full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers

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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    fyi...went ahead and posted the instructions for how to remove the c-pillar speaker panels or in case you need to do other things.

     
  2. MonkeyConQueso

    MonkeyConQueso Senior Member

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    Thanks for all that info! And the C-pillar speaker mess is somewhat deflating, but I'm not too concerned with there being no easy swaps for it yet. As you said, it saves me money ;)

    I haven't yet started to peruse amps/subs since I don't want to entertain the thought of buying them until after the end of the month more for time reasons than money. Honestly though, I've always had a soft spot for Rockford Fosgate, but I need to poke around and see what's out there.
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    rf amps are solid. i'm not into their subs as they're known more for amps. choices i looked at for subs were pioneer, kicker, and rf. chose the pioneer with kicker as second choice since the pioneer specs showed more efficiency than the other two...plus head unit and stock amp are made by pioneer. not many 8" low profile subs to choose from really so take a look at the pioneer i've used else the kicker 43cwrt81 (dual 1 ohm voice coils, wire them in series for 2 ohm load). my pioneer is dual 2 ohm voice coils so wiring is parallel for 1 ohm load to maximize the 556w coming from the rf amp. can't go wrong with either one.
     
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  4. TEAMM_AP1

    TEAMM_AP1 Member

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    Awesome write up!

    I haven't been too impressed with the stock sound system. Might have to swap out the dash, front speakers and tweeters!

    Of course, I will wait for your write up. Thanks for your contribution!
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    So I’ve just sold my Pioneer sub installed 2 weeks ago for this writeup. All wired and ready to go for new owner at $75 same as what I paid.

    I received the Kicker 43CWRT82 (dual voice coils 2 ohm to be wired to 1 ohm) as another one to review and write up for folks to assess. Will update soon but is also easy drop in replacement low profile 8” sub.

    On way are SoundSkins deadening material from Australia. Will line entire trunk and all 4 doors (as I go through each door for associated speaker upgrades). It’s actually pretty light for how amazingly they dampen. At 6 lbs per roll of 11 sq ft, I’ll need 7 rolls (3 for trunk and 4 for 4 doors...total 77 sq ft with leftovers) so total weight is 42 lbs which is minimal. I’ve already lost 40 lbs in unsprung weight with NSX wheels (or 3x factor which is 120 lbs sprung weigh). Gaining back 42 lbs is nothing vs advantages of zero rattle from improved sub and eliminate lots of road noise from trunk area which has zero insulation stock.
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    yes, most effective improvements are the center/dash, front door tweeters and mid woofer, and sub-amp. rear doors and rear c-pillars have minimal impact to front soundstage. you can tell by putting all your audio settings to center (left-right, front-rear) to notice the sounds still are predominantly front focused with less volume coming from rear doors' and c-pillar speakers. my conclusion is rear doors' and c-pillar speakers are not necessary for much improved sounds unless you want everything to match the brand and speaker use use for the front ones. in fact i don't recommend even bothering with the c-pillar ones at all as shown above.
     
  7. visualabstrakt

    visualabstrakt Senior Member

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    Are you planning on running an amp for the fronts as well?
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    No, using stock amp rated 550W for all stock 11 channels. Only the sub is on its own separate amp which is the RF one I’ve installed. Stock amp is plenty for the 11 channels. This approach requires zero change in wiring whatsoever and only what I did for the sub and amp which was very minimal and only a tap to the stock sub wire already there.
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    Measurements if you plan to do sound deafening material like SounSkins, Second Skins, or Dynamat:

    - Front doors need 2 x 6 sq ft each door
    - Rear doors need 2 x 4 sq ft each door
    - Trunk needs 25-30 sq ft floor and all sides

    Total needed about 45-50 sq ft with some left over. I bought 55 sq ft total or 5 rolls of 11 sq ft SoundSkins.
     
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  10. Jessedrice

    Jessedrice Member

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    If I want to install the pioneer subwoofer without the amp, just swap them out what connector do I need to connect it to factory harness
     
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    06S2k07Si Senior Member

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  12. remc86007

    remc86007 Senior Member

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    Wow! At $55 I might try changing just the sub.
     
  13. chingonR

    chingonR Senior Member

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    Any way you can make the pics available for us non Facebook users? :bow:
     
  14. OP
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    Just changing sub is simple with couple gotchas if you use the Pioneer I used:

    Install:

    1. remove and disconnect the + and - wires from stock speaker

    2. cut the spade plugs off the stock wire ends inside the enclosure

    3. crimp a small length of speaker wire to extend it

    4. connect to new sub and install sub

    See pic.

    Gotchas:

    1. The Pioneer comes with dual voice coils each 2 ohm so needs to be wired parallel (1 ohm) or series (4 ohms).

    2. Stock amp drives only 2 ohm loads.

    3. If you wire the sub in 1 ohm, it works with stock amp to a limit. You’ll get about 20-25% improvement, but at high volume/current pull for say 10-15 mins, the HU will shut down due to too much current being pulled by a lower load of 1 ohm.

    4. If you wire the sub in 4 ohm, it works, BUT the stock amp now sees a higher load and will cut the sub volume by about half.

    Solution if you just want to change sub only and don’t install separate amp like I did:

    1. Get a different low profile (less than 3-5/8” top mount depth) sub with an net 2 ohm load.

    2. Use the Pioneer and install separate amp with high level input that is also the remote turn on signal for the amp. Therefore, the RF amp was why I chose for this functionality.

    407DA1E4-1222-4574-B12D-29C71022FD72.jpeg
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    Yes and no. See my reply above with gotchas. Sub only you need to find a different low profile sub either single or dual voice coil with net resistance of 2 ohm else you’ll have problems with stock amp.

    Weird how stock amp is rated 550W into 12 channels but drives 2 ohm sub only vs all other 11 channels being 4 ohm loads. No clue why that is.

    That’s a good price. Got mine for $75 on Amazon.
     
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