full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers

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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    Yep I checked a few pens I had and none would fit the RF thick 8 gauge wire jacket. I’m s a great trick!
     
  2. UFO CTR

    UFO CTR Senior Member

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    oh, my bad! I've use 10ga wire, so it when in pretty smoothly :D
    ok, Bic pen trick for those using 10ga wire or smaller...
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    other location to pull wire through the firewall is lower and behind the battery. i didn't want to mess with removing the battery plus the fender/hood latch cable is a better spot imho.
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    front center/dash speaker planning...will use jl c2-350x for virtually perfect fit.

     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    fyi...actual measurements of the rf amp i'm using.

    IMG_2237.JPG
     
  6. tdsounds

    tdsounds Member

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    I love this thread. One thing I definitely noticed that the sound system on this CTR is very subpar. Even my stock Honda pilot sounds better. You planning to replace all speakers?
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    #22 ctrmofo, Aug 15, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2018
    Yes, plan in process is:

    - Center dash with JL C2-350x
    - Doors with JL C2-650x for lower 6.5" speakers and C5-075ct tweeters
    - C-pillars (next to rear passenger ears) with JL C2-350x

    All will be powered by stock HU/amp which is good enough. These will add $800 including minor parts on top of the $500 already spent on the sub-amp install.

    Soundskins will also go on all doors (and trunk) at about $80 per 11 sq ft roll x 7 = $560 (4 rolls for 4 doors and 3 rolls for trunk).

    Total audio improvement project about $2,000 total.
     
  8. TypeRLEDs

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    Amazing write up @ctrmofo. Love the photos!
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    center dash speaker replaced with jl c2-350x, wow! simply amazing sound imaging...

     
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  10. MonkeyConQueso

    MonkeyConQueso Senior Member

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    Well, damn you for writing that up and getting me to spend money! The center speaker and the sub have been my major points of contention with sound quality, soooo... I just bought all the parts for the center speaker to start with, and will buy sub/amp parts likely soon. I hemmed and hawed at which center speaker I would choose, and I just decided to defer to your choice since it was in stock. Hah!

    Thanks for this, it gets me committed to actually having some focus and doing the work to fix the sound in my R. :thumbsup:
     
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  11. sysjl

    sysjl Senior Member

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    Great write up! I'll probably do the center speaker upgrade since I've already done the sub. I ended up doing the Rockford Fosgate PBR 300x1 amp. Ended up having to do an RMA on it after 6 months. That thing gets super hot and the 110 degree weather here in Texas along with the enclosed space ended up killing it. Please let us know how your amp holds up in a few months.
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    LOL...yes it’s a huge difference and blends the front speakers well. I have to turn treble down a few notches and currently using +2 bass, 0 mid, +2 treble, +2 sub, and DSP “on”.

    Make sure to not tighten the 2 Phillips screws too tight else will “straighten out” the center grill. The grill needs to be a bit bent in order to sit flush all around when reinstalling it in the dash.

    Which sub and amp are you going with?
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    #28 ctrmofo, Aug 20, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2018
    Rear C-pillar removal and recommendation - don’t bother swapping it out, unless you want to do heavy modifications to the side panels. Not enough clearance for just about every new 3.5” speakers I could find. Here’s my write up and conclusion.

    @MonkeyConQueso - saving you some $ on this one ;-) No need to replace them...

    If anyone really wants to replace the C-pillar speakers or want to know how to remove the C-pillar panels, I have the draft write up for the process which I did not post.

     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    #29 ctrmofo, Aug 20, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2018
    Thanks! Interesting with the heat. I’ve not had any issues whatsoever with heat here and am in Columbus, OH. It’s been 90’s and 80’s but no issues. I do think about the heat though but haven’t had the setup long enough to notice any problems. I am thinking about making some slight modification to the foam tray for ventilation.

    My RF 500x1 amp (like yours) has built in fans on each side and pushes air to cool down the long sides. What I’m planning to do is shown in the pic below: Cut a section of say 6” long by 1”-2” high on the back edge of the foam tray. That would give an opening yet remain stealth for the air to circulate. Since the back side of the trunk is pretty much open and the back interior garnish has all those vents, the air should flow back and up that garnish.

    Also, there’s room on the side sunken section of the foam tray for a couple quite DC computer fans I could install to suck air out and down or blow air in. See pic...I’ll update once I’ve done at least one of these two ideas.

    Here’s RF video showing direction of heat exhaust and cooling:

    C1DCDE29-DEE0-44F4-A32D-2AFB57D0E350.jpeg

    55C89174-C982-4D10-A48A-C696B4890888.jpeg
     
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    ctrmofo

    ctrmofo Senior Member

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    @MonkeyConQueso , I’m ordering JL C2-650x mid-woofers and JL C2-075ct tweeters for the 4 doors next. Will also take the opportunity when doing the 4 doors (8 speakers) to also replace the stock plastic liners behind the door panels with SoundSkins dampening material. Just have to wait for the SoundSkins to arrive.

    The JL mid-woofers and tweeters should match very well with the JL C2-350x center channel I’ve just installed. In total 10 of 12 channels (except the 2 C-pillar speakers) will be upgraded when done.

    B6859158-6BC8-4E63-890D-B6AA80233D15.jpeg

    A3FA4221-F713-4F3D-B745-50D1B2E5A31E.jpeg
     
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