FlashPro for CTR tuning results

[redline]

I can't seem to find the answer if a catted prl downpipe will work with the prl downpipe, prl intercooler calibration.

Just pick one, I did a compare of the two and there both very similar with slight changes to turbo max settings. I would just do the prl/prl one and tweak it as you see fit.

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[02SilverSiHB]

dumb question and I think I know the answer...but the ECU has nothing to do with the error light one might received when installing coilovers without an error cancellation kit right? Mean, my hopes of getting rid of that error through flashpro isn't going to happen most likely?

 

[ostudent]

I can't seem to find the answer if a catted prl downpipe will work with the prl downpipe, prl intercooler calibration.

No it won't, use the HFC tune

 

[AdamD19DFK8]

No it won't, use the HFC tune

I've been running the PRL 93 tune most of this week and it has been working fine. Not sure if it's any better than the regular dp/ic one, but it's not worse psi peaks at 27psi compared to 26 with the other. I tried my hand at adjusting the throttle tables and the air charge. The car was making 29psi but felt noticeably slower. The fuel pump didn't go over 90%

I'm looking at getting over 400lbs torque. I set 100% throttle to 520nm to start, increased the air charge slightly. What other parameters should I look into, I'll post the log when I get home. The hondata tuning guide isn't very in depth, just gives a basic explanation.


With the prl tune it takes around 6 seconds to go from 80mph-130mph. That's pretty damn good

 

[boosted180sx]

There are a lot of parameters that you can fine tune if you want to. Just have to analyze your datalog, change, and repeat.
You can Increase torque tables, increase aircharge, increase the turbo max ratio, increase ignition timing, etc.

the main parameters that i look at on datalogs when i'm fine tuning is DIFP, DIFPCMD, fuelP, BP, BPCMD, WG, WGCMD, IAT, , AIRC, IGN, AF, AFCMD, and more importantly Knock Retard1-4.

 

[davemarco]

Has anyone had a custom tune done with the new high rev EGT disable? If so, I'm curious how much power you saw.

 

[ostudent]

I've been running the PRL 93 tune most of this week and it has been working fine. Not sure if it's any better than the regular dp/ic one, but it's not worse psi peaks at 27psi compared to 26 with the other. I tried my hand at adjusting the throttle tables and the air charge. The car was making 29psi but felt noticeably slower. The fuel pump didn't go over 90%

I'm looking at getting over 400lbs torque. I set 100% throttle to 520nm to start, increased the air charge slightly. What other parameters should I look into, I'll post the log when I get home. The hondata tuning guide isn't very in depth, just gives a basic explanation.


With the prl tune it takes around 6 seconds to go from 80mph-130mph. That's pretty damn good

I ask hondata thur pm and have my mod list they still tell me do the HFC tune. I will just follow what they say. but u have ur choice.

 

[ostudent]

@Hondata Is there a possible option to start the car in comfort mode? I know u guys already have one to start in +R mode.

 

[AdamD19DFK8]

I ask hondata thur pm and have my mod list they still tell me do the HFC tune. I will just follow what they say. but u have ur choice.

Totally. I was trying it out. Now only if I could get powwwa

 

[AdamD19DFK8]

Noob question, how do you upload datalogs to this site? I tried and it said the file is too big even though it's only 11mb. Do I have to upload it somewhere else and embed the link?

I went and changed my torque tables to this

I didn't really change much else, air charge should be good. Lambda is supposed to be adjusted automatically with a max of 14 (which is default)

I went for a drive and it felt at least as good as the 93 base map I was using, not sure if there was any improvement. I might need to look into changing the ignition timing. Watching one of hondatas videos the guy explains with timing you should only increase the negative values, as the positive ones won't do anything.

I have a log for my run I just need to figure out how to upload it here.

I have a log going pretty much the same roads with just the 93 base tune to compare.

 

[boosted180sx]

you can use like google drive or maybe zip it

 

[AdamD19DFK8]

Ah, easy enough.

Log with my adjustments


Calibration if that helps


Regular basemap log


Looking at the logs I had a couple pulls over 130

On my edited tune it took 9 seconds to go from 88-120. (some guy in a BroDozer wanted some)

On the basemap it did the same thing but in 6 seconds, and 85-138 in 11. Granted taking the brodozer on a walk the road was going uphill so thats why it took longer.... but 3 seconds longer?

 

[winsanity324]

Just added an exhaust to my car and found it wasn't running very well in the current calibration. The datalog showed a lot of moments on throttle where the WG would go 0.00mm or even in the negatives.

-PRL intercooler
-ktuned/ultimate racing downpipe & front pipe
-J's racing race exhaust (non resonated)
-Takeda intake

Which calibration would you guys suggest running in the meantime until I can get re-tuned?


Thanks!

 

[AdamD19DFK8]

Update:

Started again from scratch with the 93 octane dp/ic/throttle map, increased the torque targets by 15% (a little high maybe) turbo max pressure ratio by 10% advanced the ignition tables 3% throughout, made sure fuel pump was limited to 88%. Doing some pulls 3k-4k pulls super hard, but the boost drops from 27psi to 22psi all the way to the top..... so it's like great torque, then regular base civic torque.

I didn't change the aircharge, maybe I need to go back and from 4k-7k increase that by a certain percentage so my boost doesn't shoot up then instantly drop.

Also when I tried this I don't think I drove long enough for the air/fuel and lambda to calibrate to the octane. Any tips? Hopefully increasing air charge works. I checked the EGT box in modifications under turbo.

 

[boosted180sx]

ign timing seems to be only be changed in 0.75 intervals so i usually don't use a % adjustment. I usually use the Ctrl U and Ctrl D (basically increasing or decreasing the selected areas by the number you set next to the + and - figure)

I only really mess with the aircharge in % and the rest i usually increase or decrease by certain amount each time.
I usually start off by messing with aircharge before anything. if you are limiting the output by not increasing the aircharge, you might not fully use the parameters you have changed.

also keep in mind, even if you have the fuel pump limit set to 88%, it can and will overshoot that and hit 100%. You will see the air charge get choppy because the car is trying to limit the fuel pump.

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