full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers

Clydester88

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glad to be of help.

tip: the wiring kit you got, same as i did, does not have the right splices for the amp and internal sub enclosure wiring. just grab some of the blue parallel splices i've shown from lowes. for some reason, the wiring kit came with male spade plugs for t-splices but no splices to be had. just want to make sure you get the blue parallel splices before you start the project. everything else in the kit works perfectly, and make sure to run your 8 gauge power cable as straight and cleanly as possible. there's 17 ft of it and comes out to be just perfect how i routed my power cable from the battery.

tip: the stock sub grill mounted on the side panel has 2 pieces, front and back. depends on how loud and how much bass you play and on full/maximum extension, the sub's face may hit the back side of the grill causing rattle. remove the back side and keep the front side for a stock look. the back side is about 1/4" thick of plastic which is a lot of distance for the cone to have extra length to throw.

looking forward to you results!
So I ended up having everything installed by a shop as I wasn't too keen on doing it myself. They did a clean install and got rid of that back part of the grill as suggested. I still have some rattling from behind the subwoofer - not anything I can hear from the cabin, but I'd like to eliminate it. It's definitely not the grill and the installer even placed dynamat directly behind the subwoofer as well. I've played around with the panels and still can't locate the rattle.

Having said that, the overall audio balance and thump is so much improved from stock. I use Jet Audio Plus with the 20-band equalizer via Android Auto on a Pixel 2 and adjust levels by playing pink noise and using the Audio Tool app to monitor and adjust. Works like a charm.

Thanks again for the tips including those music selections. A few other good songs to test the sub are "Try" by Bugge Wesseltoft, Future Starts Slow by The Kills, and R U Mine by Arctic Monkeys.
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Preview - test fitted the JL C2-075ct tweeters. It’s a perfect fit using the surface mount adapter/cup that comes with the tweeters. No mods no cutting of stock housing or rings will he needed ;-) Will replace all tweeters, 6.5”, and do SoundSkins next few days for complete writeup along with some tips I have.

Conclusion - JL 0.75” tweeter models all fit perfectly since they all use same surface mount housing.

Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers B99F7DE7-D8C4-4C21-8931-08EDAF297D1B


Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers DFAEC700-EDE1-470D-A0A7-A441559836E3


Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers A207715A-0618-4344-8452-FE8F4E42CE14
 
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So I ended up having everything installed by a shop as I wasn't too keen on doing it myself. They did a clean install and got rid of that back part of the grill as suggested. I still have some rattling from behind the subwoofer - not anything I can hear from the cabin, but I'd like to eliminate it. It's definitely not the grill and the installer even placed dynamat directly behind the subwoofer as well. I've played around with the panels and still can't locate the rattle.

Having said that, the overall audio balance and thump is so much improved from stock. I use Jet Audio Plus with the 20-band equalizer via Android Auto on a Pixel 2 and adjust levels by playing pink noise and using the Audio Tool app to monitor and adjust. Works like a charm.

Thanks again for the tips including those music selections. A few other good songs to test the sub are "Try" by Bugge Wesseltoft, Future Starts Slow by The Kills, and R U Mine by Arctic Monkeys.
The rattle likely is coming from the taillight housing and specifically around the black mounting section. You see the black section with one screw when you open the hatch. Try tightening down that screw else will need a piece of deadening material under it. I had one rattle on left taillight and did just that, poof it’s gone.
 

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Looking great!

I've settled on my path forward. Stopped at my old place of employment, the only JL dealer in town, and they're working up a quote for me at close to my old pricing so it should be a no-brainer. Looking at a JL Audio VX600/6, it includes the FiX-86 inside it, they'll install and get the rough tuning done, and I can finish it with my phone. Will run the front components active by taking high level outs from amp in kick panel for FR Woofer, FR Tweeter, FL Woofer, FL Tweeter and mapping those individually in the amp which can do DSP correction, De-EQ, De-DSP and all that stuff on each channel and cross them over appropriately. Should sound pretty good. Will bridge the last two channels to the sub and contemplate a slightly better sub install over the winter.
 

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So I went through the CLEAN Setup for gain settings, but I think it's been way too long since I've actually fiddled with an amp.

My HU starts Input clipping at VOL 9, cleared at 11, and then finally Input clipped for good at 24, with Input & EQ set to minimums. Removed the remote gain controller, and moved the Input Level and the EQ until they showed blue Output clipping (1%). Hooked everything back up, and the HU still shows red on the remote gain controller sometimes (which I'm assuming is input clipping still). I feel like I'm missing something...

Also, crossover is set to 80Hz with Input Level High was set out of the box. I have a feeling it should be low, and set possibly closer to 120Hz?
 


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Looking great!

I've settled on my path forward. Stopped at my old place of employment, the only JL dealer in town, and they're working up a quote for me at close to my old pricing so it should be a no-brainer. Looking at a JL Audio VX600/6, it includes the FiX-86 inside it, they'll install and get the rough tuning done, and I can finish it with my phone. Will run the front components active by taking high level outs from amp in kick panel for FR Woofer, FR Tweeter, FL Woofer, FL Tweeter and mapping those individually in the amp which can do DSP correction, De-EQ, De-DSP and all that stuff on each channel and cross them over appropriately. Should sound pretty good. Will bridge the last two channels to the sub and contemplate a slightly better sub install over the winter.
LMAO I thought you said just a step up and don’t want to go full blown. Yet here you are hahaha, money pit!
 
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So I went through the CLEAN Setup for gain settings, but I think it's been way too long since I've actually fiddled with an amp.

My HU starts Input clipping at VOL 9, cleared at 11, and then finally Input clipped for good at 24, with Input & EQ set to minimums. Removed the remote gain controller, and moved the Input Level and the EQ until they showed blue Output clipping (1%). Hooked everything back up, and the HU still shows red on the remote gain controller sometimes (which I'm assuming is input clipping still). I feel like I'm missing something...

Also, crossover is set to 80Hz with Input Level High was set out of the box. I have a feeling it should be low, and set possibly closer to 120Hz?
Ok that is weird. Are all your wires secured and tight on the amp? Mine is similar for clip volume and all works great. My LP is set at 80 Hz which where I like it and EQ level about 10 o’clock.

In actual listening, it depends on song and volume. I use the remote knob on my dash as I drive. Blinking blue-red is normal. Steady read is no good.
 

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Ok that is weird. Are all your wires secured and tight on the amp? Mine is similar for clip volume and all works great. My LP is set at 80 Hz which where I like it and EQ level about 10 o’clock.

In actual listening, it depends on song and volume. I use the remote knob on my dash as I drive. Blinking blue-red is normal. Steady read is no good.
Cables are good from what I can tell, I'll re-check the crimps & the cables to the sub. Everything sounds great too. I'll set it back to low, and leave it at 80Hz and try it again. And I'm blinking blue to red and back through songs, and adjusting the remote knob will tune the sub how I like it, soooo...

All in all, I'm not getting any audible clipping, I think I'm just being more paranoid about doing damage.
 
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Cables are good from what I can tell, I'll re-check the crimps & the cables to the sub. Everything sounds great too. I'll set it back to low, and leave it at 80Hz and try it again. And I'm blinking blue to red and back through songs, and adjusting the remote knob will tune the sub how I like it, soooo...

All in all, I'm not getting any audible clipping, I think I'm just being more paranoid about doing damage.
Amp has built in protection. I’ve ran it at volume 40 for constant 15 mins and blinking blue-red no problem for testing.

Oh and amp does great job at cooling with built in fans.
 

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LMAO I thought you said just a step up and don’t want to go full blown. Yet here you are hahaha, money pit!
I do that a lot. Don't know why, but it is what it is.

That said, I learned a few things last night:
1.) the wiring is easily accessed in the passenger kick panel for the stock amp. I thought it was all behind the head unit
2.) The head unit uses one SPDIF connection to the amp, and the amp splits everything out internally as well as handles system sounds and GPS sounds. Since everything is split already, there's no other way for me to use passive crossovers like Focal intended. So in my mind, I'm at the mercy of the decision I made when I went with those speakers. True enough the tweeters may be crossed over in the factory amp or on the door somewhere, but my "audio nervosa" doesn't want to leave that to chance and potentially fry a tweeter.
3.) The sub and door speakers are capable of more than what i'm getting now. I've been around audio a long time and can tell when a system has more to give but just can't. That's what I'm hearing - quite a bit of potential being wasted at factory power levels.
4.) I like the idea of using something like a FiX to de-EQ and de-DSP. The fact it's now built into the amps is big because I want simple.
4.a) Once the idea came up that I could still leave out the passive crossovers and go active from a 5-channel amp AND get far more power to my sub, the decision was made. This will also simplify wiring AND give me a path to return to stock later on if I ever need to. I will be using all the stock wiring in the car, essentially breaking the connections to the door speakers and subwoofer and sending the output of the stock amp to the JL amp, then the output of the JL amp to the stock wiring. Since the JL does time alignment and all that jazz, I'm not concerned with any issues on that front due to all that extra cabling.

I actually did some research after my post and I can't use the 600/6, but the 700/5 is perfect. 100 x 4 and 300 x 1 into 2 ohms for my sub. And with the fronts being powered by 400W, I know I'll be getting the most of out of the Focals because like my Dyns in the basement, they have to have power to do what they are capable of.

So basically, I could have either left everything alone and ok with it, or I should have admitted to myself I needed a proper amp for the speakers I bought. Trying to find a happy medium was my mistake, and I admit that. And with the JL amp, I have some room to grow a little down the road if I want to (e.g. I could go back to passive crossovers for both front and rear doors and power everything with the 4 channels in the amp but that would be a large project). With the amp, installation parts, and labor to put it in, along with what I've put in so far, I'll also be at $1600 total or so which isn't all that bad. I'm not doing the rears at all, but maybe down the road. I'd be more inclined to figure out how to get a bigger/better sub in the factory location than I am worried about the rear speakers.
 
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Just found this thread.
A while ago, I replaced my center channel with the same JL C2 3.5” so worth it. I have been looking around for what to replace my doors with. My last car was fully JL Audio, sounded amazing. I don’t plan to have my car sound like that one, but the factory audio really NEEDS to be better on the CTR.
I was thinking alpine S or R components for the doors. The only thing about the JL woofers is how they require the external crossover, not that it’s a bad thing. I like how the alpines have the woofer’s crossover built on. Then again that c2 tweeter looks great in the factory housing.

I might have missed a post but have you messed with the rear pillar speakers?
 

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Just found this thread.
A while ago, I replaced my center channel with the same JL C2 3.5” so worth it. I have been looking around for what to replace my doors with. My last car was fully JL Audio, sounded amazing. I don’t plan to have my car sound like that one, but the factory audio really NEEDS to be better on the CTR.
I was thinking alpine S or R components for the doors. The only thing about the JL woofers is how they require the external crossover, not that it’s a bad thing. I like how the alpines have the woofer’s crossover built on. Then again that c2 tweeter looks great in the factory housing.

I might have missed a post but have you messed with the rear pillar speakers?
There is some info in here from @ctrmofo on the rear C-pillars. No aftermarket speaker will fit back there but I believe he is going to put a tweeter in there. Stock it's like a pancake 3" midrange or something.
 
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Just found this thread.
A while ago, I replaced my center channel with the same JL C2 3.5” so worth it. I have been looking around for what to replace my doors with. My last car was fully JL Audio, sounded amazing. I don’t plan to have my car sound like that one, but the factory audio really NEEDS to be better on the CTR.
I was thinking alpine S or R components for the doors. The only thing about the JL woofers is how they require the external crossover, not that it’s a bad thing. I like how the alpines have the woofer’s crossover built on. Then again that c2 tweeter looks great in the factory housing.

I might have missed a post but have you messed with the rear pillar speakers?
Glad you found it. Doing each pair at a time and documenting for review and writeup.

JL C2-650x mid woofers do not need external crossovers since they’re coax 2-way speakers and are drop in replacements. I’m doing that this weekend. Just did the JL C2-075ct tweeters in the front doors last night as a test, and they too do not need crossovers to work with the 650x since they’re independent.

Yes, I’ve documented the C-pillars earlier in this thread. I’m doing same 075ct tweeters in them by cutting a 1.5” hole in the C panel grills and surface mount the tweeters. Stock is 3.5” and pretty muted.

My goal has been to keep cost and complexity down while improving the sounds to where it needs to be. Therefore, I’m staying with stock HU’s processing of the signals and amp - except for the sub I did with Pioneer then Kicker which has its own external amp to maximize the power consumption and performance of bass frequencies.
 

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@ctrmofo yea I had the same idea in mind. Just swap to speakers that will work will with the existing HU and factory amp. I am however gonna leave the sub alone for awhile. The main goal is for my mids and highs to sound clean and vibrant. The lows are good enough for now.
My last car had C3 components in the front, C2s in the rear, 10w6, all running off a HD900.5 sounded amazing. I don’t wanna go that crazy with this car. I don’t feel like adding extra load on the battery or alternator.
I’ll report back when I try some Alpine components. While JL is my favorite brand, I think I can get the sound I want from the Alpines. Plus it would be cool to have “R” speakers in the R:D

**I didn’t think of using coax speakers for the doors, wonder if the factory amp filters out any highs on the door woofers. Doubt it though
 
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@ctrmofo yea I had the same idea in mind. Just swap to speakers that will work will with the existing HU and factory amp. I am however gonna leave the sub alone for awhile. The main goal is for my mids and highs to sound clean and vibrant. The lows are good enough for now.
My last car had C3 components in the front, C2s in the rear, 10w6, all running off a HD900.5 sounded amazing. I don’t wanna go that crazy with this car. I don’t feel like adding extra load on the battery or alternator.
I’ll report back when I try some Alpine components. While JL is my favorite brand, I think I can get the sound I want from the Alpines. Plus it would be cool to have “R” speakers in the R:D

**I didn’t think of using coax speakers for the doors, wonder if the factory amp filters out any highs on the door woofers. Doubt it though
i've been a fan of alpine since the 80's and used all alpine amps and subs with main speakers from boston acoustics for years. i to wish i could use alpine sub with the cool "R" ;-)

i'll find out soon enough when my jl c2-650x arrives monday for the doors. i don't believe they're filtered by the stock head unit but will confirm. reason i don't believe it is because of this: center channel swap. before the center swap to js c2-350x, there wasn't any highs at all because the stock center is a 1-way cone. once installed the imaging was immediate since the c2-350x was coaxial/2-way speaker used for the center channel...and what a difference it made.

finished the writeup for the front door tweeters (stand alone upgrade) and will post soon.
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