For those driving competitively--Toe question

[bgood]

All,
I purchased my CTR with the full intention of retiring my S2000 and do autocross and track days in the CTR. Anyone here have settings for aligning the toe for optimal performance? This was a lot easier for me to figure out on a rear wheel drive, but with FWD, I am not sure if the best setting is to toe in or out, and by how much.
To conform with classing rules, I am running the Motegi 19x8.5 and starting with stock tire height. (255/35R19). No allowed changes to modify alignment outside of factory min/max. I am still running stock sway bars front and rear.
Thanks in advance.

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[Slalom]

First Autox run was Sunday so the set-up notes are a little thin. We ran front toe-out at 3/32". Checked rear toe but left it alone with a slight toe-in. The car maybe seemed a bit quick to turn in but I plan to leave it alone for a few more runs till I get used to the car (coming from a DS-Mini). Test-n-Tune is end of May for us so we may change things around then.

Same wheels as you but with 265 RE71's all around. Also, removed pins to max out front camber. Stock sway bars.

 

[RacingManiac]

We got a thread going at the track/autoX forum: https://www.civicx.com/threads/d-street-type-r-autox-info-sharing.23556/

I haven't got around to alignment yet aside from just pulling the strut pins and maxed out the front camber. With the car "stock"(haven't checked the alignment after 15k miles neither, so if they shifted I would not have known), running on my current staggered RE71R setup(275/245) with stock rear bar the car already seem pretty neutral on cold asphalt and concrete(being in MI it'll be a while before I'll know anything about warmer weather behavior). I do plan eventually going to square tires(these are just whatever I can find on CL). From my previous FWD car in Street class(GS GTI), I slapped on the fattest rear bar I can and took rear toe to 0 and the car seems to be good with that. With how free this car is currently I am not sure I want to do that, even though I already have Karcepts bar on standby.

 

[bgood]

We got a thread going at the track/autoX forum: https://www.civicx.com/threads/d-street-type-r-autox-info-sharing.23556/

I haven't got around to alignment yet aside from just pulling the strut pins and maxed out the front camber. With the car "stock"(haven't checked the alignment after 15k miles neither, so if they shifted I would not have known), running on my current staggered RE71R setup(275/245) with stock rear bar the car already seem pretty neutral on cold asphalt and concrete(being in MI it'll be a while before I'll know anything about warmer weather behavior). I do plan eventually going to square tires(these are just whatever I can find on CL). From my previous FWD car in Street class(GS GTI), I slapped on the fattest rear bar I can and took rear toe to 0 and the car seems to be good with that. With how free this car is currently I am not sure I want to do that, even though I already have Karcepts bar on standby.

This setup is what I was thinking-- 0 toe in the rear, and have the Karcepts for adjustability. In +R mode, the turn in seems pretty fast, although I will know better after a few runs. My concern is that I would need some front toe-in to reduce impact of tire spin on hard acceleration.
I didn't notice that we have a thread going for this--I will check that out.

 

[Slalom]

Mr. J. Burns mentioned that FWD cars tend to toe-in on acceleration. Is that not the case with the Type R front suspension design? That answer could change my approach to front toe.

 

[d15b7]

hi there. this is not CTR specific (I haven't touched the alignment on my CTR (yet) as it's just my daily driver; but I have a EG hatch with a K24 BW EFR7163 racecar that I have owned and raced since 1997 (Honda Challenge H1 initially (B series then K series)) and now it's a time attack car with the turbo setup. on most tracks I run about 1/16" toe out up front with 3.5 deg neg camber up front. rear is zero toe and 1.5 deg neg camber. of course that's with no front sway bar and a big SSR rear bar set on full stiff with 800 lbs front springs and 1200 lbs rear springs so it's not anything like the CTR's stock springs.

i'll also add that if you have pulled the pins out for max camber on the CTR, you should definitely recheck your alignment for any changes in toe up front. I plan on pulling my pins this spring/summer on the CTR and setting it around the max camber it will take (i've heard around 2 deg neg roughly) and then realign it (i do my own alignments) to zero toe up front and see how it responds to that for daily driving.

 

[Arcam]

May I ask what these pins are that you pull out? I agree any change to camber will also change toe setting.

 

[RacingManiac]

We threw some toe-plates on when we first pulled the front pin it and it seems to be about 0 toe(no idea where it was prior).

 

[toddrhodes]

May I ask what these pins are that you pull out? I agree any change to camber will also change toe setting.

 

[bgood]

Is there a TSB on pulling that pin? It looks like there is quite an advantage for negative camber with that removed. I couldn't find in the Street Class rules where that is allowed, so without a TSB, I can't do that simple mod. If anyone is aware where I can find that find that allowance, please point me to the rule.

 

[RacingManiac]

https://www.civicx.com/threads/factory-alignment-procedures-and-specifications.15163/
Page 4

 

[bgood]

https://www.civicx.com/threads/factory-alignment-procedures-and-specifications.15163/
Page 4

Perfect!

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