full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers

[HRace]

How’s the alternator / battery handle this small amp set up. Hoping you guys aren’t getting headlight dimming when the small sub hits. I’m talking about the 8” replacement subs. Guessing it’s not so bad since the stock headunit was already set up to power a sub and you’re only adding a small amount of extra power draw.

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[HRace]

about less than 10 left of 50...interesting response!

Put me on the list please. Hope I snuck in before the first 50 were gone!

 

[ctrmofo]

Put me on the list please. Hope I snuck in before the first 50 were gone!

Sorry just saw this. Yes you’re #43.

 

[ctrmofo]

Put me on the list please. Hope I snuck in before the first 50 were gone!

How’s the alternator / battery handle this small amp set up. Hoping you guys aren’t getting headlight dimming when the small sub hits. I’m talking about the 8” replacement subs. Guessing it’s not so bad since the stock headunit was already set up to power a sub and you’re only adding a small amount of extra power draw.

With Rockford amp pumping 969W RMS into 2 ohms, zero dimming or any issues here whatsoever. I don’t know at what level the stock alternator won’t handle it, but so far it’s way more than my ears can handle.

 

[ctrmofo]

Here’s the first of several production unit ready to ship out next week. It’s all hand made and more of a labor of love so there’s a solid solution for deeper 8” subs. All comes with required sealant tape and mounting screws for the spacer and grill itself.

 

[Muggsy]

That custom grill looks awesome. I am very happy with the RF amp/Pioneer sub setup, plenty of power and bass for me. I have noticed the stock system seems noticeably louder with the RF sub amp. Unless I have the windows open, it takes serious volume (louder than I can comfortably handle) to drive the amp to clipping, even if I dime the punch control, though I usually keep it around the 10 o'clock position. At this point I have upgraded the sub, center dash speaker and front tweeters. I plan to do the front door speakers and maybe the rear tweeters, then call it a day.

 

[HRace]

I plan to do the front door speakers and maybe the rear tweeters, then call it a day.

Thanks for the mini review. Please post back on the difference adding the front door speakers make! Since you will have some time to get used to the current set up before adding the fronts, I’m curious to hear your take on the value of that next step. I was debating on stopping exactly where you’re at vs doing the front door speakers. Thanks!

 

[ctrmofo]

You’ll definitely hear a huge improvement with the front door tweeters and 6.5” speakers upgrade beyond the center and sub alone. Reason being stock 6.5” are terrible basic paper cones and are 1-way mid bass only. Once you get coaxial 6.5” in the front door, then smooth blending from high to mid to mid bass and bass just comes together.

Don’t skimp out on the door speakers if you do it since they will be very impactful. The rear doors definitely are debatable and not as much impact really so can stop and not do rear doors.

 

[HRace]

Here’s the first of several production unit ready to ship out next week. It’s all hand made ...

That looks really good. I don’t know what kind of fixture you made to bend the grilles but it looks great. Anxious to hear your JL sub impressions too.

 

[ctrmofo]

That looks really good. I don’t know what kind of fixture you made to bend the grilles but it looks great. Anxious to hear your JL sub impressions too.

I had to build my own mold and press then hand finish to make it perfect to my standards.

Yes soon once I get back to that...LoL so much going on.

 

[HRace]

Yes!!! Back in business in a big way.

Testing showed it works with LC2i solution. Tidy things back and will test out Alpine Type R and JL Audi W3V3 deep mount subs later this week and new solution previewed above.

Is the LC2i power and ground just a jumper wire from the amp power and ground? LC2i does not have it’s own separate run of power from the battery nor it’s own dedicated ground straight to the chassis from what I can see in the pic. Thanks.

 

[ctrmofo]

Is the LC2i power and ground just a jumper wire from the amp power and ground? LC2i does not have it’s own separate run of power from the battery nor it’s own dedicated ground straight to the chassis from what I can see in the pic. Thanks.

Correct. It’s very low draw.

 

[zsak]

Well just received my Jl 8w3 and didn’t realize how big that magnet looks. Man I am curious how this will fit in the oem box without it rattling too much. I can’t wait to hear this set up for sure.

 

[ctrmofo]

Well just received my Jl 8w3 and didn’t realize how big that magnet looks. Man I am curious how this will fit in the oem box without it rattling too much. I can’t wait to hear this set up for sure.

It will NOT fit. Max mounting depth available for the stock box is 3-5/8”. The JL W3V3 8” requires 4-9/16” mounting depth (or 1” more) not yet accounting for the cone exercusion length. Not only that, the cone wi butt up against the back of the stock plastic grill and won’t allow the cone to move.

This is why I designed the Deeper Sub Grill Kit which is required to allow larger magnet subs like JL to work properly. Read up on the thread above for all the documentation and research done.

 

[ctrmofo]

Is the LC2i power and ground just a jumper wire from the amp power and ground? LC2i does not have it’s own separate run of power from the battery nor it’s own dedicated ground straight to the chassis from what I can see in the pic. Thanks.

PS - Make sure you use an inline fuse for the LC2i power cable. I think it’s a 1A else max 3A fuse. Check the doc that comes with the LC2i. Not home so can’t check for you.

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