Getting new rotors and pads installed... by who?

[oliviaiiii]

My god (wo)man. That's some crazy numbers. I can send you a link to a cabin filter you can get on Amazon that works perfectly fine that's less than $10 and if there's no pictures on here, show you how to change it. The engine air filter takes marginally more effort, but can be changed with an auto parts store filter for probably $20. Those prices are highway robbery.

yes please

Sponsored

 

[oliviaiiii]

I've used this brand for years on my Odyssey and started buying them for the Civic (this generation's Civic is different size than the last model Civic which took the same ones as the Odyssey).

https://smile.amazon.com/EPAuto-CF1...695--1-1-5753--4&vehicleName=2018+Honda+Civic

$7.86.

When you've opened your glove compartment, you're almost 1/2 way to finishing changing the cabin filter. It's terribly easy.

I'd pick any decent engine air filter that's sold at an auto parts store.

Edit: Here's a DITY on the cabin filter. It will take you approximately 2 minutes of highly labor intensive work.

You truly are an awesome person! Can’t thank you enough! Think I can do this one

 

[charleswrivers]

If you want to crack your hood and save another ~$50... heres a link to the engine air filter. It's got the 1.5 and the 2.0 links in the description (I assume you have the 1.5). My Si took a screwdriver to open the airbox as I recall... but I guess the non-Sis don't. It really is quite simple. Once you change the cabin filter successfully... you've already exerted 1/2 the effort to do the engine air filter... you've just got to throw in opening and closing the hood.



If you don't want to get under the hood... other auto shops will change the engine air filter for far less than Honda. Check their websites for coupons for extra discounts too, as they have some specific to the engine air filter or general maintenance costs up to X-dollars. It won't be as cheap as doing it yourself, but will easily come in at around 1/2 what Honda charges you. If you want/need any more info... feel free to ask. Your car should be taken care of and be safe to operate... but not at the point of being raked over the coals. Those prices are beyond excessive.

 

[saiko21]

Wow thanks for breaking it down honestly I had no idea whether $695 is reasonable so I told him no brake service today. I keep jumping dealerships and this one has the highest review on google now I am afraid the price difference would be small among them.

lol $71 for airfilter and cabin air filter

I saw an old woman when she paid 140$ when I was getting my car tires replaced because of a recall. I was like damn the dealership is robbing them.

$71 for 2 min job. I wouldn't earn that much being an Engineer.

 

[BoxsterSteve]

same question here, I’m sitting at a dealership right now they told me rear brakes are below 20% and quote me $695.

And this is why I DIY...
on the street...
in front of my house...
like a boss.

 

[caspar21]

the mechanic that installed my cm clutch threw in new filters for free because i was ignoring them..

 

[civicls]

Wow thanks for breaking it down honestly I had no idea whether $695 is reasonable so I told him no brake service today. I keep jumping dealerships and this one has the highest review on google now I am afraid the price difference would be small among them.

Never trust dealer's Google's reviews. They're all .
Notice how they all have "1-review" accounts. I know this from experience.
But the real crime here is how much they charge for brake service. Like I said, its like selling gold for them.

 

[civicls]

Truth.

My mother-in-law just had both axles done and I think it was something like $500 or some other insanity for using their 'house' rotors and pads. I did the painted centric rotors and Akebonos all around on the Odyssey for... $200?

You'd come out ahead buying a quality jack and a set of Wally World Stanley tools along with a single large ratchet or breaker bar and a couple cans of brake cleaner. When you're done... you'd still have your tools for future fun.

Regardless, as said before... many shops will either 1) not accept customer supplied parts because it doesn't jive with their warranty they provide for work 2) charge a higher labor rate.

Whatever you pick... good luck! I'd look for an good, small-business independent mechanic over a chain for this kind of thing.

Curious, are you in the US?

 

[charleswrivers]

Curious, are you in the US?

Yes.

 

[oliviaiiii]

lol $71 for airfilter and cabin air filter

I saw an old woman when she paid 140$ when I was getting my car tires replaced because of a recall. I was like damn the dealership is robbing them.

$71 for 2 min job. I wouldn't earn that much being an Engineer.

Yea...thanks to @charleswrivers I ordered the filter he recommended and now I owe him$100. He’s wicked awesome(and for not judging me)
PS: I’m not old!

If you want to crack your hood and save another ~$50... heres a link to the engine air filter. It's got the 1.5 and the 2.0 links in the description (I assume you have the 1.5). My Si took a screwdriver to open the airbox as I recall... but I guess the non-Sis don't. It really is quite simple. Once you change the cabin filter successfully... you've already exerted 1/2 the effort to do the engine air filter... you've just got to throw in opening and closing the hood.



If you don't want to get under the hood... other auto shops will change the engine air filter for far less than Honda. Check their websites for coupons for extra discounts too, as they have some specific to the engine air filter or general maintenance costs up to X-dollars. It won't be as cheap as doing it yourself, but will easily come in at around 1/2 what Honda charges you. If you want/need any more info... feel free to ask. Your car should be taken care of and be safe to operate... but not at the point of being raked over the coals. Those prices are beyond excessive.

The checklist report stated “Brake Fluid NOT Filled— fluid level indicates pad wear” , I just checked it’s below min, and they didn’t refill it.

Now do I top it off? The manual only says see detailer immediately.

Thank you for your time!

Update: found out I was looking at the wrong reservoir, it appears the coolant is way below min. Dealer report didn’t check coolant level low and don’t know how long it’s been happening.

 

[Gruber]

same question here, I’m sitting at a dealership right now they told me rear brakes are below 20% and quote me $695.

Well, $695 is a nice round number that dealerships like to charge. It's just the amount a person who doesn't look too aggressive and looks like gainfully employed might agree to pay the shop for one go without calling a lawyer.

My daughter took her Camry to a local Toyota dealer ("customer states there is a clicking noise when braking at low speed...." and paid $695.98, taxes included.

But....it included an oil change priced at ~$50 after tax and it was an all around brake job (both axles) with brake fluid flush. All rotors refaced, not replaced. Genuine Toyota brake pads were priced at ~$65 per axle, which seems to be "only" about 60% over the actual part price. Total labor for brakes (after some discounts they applied) was $348 + tax. $36 worth of environmental compliance. Total brake parts: $206. Total about $645 after tax.

I believe this is what you would pay for this brake job at a dealer normally. It's a bit overpriced relative to the best price somewhere else, but I doubt any dealer would charge much less for both axles pads, re(sur)facing the rotors and fluid flush.

But $695 for one axle seems too much, even if they overcharge much for new rotors instead of resurfacing, which should subtract from the labor (OEM rotors are ~$80 each when bought from dealers on the internet, $117 list price).

 

[charleswrivers]

As @Mikey1 stated... your brake fluid shouldn't be below min. If that was also low and not just mistaken/miswritten as coolant, it can be topped off. It is important, however, that it not be filled much above the minimum line. This is because you know you already have pad wear. When you pads are eventually replaced here soon, to fit the calipers back over the then-new rotors, they'll have to compress the pistons which will push the fluid on the other side of the piston back into the lines and back into the fluid reservoir. Filling it to the high mark/top would result in your reservoir being WAAAY overfilled... and then you'll have to syringe it out.

As to coolant, any 'universal' 50/50 should be able to be topped off in the car. The manual will talk about using Honda coolant... or some, I think it's called 'low silicate' something or other fluid. Just don't use Dexcool (the GM-only stuff that amazingly turns to mud over time). The coolant reservoir is a sealed unit... it isn't one of those vented ones that a lot of other cars have. From memory... I think it is on the passenger side... sort of behind the engine. It shouldn't be opened hot... but you can look and see the level. There should be a cold and hot line... and the fluid should be at each line respectively... based on temperature.

...and you don't owe me a thing. If you were my neighbor, I'd go over to your house and give you a hand. It's the best I can do from behind a keyboard 1/2 way across the country.

And as a final suggestion, while there may be justification for low brake fluid with a lot of pad wear... though you'd figure the reservoir *should* have been sized to make the fluid be at the high line with brand new pads front and back and the low line with all pads at the minimum spec (I'm no car designer... but that's what *I* would have done) there's no good reason really for any missing coolant. Its a sealed system. I'd check for any leaked fluid in the engine bay or under the car. There have been a few threads on some coolant having leaked out of one spot or another. Any evidence of coolant leaking should be addressed under warranty by Honda. If you do a search some something along the lines of "coolant leak" you'll probably come up with a few examples. Some had pictures as well... and I think there was a leak point a few folks had. Good luck! Holler if you have any more questions.

 

[saiko21]

Yea...thanks to @charleswrivers I ordered the filter he recommended and now I owe him$100. He’s wicked awesome(and for not judging me)
PS: I’m not old!



The checklist report stated “Brake Fluid NOT Filled— fluid level indicates pad wear” , I just checked it’s below min, and they didn’t refill it.

Now do I top it off? The manual only says see detailer immediately.

Thank you for your time!

Update: found out I was looking at the wrong reservoir, it appears the coolant is way below min. Dealer report didn’t check coolant level low and don’t know how long it’s been happening.

The coolant shouldn't go below min line unless there is some kind of leak or the reservoir cap needs to be replaced. Please examine your cooling system or get it examined.

 

[oliviaiiii]

As @Mikey1 stated... your brake fluid shouldn't be below min. If that was also low and not just mistaken/miswritten as coolant, it can be topped off. It is important, however, that it not be filled much above the minimum line. This is because you know you already have pad wear. When you pads are eventually replaced here soon, to fit the calipers back over the then-new rotors, they'll have to compress the pistons which will push the fluid on the other side of the piston back into the lines and back into the fluid reservoir. Filling it to the high mark/top would result in your reservoir being WAAAY overfilled... and then you'll have to syringe it out.

As to coolant, any 'universal' 50/50 should be able to be topped off in the car. The manual will talk about using Honda coolant... or some, I think it's called 'low silicate' something or other fluid. Just don't use Dexcool (the GM-only stuff that amazingly turns to mud over time). The coolant reservoir is a sealed unit... it isn't one of those vented ones that a lot of other cars have. From memory... I think it is on the passenger side... sort of behind the engine. It shouldn't be opened hot... but you can look and see the level. There should be a cold and hot line... and the fluid should be at each line respectively... based on temperature.

...and you don't owe me a thing. If you were my neighbor, I'd go over to your house and give you a hand. It's the best I can do from behind a keyboard 1/2 way across the country.

And as a final suggestion, while there may be justification for low brake fluid with a lot of pad wear... though you'd figure the reservoir *should* have been sized to make the fluid be at the high line with brand new pads front and back and the low line with all pads at the minimum spec (I'm no car designer... but that's what *I* would have done) there's no good reason really for any missing coolant. Its a sealed system. I'd check for any leaked fluid in the engine bay or under the car. There have been a few threads on some coolant having leaked out of one spot or another. Any evidence of coolant leaking should be addressed under warranty by Honda. If you do a search some something along the lines of "coolant leak" you'll probably come up with a few examples. Some had pictures as well... and I think there was a leak point a few folks had. Good luck! Holler if you have any more questions.

My heart sinks.

I followed the lines looking for leak last night,
With flashlight it’s easier to see underneath the air filter box theres oil gunk and a black acorn thingy. I didn’t know what it was then I searched here and found out it is transmission fill plug. It was sitting right next to the fill hole.

The car won’t rev pass 2500 rpm since the day I went to the dealership last week. Jerking forward and backward, the rev needle would drop straight to 750 rpm whenever it hit 1250 rmp then bounce back to 1000 rmp. No power. It took 1 minute to accelerate 10mph (I was counting ). Lots noise. I didn’t mention it here as I thought the timing must be an coincidence (it probably is).

So I been driving with no ATF.

 

[charleswrivers]

My heart sinks.

I followed the lines looking for leak last night,
With flashlight it’s easier to see underneath the air filter box theres oil gunk and a black acorn thingy. I didn’t know what it was then I searched here and found out it is transmission fill plug. It was sitting right next to the fill hole.

The car won’t rev pass 2500 rpm since the day I went to the dealership last week. Jerking forward and backward, the rev needle would drop straight to 750 rpm whenever it hit 1250 rmp then bounce back to 1000 rmp. No power. It took 1 minute to accelerate 10mph (I was counting ). Lots noise. I didn’t mention it here as I thought the timing must be an coincidence (it probably is).

So I been driving with no ATF.

Wow! Did the dealer just do an ATF change recently?

Sponsored