full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers

[Andjoo]

Do y’all use DTS neural surround?

I turned it off today, and my bass kicked up by like 50%

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[ctrmofo]

Do y’all use DTS neural surround?

I turned it off today, and my bass kicked up by like 50%

yes, i use it all the time. here's to note:

- during lc2i (or any processor) and amp tuning, dts must be turned off.

- dts does change or manipulate the bass signal based on the audio file being played.

- the bass increase you see is not from the sub but from the front door 6.5" speakers.

- dts does time delay the oem sub signal wire that previously we used as source signal for the sub.

- dts will not impact bass if using the new source signals coming from front door speakers for the sub.

 

[Andjoo]

yes, i use it all the time. here's to note:

- during lc2i (or any processor) and amp tuning, dts must be turned off.

- dts does change or manipulate the bass signal based on the audio file being played.

- the bass increase you see is not from the sub but from the front door 6.5" speakers.

- dts does time delay the oem sub signal wire that previously we used as source signal for the sub.

- dts will not impact bass if using the new source signals coming from front door speakers for the sub.

I have only changed out the center channel and replaced the factory sub. No additional amp or lc2i. Still won’t impact the sub output with it off?

 

[DuneShoot]

Would still like a schematic with LC2i and sub amp wiring

 

[ctrmofo]

I have only changed out the center channel and replaced the factory sub. No additional amp or lc2i. Still won’t impact the sub output with it off?

there's minimal impact with dts off. sub signal is still sending through, just sounds a little different since no time delay. use on or off and see what's best for you.

 

[ctrmofo]

Would still like a schematic with LC2i and sub amp wiring

in the queue after some important work and life stuff first ;-)

 

[phornea]

Would still like a schematic with LC2i and sub amp wiring

Here's a great diagram from a youtube video. He also does a great job of explaining it:

 

[ctrmofo]

Here's a great diagram from a youtube video. He also does a great job of explaining it:

that's one of the guys i helped. there's one error in his diagram and wiring.

on the speaker level input harness of the lc2i, it's incorrect and has only 1 pair of wires coming into the "left +/-". it must be 2 pairs of wires - the wires i've shown coming from the front left (+/-) and right (+/-) door speakers/channels.

reason being you must have 2 pairs of inputs to that input harness to the lc2i such that the lc2i itself will do the signal summing internally to the unit. therefore, the input must have 2 speaker wires: left + and -, right + and -.

all else seem correct.

 

[ctrmofo]

as i mentioned earlier, i blew up the jl w3v3 8" sub on purpose and waiting for a replacement warranty unit to come. they're on backorder from crutchfield, who instead sent me the same alpine type r swr-8d4 that i had used for testing before (and sold). they sent me one to see how long it takes to blow up to compare vs. what i did to the jl. i'll wire it up just like before as a parallel 4 ohms dual voice coil for net of 2 ohms load.

the jl xd600/1v2 amp i've been using since october 2018 is totally rock solid, and i've tuned to put out 600w into 2 ohms with a target sub output voltage peak of 34.6 volts (target voltage = sqrt of (target power x impedance ohms) at 75% of max head unit volume. this gives a 25% headroom for peak output still. these will be the specs i'll use to test how much and how long can the alpine type r take before it blows ;-)

the jl amp was tuned for a target sub output voltage peak of 40.0 volts which was 400w into 4 ohms load of the jl sub. those were the test parameters to blow the jl up.

which means:

1) jl sub was drawing 10 amps nominal and measured decibels at the front passenger footwell of 116.3 db, very good spl!
2) alpine sub was and will draw 17.3 amps nominal and measured decibels tbd.

note: for competition testing of decibels, the front passenger footwell is where the data is taken.

after the alpine amp blow up test, next test will be the hertz mille legend 2000.3 8" sub shown here: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301ML20003/Hertz-ML-2000-3.html. it's one of the kings of 8" subs that won many awards and will fit perfectly with the oem sub box per my design. rated for 700w rms and peak of 1400w and is up there in price at $800 list but is it worth it? we shall see ;-)

 

[phornea]

that's one of the guys i helped. there's one error in his diagram and wiring.

on the speaker level input harness of the lc2i, it's incorrect and has only 1 pair of wires coming into the "left +/-". it must be 2 pairs of wires - the wires i've shown coming from the front left (+/-) and right (+/-) door speakers/channels.

reason being you must have 2 pairs of inputs to that input harness to the lc2i such that the lc2i itself will do the signal summing internally to the unit. therefore, the input must have 2 speaker wires: left + and -, right + and -.

all else seem correct.

Yea, although I'm not sure you can really call it an error, since he's pulling the signal from the sub, as has almost everyone done so far. Hence the single pair of wires.

But yes, if you are going to do it properly with front speaker signal, it will be 2 pairs of wires, each going into their respective left and right channels.

Also, he does indicate to add a 1amp fuse to the poz LC2i wire, which I think is a great little tip/idea.

 

[ctrmofo]

Yea, although I'm not sure you can really call it an error, since he's pulling the signal from the sub, as has almost everyone done so far. Hence the single pair of wires.

But yes, if you are going to do it properly with front speaker signal, it will be 2 pairs of wires, each going into their respective left and right channels.

Also, he does indicate to add a 1amp fuse to the poz LC2i wire, which I think is a great little tip/idea.

ah ok...was looking at the diagram and wasn't sure if he made the change to the front signals yet.

correct, there needs to be a 1 amp fuse for the power in of the lc2i. it's required by audio control, and i've documented that also in the detailed installation process.

 

[J35W2]

Great thread, thanks to all who gave info. After lots of reading & shopping around, bought the following:
JL C2-350 for center channel
(4) JL C2-650x for all doors
XTC Baffle cones
10”x10” Dynamat Extreme to surround speaker holes
Enough Dynamat Superlite for all doors & hatch
Road Kill foam surrounds for speakers

A lot of this thread is over my head, so running all on stock HU & amp.

Will see how this sounds & then decide about door tweeters.

Again, appreciate the education!

 

[ctrmofo]

Great thread, thanks to all who gave info. After lots of reading & shopping around, bought the following:
JL C2-350 for center channel
(4) JL C2-650x for all doors
XTC Baffle cones
10”x10” Dynamat Extreme to surround speaker holes
Enough Dynamat Superlite for all doors & hatch
Road Kill foam surrounds for speakers

A lot of this thread is over my head, so running all on stock HU & amp.

Will see how this sounds & then decide about door tweeters.

Again, appreciate the education!

Great! You’ll find a big change in front stage imagining with the center speaker upgrade then big improvements in mid bass especially because you’re also doing sound deadening in the doors. That does wonders for broading yet focusing the mid bass. Yes, all works well with stock amp for plenty of sounds. Goes to show we don’t need complicated setups for very good improvements while saving the wallet.

Soon you’ll look into the sub and external amp upgrade once the bug bites! Enjoy!

 

[J35W2]

Great! You’ll find a big change in front stage imagining with the center speaker upgrade then big improvements in mid bass especially because you’re also doing sound deadening in the doors. That does wonders for broading yet focusing the mid bass. Yes, all works well with stock amp for plenty of sounds. Goes to show we don’t need complicated setups for very good improvements while saving the wallet.

Soon you’ll look into the sub and external amp upgrade once the bug bites! Enjoy!

Question: Does upgrading the subwoofer require upgrading the stock amp as well? I wouldn't mind upgrading the sub, but only if it is a direct swap. Don't want to mess with aftermarket amps or wiring. I don't know enough about car audio to go down that road (yet).

 

[J35W2]

Question: Does upgrading the subwoofer require upgrading the stock amp as well? I wouldn't mind upgrading the sub, but only if it is a direct swap. Don't want to mess with aftermarket amps or wiring. I don't know enough about car audio to go down that road (yet).

I see several subs on Crutchfield and the prices are good, just don't know how they would work with the JL speakers I will be installing on Friday. Don't need big power, just better bass & don't want to mess with the amp.

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