FlashPro for CTR tuning results

AdamD19DFK8

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What do you mean by an indepth guide? The bosch ECU is so easy to adjust parameters that it doesn't really require a big guide.
Make a change, do a 3rd gear 2000-7000 pull and keep repeating it for every revision on the same road so you can map it out on virtual dyno and the XY graph on flashpro manager and you can see how much of an effect the changes you made did.

i have a stock nismo 370z as my other toy car lol. A tuned CTR will outrun that thing like it's not moving both on the straightaway and on the turns.

A tuned FBO on E85 might keep up with you but a stock one on pump? no way lol. It's a boat.
It's easy to change yes, but a guide on how to go about/suggested adjustments to things like vtc cam angles, fueling and lambda, which direction to go and what exactly would change. It's annoying taking 6 minutes to flash then drive around until lambda calibrates then test. I know there's live tuning but you still need to flash then after you make you adjustments im pretty sure you have to flash again.

I've never driven or been in a 370 but in Forza 7 it's so incredibly oversteer happy. Braking, accelerating, or just turning in general it just wants to spin, you gotta adjust the rear suspension as light as possible to get it to behave. I don't know if this guy is trolling or serious. He's afraid to race his brothers Ford explorer and thinks he has a chance against a lighter, more powerful torque machine
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jasonjm

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The nismo is like 300 lbs heavier than the CTR. 3100 ish vs 3400 ish. The base is slightly lighter than the nismo but it's still heavy. The older ones are also slightly lighter probably due to the lack of sound deadening and all that stuff that the newer model has. It also holds like 19 gallons of fuel compared to 12 ish on the CTR lol. That alone is like 50 lbs if both are at full tank.

The problem is, it FEELS a lot more heavier than just 300 lbs. 300 more lb in a smaller car coupled with the ridiculous lame and annoying stock flywheel makes the car FEEL alot heavier than just 300 lbs. It definitely does not hide its weight.

I've never ran them against each other but been WOT on both of them enough that there's no way that a tuned CTR would lose.
Think about selling it? Pimp out a nice daily.
I had a Track Z when they came out. It was heavy but always just missing some oomph up top. I recently drive an older Nismo and it didn’t feel any faster than the Track I had even though it was supposed to have so much more HP. I’m not kidding, I couldn’t tell. I did like the the mid turn balance though, my car would be lil weird. Glad I got rid of mine for an S2K.
 

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Think about selling it? Pimp out a nice daily.
I had a Track Z when they came out. It was heavy but always just missing some oomph up top. I recently drive an older Nismo and it didn’t feel any faster than the Track I had even though it was supposed to have so much more HP. I’m not kidding, I couldn’t tell. I did like the the mid turn balance though, my car would be lil weird. Glad I got rid of mine for an S2K.
maybe get rid of the ILX that i use as a daily and the Z and get a supra maybe.
It's easy to change yes, but a guide on how to go about/suggested adjustments to things like vtc cam angles, fueling and lambda, which direction to go and what exactly would change. It's annoying taking 6 minutes to flash then drive around until lambda calibrates then test. I know there's live tuning but you still need to flash then after you make you adjustments im pretty sure you have to flash again.
fueling is pretty straight forward. VTC cam angles on the other hand can get pretty confusing. I'm not 100% sure on the best way to tune out vtc on this car is also.
As for live tuning, you basically reflash the car with live tuning enabled and make changes as you are doing your run. When your happy with the adjustments, you save the adjustments with live tuning turned off and reflash the car. At least that how it worked before. Unfortunately fueling cannot be live tuned but the majority of the adjustments you want to make is available (boost and ign mainly)
 

AdamD19DFK8

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Yeah I'd figure I'd just leave cam/vtc alone since I don't know what I'm doing with that.

Went out last night for a drive. I dialed ignition advance back to +2.25 but data log is still showing 2-4 (and occasionally 8) degrees of retard in individual cylinders, not overall. Knock control is all over the place, though I recall the guy from hondata saying that value has little use in tuning, but it shoots up over 200% every pull. Still no actual knock. Doesn't the knock sensor go by engine noise or something. My exhaust isn't super loud it just has a ton of low end bass to it. Plus that noise is from the very back of the car not the engine compartment.
Longitude g’s hit over .65 near the top of second gear, so I've got that going for me haha
 
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Yeah I'd figure I'd just leave cam/vtc alone since I don't know what I'm doing with that.

Went out last night for a drive. I dialed ignition advance back to +2.25 but data log is still showing 2-4 (and occasionally 8) degrees of retard in individual cylinders, not overall. Knock control is all over the place, though I recall the guy from hondata saying that value has little use in tuning, but it shoots up over 200% every pull. Still no actual knock. Doesn't the knock sensor go by engine noise or something. My exhaust isn't super loud it just has a ton of low end bass to it. Plus that noise is from the very back of the car not the engine compartment.
Longitude g’s hit over .65 near the top of second gear, so I've got that going for me haha
The only value you should pay attention to is the knock retard 1-4. The other values like knock control isn't really important.

how hot was the ambient temps and your IAT during those pulls? It's also important to note when those knock retards happen and if it's repetitive in the same area of the map.
 


AdamD19DFK8

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The only value you should pay attention to is the knock retard 1-4. The other values like knock control isn't really important.

how hot was the ambient temps and your IAT during those pulls? It's also important to note when those knock retards happen and if it's repetitive in the same area of the map.
It was only 70-75 out last night. IATs were in the mid/low 80s sometimes low 90s. The 2-4 degrees of retard would occur within the same rpm range. It never occurred in 2nd gear (I'm using full power I just don't give it full throttle) but high up in 3rd and especially 4th it would show some then remain for 5 seconds or so as I coasted down to get below 100mph. 2-4 isn't too bad though I'd like to be as close to 0 as possible. Might have to take it back another .75 degrees in the top end but that would only put me at 1.5 degrees of advance.

I'm always worried that when I fill up with 93 it won't actually be 93. I usually go to Sunoco and I'd imagine they're good about it.
 
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you can try lowering the ign in that range and re test to see if it goes away.

at those temps, i don't think you should be really be having any knock retard.
 

AdamD19DFK8

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you can try lowering the ign in that range and re test to see if it goes away.

at those temps, i don't think you should be really be having any knock retard.
I have to give my tables another look, I don't remember if I left the low end of the rpm range alone, lowered it, or just increased the whole table. I think I increased it low slightly, then added a little more up top. Would varying levels throughout the Rev range possibly contribute to that? If I recall hondata suggests changing everything by the same absolute value. I'll have to set the tables back to base, which I've been wondering, is there an option to return values to base numbers without having to make a whole new calibration? Get them back to base then just try increasing all the tables by 3 degrees again then work back from there.
 

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I have to give my tables another look, I don't remember if I left the low end of the rpm range alone, lowered it, or just increased the whole table. I think I increased it low slightly, then added a little more up top. Would varying levels throughout the Rev range possibly contribute to that? If I recall hondata suggests changing everything by the same absolute value. I'll have to set the tables back to base, which I've been wondering, is there an option to return values to base numbers without having to make a whole new calibration? Get them back to base then just try increasing all the tables by 3 degrees again then work back from there.
yeah you can adjust certain areas instead of changing it throughout the whole rpm. I would change it the same amount for all of the tables in the same range though.

you can save like a base 93 octane map and then open up your current calibration, go to the ign tables and right click. There should be an option you can choose that says like "import from calibration" or something. You can then import it from the 93 base map.

What i usually do is open 2 instances of flash pro manager. One with your current cal, and one with the base map and then just copy and paste it over.
 

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yeah you can adjust certain areas instead of changing it throughout the whole rpm. I would change it the same amount for all of the tables in the same range though.

you can save like a base 93 octane map and then open up your current calibration, go to the ign tables and right click. There should be an option you can choose that says like "import from calibration" or something. You can then import it from the 93 base map.

What i usually do is open 2 instances of flash pro manager. One with your current cal, and one with the base map and then just copy and paste it over.
Oh that's a good idea, thanks. I need to move somewhere where traffic isn't horrendous. Sucks having to wait until night time to drive like a maniac and test things. Maryland sucks, both with traffic and as a state as a whole.

Last night I was getting .68 gs off acceleration at the top of second, that's a good bit better than the stock value of around .51
 
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It was only 70-75 out last night. IATs were in the mid/low 80s sometimes low 90s. The 2-4 degrees of retard would occur within the same rpm range. It never occurred in 2nd gear (I'm using full power I just don't give it full throttle) but high up in 3rd and especially 4th it would show some then remain for 5 seconds or so as I coasted down to get below 100mph. 2-4 isn't too bad though I'd like to be as close to 0 as possible. Might have to take it back another .75 degrees in the top end but that would only put me at 1.5 degrees of advance.

I'm always worried that when I fill up with 93 it won't actually be 93. I usually go to Sunoco and I'd imagine they're good about it.
How much boost are you hitting, did you disable the egt to run more boost because on 93 it won't do much because the stock turbo is all ready out of its efficiency zone ie blowing hot air. You can't run a lot of timing and boost the on ctr without good octane.
 

AdamD19DFK8

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How much boost are you hitting, did you disable the egt to run more boost because on 93 it won't do much because the stock turbo is all ready out of its efficiency zone ie blowing hot air. You can't run a lot of timing and boost the on ctr without good octane.
No I didn't disable the egt. Peak BP at 5150rpm at 26.5psi then it drops right to 24.5 throughout the power band and drops to 23.5 at the top end. I just compared the datalog to one of the ones I have from the base map and BP is actually lower with this one. It was cooler out last night than when I logged the base map.

I'll just copy all the ignition values from the base map and try it again.

Update:
Went out for a ride around the block with several pulls. The only time it showed up was once when I floored it then let off real quick, and for less than a second another time. Heres the log

 
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AdamD19DFK8

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less boost and higher ign timing is usually better uptop
Would it be effective to lower the boost from the base values (245% peak down low with 205% at the top of the rev range) to something less then increase the ignition timing. I still can't go over +1.50 degrees without getting some retard.

Another question, under closed loop the catalyst protection temperature on the stock equivalent map is around 1850F which is about how hot it actually gets, with hondatas maps the value is 391F which doesn't make sense since the downpipe gets much much hotter than that.
 
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Another question, under closed loop the catalyst protection temperature on the stock equivalent map is around 1850F which is about how hot it actually gets, with hondatas maps the value is 391F which doesn't make sense since the downpipe gets much much hotter than that.
There are two cat temperatures. The temperature where fuel is added to keep the EGT down, and then the maximum temperature. We reduce the lower temperature so that ECU does not run stoichiometric too far into boost, but that is a balancing act since it is around peak torque and it is easy to run out of fuel pump. Anyhow, that's why you see a temperature which is lower than the EGT temperature.
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