see the overall behaviour and sound.

Worst part for me is that the trims are not as spot on as those of the PRL.

Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem1


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem2


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem3


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem4


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem5


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem6


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem7


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem8


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem9


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem10


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem11


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem12


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM aem13
 
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Tried also with the lid off. Blow off sound is there but not as loud. Without the lid, IATs are somewhere in between the SRI and the stock airbox.

Overall IATs behaviour is still closer to that of the stock airbox.

I would keep it without the lid as it seems to be the best combo for some heat shielding in traffic and sound and install the lid in summer BUT the trims are not very good.

Well in highway speeds the trims are within range, only slightly off compared to PRL. So not a real issue. In traffic though, trims are way more to the negative than PRL. With the SRI in stop and go traffic i d get STFT of down to -7 and of course the LFTF would follow but is general I d be within the total sum of "10" when adding STFT and LFTF. In highway speeds the PRL would be almost dead 0, so spot on.

For the AEM this is not the case. I started off with LFTF of -5 with the PRL and after 12 miles of AEM doing 50-65mph and 4 minutes of traffic, LTFT creeped down to -9...STFT in traffic is -5 to -9 and highway speeds -1 to -3.

I think the best solution is custom tuning the AEM. With the PRL I d say its not mandatory. Since I have two intakes, I should ideally have 2 custom tunes, one for PRL and one for AEM.

I ll leave it on for a few more days and then go back to PRL.

Now that I am truly done with intakes, I ll start the intercooler experiment. The CRV outlet pipe mounting joint is different than that of the civic. I ll order an OEM intercooler outlet pipe and the Injen intercooler. Then have both to an exhaust shop so we can make a custom mounting joint that fits the Injen and weld it on a pipe that maintains stock diameter and routing. The OEM piping looks like metal but could be aluminium so I dont know if we can cut it or not, so buying a spare one is the safest way to go at this point.
 
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If anyone wants to FULLY DISABLE VSA on their CRV, I can confirm that the infamous "pedal dance" works on the V as well.

MIND THAT THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED ON PUBLIC ROADS.

Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM MEME2020-02-19-08-06-37
 

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Hey Anger.

I'm looking into the 27won turbo inlet pipe, and I was looking at our current setup and saw this part.

Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200219_150414


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200219_145952


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200219_150607
 


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Hey Anger.

I'm looking into the 27won turbo inlet pipe, and I was looking at our current setup and saw this part.

20200219_150414.jpg


20200219_145952.jpg


20200219_150607.jpg
I am also interested in the Turbo inlet pipe. I saw the update on the 27WON blog. I hope it will fit ours as well. They said they ll release more info next week although I fear it will be really expensive.

That hose is also present on the Si as well as the 27WON turbo inlet pipe. You can see it in the first foto of their part4 blog post. I think it leads back to the intake charge pipe, its propably for recerculating excessive air.
 
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Here is something else I found today. Looks like the prl t.i.pipe has a fitting for this part.

https://prlmotorsports.com/2016Civic1.5TTurboInletPipe.aspx

Decisions decisions
Based on the PRL blog, it is probably an evaporation port. I guess with have to wait for both companies to release their inlet pipes and then choose! Both fit the stock or drop-in turbochargers but both should also fit stock or any aftermarket intake. I will look further if PRL dropped any hint about ETA on this. I guess my choice will be based on a combination of release date and pricing. I am certain that both of them do an awesome job.
 

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If anyone wants to FULLY DISABLE VSA on their CRV, I can confirm that the infamous "pedal dance" works on the V as well.

MIND THAT THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED ON PUBLIC ROADS.

MEME2020-02-19-08-06-37.jpg
What exactly does this do?
Would be interested to know a bit more.
also can this be turned back on for winter....

Thanks Anger... you are the man.
 
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this removes completely the safety net of VSA. Its like having an old school car, no electronics to step on the brakes for you or cut the throttle when the car has lost its balance. The only assist still working is the ABS. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND TO NOT TURN IT OFF.
 


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So I finally found some time to spare to install the intercooler. This is by far the most difficult installation on this car, at least until now. There are many issues to consider so for those interested, here is the breakdown:

First and most important part: If your CR-V has the active shutter grill system in front of the intercooler, installing an aftermarket intercooler is extremely difficult. There is a guy who has done it, it is doable BUT not recommended.

If your CR-V does not have the active shutter grill system (I think the 2020 model in the USA does not have it), you need to consider the space available. After going through the dimensions of all well known intercoolers on the market, I ended up with Injen because its the shortest one so I thought I d have enough clearance between the intercooler and the crush beam. It is possible that a taller and thinner intercooler might fit but I cant be certain.

The main issue was not the height with the Injen intercooler. The problem is that since this IC is destined for a civic X, it is significantly less wide than necessary. So when trying to fit it, it can bolt on the hot side no problem BUT is not wide enough to reach the cold side mounting points while clearing the A/C radiator. In order to resolve that, a custom flange adaptor was fabricated, 24mm wide. On the pipe side, an O-ring mounting circle was also fabricated in order to make sure there will be no leaks. By moving the intercooler to the left however, meant that the mounting point didnt line up with the factory mounting hole. Thefore, the intercooler mounting point was completely cut off and the new flange had one welded on.

After figuring out the cold side, the issues on the hot side were similar. Firstly, the intercooler flange doesnt line up with the cold side stock pipe. For this reason I bought an OEM civic pipe. The main difference is not only the allignment but also the fact that the CRV one is alluminium while the civic one is plastic. Still, it fits the rubber hose (under the intake) just like a glove, so the allignment issue was solved. By moving the intercooler to the right, the cold side mounting point also didnt allign. What we did is fabricate a polyurethane bushing which fit the stock location but wider so the intercooler would sit inside it.

Once that was out of the way we realised that we were 20mm away from the cold side pipe. Another flange was fabricated, also with an O ring mounting hole.

Lastly, the ambient air temperature mounting point which resides on the beam was slightly trimmed so it wouldnt hit the intercooler.

The intercooler bracket on the cold side fitted just fine. We just used an adapter for the bolt to reach the mounting point. For the hot side, we simply used a piece of aluminium, run two holes in it and thats it!

The bumper was a pain to fit however. I have the Honda access lower trim which has plastic reinforcements on the inside. Those were hitting against the intercooler. With a thinner IC, it wouldnt be an issue. But since I went for short and fat instead of tall and thin, I saved myself the trouble of having no space towards the beam, but ended up having no space towards the bumper. Thankfully, the reinforcement is installed using clips which were removed without cutting or braking anything. Fun part is that also the stock rubber air guides did not have to be cut off to install the intercooler and were reinstalled exactly like stock!

Absolutely NOTHING was cut or modified on the car! NOTHING! It can go back to stock and noone will ever know! The intercooler on the other hand cannot be used on another vehicle. No harm, no foul as the car was left intact!

Didnt get to drive much after the installation but the lower IAT2s were obvious! Everything we used was high quality alluminium and inox bolts so they will be rust free. We even painted the new bushing so it will look like stock!

Overall process took 8 to 9 hours including test fitment, flanges and bushing fabrication. I will post more fotos soon!

Hot side flange with mounting point welded on
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_160352


Hot side flange installed
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_163935


Cold side. IC doesnt reach the pipe while mounting point doesnt line up with the hole.
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_164324


Cold side flange installed and new bushing painted black installed
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_190449


This is the new bushing on cold side while we were test fitting
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_173757


Cold side. Plenty of space between pipe, intercooler and A/C
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_190844


Ambient temperature sensor mounting point. Slightly trimmed.
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_192303


All set
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_193314


Bumper on
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_212343


Barely fits the bumper but it actually does!
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_200317
 
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A few more fotos

Close up of the cold side with the intercooler misalligned.
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_164517


It seemed there was plenty of space below the IC for the bumper but turns out there wasnt!
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_171446


IC has plenty of room from the A/C
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_171504


Test fitting the bushing. The bottom has the stock hole dimensions but we madw an extra smaller hole to the right so the IC mounting point would sit in
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_173759


Cold side stock bracket. A small inox extention was placed between the brwcket and the car
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_180138


Cold side done
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_191403


Hot side bracket. A small alluminium piece painted black was fabricated since the bracket wouldnt line up to the original hole
Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20200731_191741
 
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So drove the car a bit and got an idea of the IAT2 after the intercooler installation.

The temps are definitely lower than stock, but that is rather expected. Ambient temps during this time of the year are around 32 celcius / 89F. In low speeds and traffic, IAT2 is usually lower than IAT by 2 to 3 celcius / 35F, while on stock IC the IAT2 was identical to IAT. The intercooler doesnt heatsoak as quickly as stock and I have seen differences in heavy traffic between IAT and IAT2 up to 7 Celcius / 44F.

But I did test also under extreme heat. Ambient temp was at 100F. First test was on the highway.I drove quickly anywhere from 90 mph up to 140. Like, getting to 130, dropping to 90, then back to 80mph and then up to 140 again and keeping that speed for 20 or so seconds. Run like that for about 10 minutes. The IAT2 unfortunately was sky high, much like stock. It went up to 118F maybe more, I need to check the datalogs. To be honest I havent pushed as hard in such heat on the stock intercooler BUT IAT2 was HIGHER than IAT much like when you are on the stock intercooler. I didnt know what to expect, I guess I believed that under heavy pressure IAT2 would not surpass IAT with an aftermarket intercooler.

I also did pulls from 2nd to 4th gears, 25mph to 105mph. Again, IAT2 was higher than IAT by 2 or 3 celcius / 37F. On the stock IC, IAT2 would be much higher but still I expected better. Maybe the ambient temps were too extreme for the intercooler to handle anyway.

On the clearly positive side, I do think the intake noise increased and got a sportier tone which is obviously placebo but still feels good to hear! When temps drop I do hope for better performance in comparison to the stock IC.
 
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Yesterday my dealership installed the PRL catted downpipe. After about 1km, the CEL popped up. While I expected P0420, it was P0139 after all! The car still drove just fine. There is a slight increase in noise but its so discreet you forget about it after a few miles. Still, the car does sound more... mean and I am pretty sure it sounds even better from a bystander POV.

The heatahield does not sit exactly like on the stock downpipe, but I dont think its something to worry about.

Havent driven much yet but the turbo is definately more eager to spool! Next in line: custom tuning!
 

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Hello all,

This may be a civicx forum but I am pretty sure you know that not many people are interested in tuning the CRV! I have read and learned a lot here and I find it only fair to share whichever information and tune I do on my car. Besides, someone may find it interesting even on this forum!

My car has a manual transmission. The gearing is almost identical to the Si, slightly shorter with the exception of the final gear ratio, which is 4.7, while the civic has 4.1. In case someone is interested in tuning the civic over 350hp and wheel spin will become a major issue, having a longer final gear may come in handy.

Exterior-wise, I installed the Honda Access front splitter, side panels and rear bumper spoiler, all factory painted NH883-P Platinum White pearl. Performance-wise, I have installed custom mufflers. I have seen people completely removing the backboxes, but the sound isnt ideal and the growling disappears. That is why I chose to go for smaller than stock mufflers and increase the exhaust tips diameter. Stock exhaust outer diameter is 54mm and then spits to two 48mm pipes leading to the mufflers.

I will be installing a PRL SRI street MAF, since after a lot of part number cross-referencing, google searching and information shared with another person who went for the CAI, I came to the conclusion that the V shares the civic Si MAF housing. I know that the CAI is the proper way to go performance-wise, but it is not a bolt-on installation. Neither is the SRI, but I will need to built myself only a small custom bracket for the MAF housing.

Neither Hondata or Ktuner have jailbroken any manual ECUs yet. I have emailed them both and K-tuner seemed to be way more friendly and helpful. I will connect my ECU to a Ktuner device, harvest all sorts of DATA that is useful to Ktuner and send it to them. Most gains obviously come from the ECU tuning, so after I am done with the intake, I will move forward with this. Even after the car is flashed, I will retain the street MAF since I want the dual ECON function.

As far as ICs are concerned, noone has designed a bolt-on intercooler for the CRV. The actual intercooler has the same size as the civic's but the CRV requires longer tubes and the civic IC has narrower fitting points. I will attempt installing a PRL IC probably but the fitting will be very difficult. Maybe either them or Mishimoto will take a look at the CRV, since there are literally hundreds of thousands of units already sold and the car became available to the EU market only a few months back. I am pretty sure many other people will become interested in tuning this platform as well, as there is huge potential. All EUDM models run on 95RON minimum. I run it on Shell V-power 97RON. I use Mobil 1 0w-30 full synthetic oil and I do a full oil/filter change every 5000km. No oil dilution here. I do not warm up the car more than 1 minute (as I did with my EP3 and FN2 Type-Rs) and drive slowly before parking the car. Rev-hang is present on the V as well and is quite annoying to be honest.

Thanks to this great community, I d be happy to help any way I can!

crv exhaust1.jpg


crv exhaust2.jpg


crv exhaust3.jpg


crv exhaust4.jpg


crv exhaust5.jpg


crv exhaust6.jpg
LOVE IT !!! May I ask what mufflers did you install, absolutely beautiful work, smart and logical. Keep up the build and hard work, can’t wait to see the end result, thank you so much for the inspiration !!!
 


 


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