Headunit and Amp install - Wire routing - Sport hatch

Shinjari

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Good morning Civicx,

Was starting to gather my parts for my headunit install. I was wondering how people were routing their power wire from the battery to the cabin for their amps?

Is there a fairly obvious grommet in the firewall that would work? I've looked in the engine bay maybe twice since picking the car up Thursday so I haven't dug deep.

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-p8400bt have this laying around from previous car, worked great just doesnt have android auto. Or I'm considering the Sony XAV-AX100 for android auto, volume knob and the OEM-like look...plus about $100-150 less than a pioneer/kenwood, though the kenwoods allow to use the OEM mic which is a nice plus.

Trim: Metra 95-7812B

Wiring: Metra 70-1731 for wiring, 40-HD11 for antenna, and AX-TOYUSB or PAC USB-TY1.
Still have the ASWC-1 as well so just need to rewire the new wiring

Front door speakers: Kicker 6.5" 43DSC6504 2 ways.

Amp: Kenwood KAC-M3001 mono amp 300w @ 2ohm rms

Sub: Kicker CompRt 8" 43TCWRT82 compact sub box with passive radiator

Or if I'm being lazy I could just get a LOC and use the stock HU...but I think the audio controls are lacking.

At this point I know that the rear view camera will only work with 1 view mode and the factory MIC will not work unless I have a Kenwood HU. Wonder if the Sony is similar, know the Pioneers wont work.

Thanks in advance for any guidance/opinions.
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geolemon

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I haven't done this yet myself, but worst case there's generally a main harness that passes through the firewall via a larger rubber boot. I usually carefully poke a small hole in that boot (I use a long, sharp woodworking lathe chisel - I happen to have one that's 24" long) and run a fishtape through it, then use duct tape around the end of the wire bridging to around the fish tape to pull it through. If you can find a dedicated blank rubber grommet large enough, that's accessible from both sides of the firewall, that might be even better.

And although it's slightly more work - don't run your sensitive low-level signal RCAs down the same side of the car as the power wires. And for lord's sake - don't use the RCA's center grounding (for noise rejection) wire to use as a remote turn on lead wire lol (and run it down the side of the vehicle you run the power wire, not the side you run the the signal wire).

I'll be doing this shortly, as I pull the power wire and components from my current lease Optima and stuffing it into my new lease Civic Hatch. I'll have to post some pics.

In my case, I'm not replacing the head unit (again: lease), but I may not necessarily do something as passive as a LOC either. AudioControl makes some great processors, the DM-608 is high on my list but pricey - but I'm also looking into competitors - not sure there's one that has all the sound-shaping capability as that one and it's bigger brother DM-801, however.
Good read on basics: https://www1.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/factory/sound_processors.html
For just adding a subwoofer though - I'd just do an LOC.

Good luck!
 
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I was able to find a good grommet to use in the firewall. Being able to use an OEM mic would be nice but like yourself I had a nice Pioneer from my last car that I installed into the Civic. I was initially worried about losing rear view camera angles but the one you are left with actually works very well.
 
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Shinjari

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I haven't done this yet myself, but worst case there's generally a main harness that passes through the firewall via a larger rubber boot. I usually carefully poke a small hole in that boot (I use a long, sharp woodworking lathe chisel - I happen to have one that's 24" long) and run a fishtape through it, then use duct tape around the end of the wire bridging to around the fish tape to pull it through. If you can find a dedicated blank rubber grommet large enough, that's accessible from both sides of the firewall, that might be even better.

And although it's slightly more work - don't run your sensitive low-level signal RCAs down the same side of the car as the power wires. And for lord's sake - don't use the RCA's center grounding (for noise rejection) wire to use as a remote turn on lead wire lol (and run it down the side of the vehicle you run the power wire, not the side you run the the signal wire).

I'll be doing this shortly, as I pull the power wire and components from my current lease Optima and stuffing it into my new lease Civic Hatch. I'll have to post some pics.

In my case, I'm not replacing the head unit (again: lease), but I may not necessarily do something as passive as a LOC either. AudioControl makes some great processors, the DM-608 is high on my list but pricey - but I'm also looking into competitors - not sure there's one that has all the sound-shaping capability as that one and it's bigger brother DM-801, however.
Good read on basics: https://www1.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/factory/sound_processors.html
For just adding a subwoofer though - I'd just do an LOC.

Good luck!
Totally all things I'd do. Instead of a fancy fishtape I got my trusty wire hangers haha. And yeah definitely running power away from signal wires.

Where are people with hatchbacks putting their amps? Under the seat? In the spare tire area? My mono amp is tiny enough I was considering the glove box, thats where it was in my previous car. Only concern I had lingering in my head was in the event of a crash, would it turn into a projectile....probably so maybe under the seat is best.

I was able to find a good grommet to use in the firewall. Being able to use an OEM mic would be nice but like yourself I had a nice Pioneer from my last car that I installed into the Civic. I was initially worried about losing rear view camera angles but the one you are left with actually works very well.
What side of the engine did you find this grommet? Closer to the driver or passenger side?

The view remaining is the "fish eye" view isnt it? Hopefully someone figures out a somewhat elegant way to use the 3 views. I think I'm just going to put the mic on top of the A-pillar or remove the OEM mic and put it in there. Maybe I'll sell this pioneer and use that money towards a kenwood...but then again...not sure its worth the $$$ since this pioneer did me well in the last car. Maybe if it dies I'll replace with a kenwood...*knock on wood*
 

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Totally all things I'd do. Instead of a fancy fishtape I got my trusty wire hangers haha. And yeah definitely running power away from signal wires.

Where are people with hatchbacks putting their amps? Under the seat? In the spare tire area? My mono amp is tiny enough I was considering the glove box, thats where it was in my previous car. Only concern I had lingering in my head was in the event of a crash, would it turn into a projectile....probably so maybe under the seat is best.



What side of the engine did you find this grommet? Closer to the driver or passenger side?

The view remaining is the "fish eye" view isnt it? Hopefully someone figures out a somewhat elegant way to use the 3 views. I think I'm just going to put the mic on top of the A-pillar or remove the OEM mic and put it in there. Maybe I'll sell this pioneer and use that money towards a kenwood...but then again...not sure its worth the $$$ since this pioneer did me well in the last car. Maybe if it dies I'll replace with a kenwood...*knock on wood*
The driver side. You can remove the OEM mic and put the Pioneer mic there. Someone came up with a way to keep all three views but I'm not sure that anyone ever did the work to try it. It was fairly sophisticated (unless you are an electrical engineer). I installed my amp under the driver's seat.
 


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Shinjari

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Check here to how to run power cable from battery to the back for power sub or amps install.

http://www.civicx.com/threads/diy-install-subwoofer-in-non-touring-p300-10.5478/page-2
Thanks, will give it a read

The driver side. You can remove the OEM mic and put the Pioneer mic there. Someone came up with a way to keep all three views but I'm not sure that anyone ever did the work to try it. It was fairly sophisticated (unless you are an electrical engineer). I installed my amp under the driver's seat.
I'm just a mechanical engineer...but I do work with some electrical engineers that might be able to help. I think I saw what you were talking about. They had a schematic and were talking shunts and resistors and what not. I'll have to try and find that again.
 

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Thanks, will give it a read



I'm just a mechanical engineer...but I do work with some electrical engineers that might be able to help. I think I saw what you were talking about. They had a schematic and were talking shunts and resistors and what not. I'll have to try and find that again.
I think if someone can build those and they actually work that they could probably sell a fair many of them.
 
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Shinjari

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I think if someone can build those and they actually work that they could probably sell a fair many of them.
Totally understand. I'll see if I can dig up that schematic again and run it by them. =)
 

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I'm just a mechanical engineer...but I do work with some electrical engineers that might be able to help. I think I saw what you were talking about. They had a schematic and were talking shunts and resistors and what not. I'll have to try and find that again.
If it's that simple, that could be an easy DIY project if they can put up a schematic.

I was assuming there was a dedicated video processor inside the factory head unit, to manipulate the video signal into the three views... That wouldn't be something you could knock up quick, if so.
But generally, the aftermarket goes pretty amazingly far to solve OEM issues where they've embedded needed circuitry into factory head units...

Older GM cars used to have a loooong cable to relocate and retain factory head units to the trunk (via just the wires that were needed) before someone replicated the actual circuitry and offered a fancier harness that simply included a small box to bury inside the dash.

With the early 00's Acura TSX's, every bit of the HVAC controls were integrated inside the head unit - Metra offers a kit that's $200 or so where they offer an entire replacement panel with one of those controls and the HVAC display that it displaces.

Eventually I'm sure someone will come up with a box that replicates this - the odd bit is going to be it'll need a button to change those views, and someone will have to figure out where that needs to mount... they could offer a button to mount at your discretion, or perhaps like Metra they'll integrate it into a dash kit in a way that doesn't look tacked-on.
But that's "eventually".
 


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If it's that simple, that could be an easy DIY project if they can put up a schematic.

I was assuming there was a dedicated video processor inside the factory head unit, to manipulate the video signal into the three views... That wouldn't be something you could knock up quick, if so.
But generally, the aftermarket goes pretty amazingly far to solve OEM issues where they've embedded needed circuitry into factory head units...

Older GM cars used to have a loooong cable to relocate and retain factory head units to the trunk (via just the wires that were needed) before someone replicated the actual circuitry and offered a fancier harness that simply included a small box to bury inside the dash.

With the early 00's Acura TSX's, every bit of the HVAC controls were integrated inside the head unit - Metra offers a kit that's $200 or so where they offer an entire replacement panel with one of those controls and the HVAC display that it displaces.

Eventually I'm sure someone will come up with a box that replicates this - the odd bit is going to be it'll need a button to change those views, and someone will have to figure out where that needs to mount... they could offer a button to mount at your discretion, or perhaps like Metra they'll integrate it into a dash kit in a way that doesn't look tacked-on.
But that's "eventually".
Have fun:

Hey all, first time poster here. I haven't swapped out the stereo yet, but this thread will be very helpful when I do, so thank you.





I wanted to change views as well, so I did a little research. It turns out that the default camera state is the wide angle fisheye view. Those of you with a replacement head unit know this. In order to get the normal and top down views, you need to apply +8 V to CAMERA_BIT0 and CAMERA_BIT1 respectively. The easiest way to do that would be to have a resistor divider from the +12 V source for the backup camera and a single pole triple throw switch.

I haven't verified this yet, but it should only require two resistors, some shrink tubing (around the resistors and their leads), some wire, and a switch. I made the diagram below to help illustrate this plan. If any of you want to give it a shot (at your own risk), please report back!

Honda Reverse Camera View.png


Source:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/.../SC/SYS/C002991_enu/web/html/C002991_enu.html

Link to my diagram if it doesn't show up in the post:
http://i.imgur.com/UiG5rme.jpg

Good luck!

Edit: Cleaned up the link urls
:)
 

geolemon

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Thanks - a voltage divider really isn't complex to build - try making passive crossovers (and to be fair, even those aren't complex to build... it's the math that'll kill you lol)! :D
But to be fair my first major in college was electrical engineering, before moving on to info systems and an IT career in general... while holding a passion-driven side-career in mobile electronics for my younger years, into my 30's.

All you really need is a 1k resistor and a 2k resistor (if his math is right), and the tough part would probably be finding a triple-pole switch that didn't also have an annoying "off" position to contend with. It would literally be soldered together just like that diagram shows - you can't get resistors backwards. :cool:

Has anyone tried it to confirm all this? That would be great to know - a small hurdle regardless.
(and if anyone wants to try this - cut and add this into into your new HU harness adapter wiring -
Rule #1: NEVER cut your car's factory wiring, that's irreversible!
(and Rule #2: it's more fun to wire up your harness on the workbench, or in front of the TV, rather than upside-down inside the car, trying to wire it there!)
 

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don't run your sensitive low-level signal RCAs down the same side of the car as the power wires.
FYI this doesn't matter on sub amps. If there is any noise induced into the system, it would be filtered out by the amps crossovers. Plus RCAs aren't as dog shit as they used to be. It's actually fairly tough to get noise in them now.
 

geolemon

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To be fair - most everything is MORE dog shit than they used to be.
People aren't spending money on car audio these days... enthusiasts in general are waning - that's not just a mobile audio problem.

Long gone are the days of quality class A/B (much less class A) amps when $1/watt was a good value point...
Everything is made in China in the worst of manufacturing classes, and are prevalently class D architecturally... not just sub amps either.
People aren't buying "the good stuff" when it comes to cabling, either. Even when they do - you'll slap your forehead finding people using the center lead (intended to be grounded, to help reject noise, normalizing it to the chassis reference - at least at that point) for amp turn on lead... which isn't a high current / high RF affair, but certainly the opposite of a noise filter.

And at the same time, when huge wattage amps become cheap as it did with the class D revolution - they become attainable - and even 1/0 cable capacity becomes taxed (to say nothing of alternator headroom, which is frequently nonexistent). That DOES become a high-current RF nightmare, even with the use of a big cap at the amp end to help act as both a noise filter and electrical-transition shock absorber (car analogy... not literal shock). Sure, you can try to filter it out... but those are just crossovers, with slopes - not walls.

Mainly saying - best practices are still a good idea, even with the absolute most superior of cables - cables don't change, or even subvert (if barely mitigate) physics.

I'll always pick humble gear installed properly, over top-class gear installed in a rush with shortcuts. ;)
 
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Shinjari

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Thanks for all the tips guys/gals.

To repeat an earlier question. Where are people with hatchbacks putting their amps? Under the seat? In the spare tire area? My mono amp is tiny enough I was considering the glove box, thats where it was in my previous car. Only concern I had lingering in my head was in the event of a crash, it would probably turn into a projectile.... so maybe under the seat is best.
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