EX Audio Build: Completed!

10thDave

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There are more affordable option than Crutchfield. Kenwood is solid but I would
Choose the execellon line.
Wondering if you're still around this board as I sent you a PM and this is an old post...
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thatlilwhiteone

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I cleaned the paint off under the seat bolt and used the front seat bolt to the frame.
Do you get static with this ground? I grounded to the passenger seat bolt and I get static through my tweeters. I had it grounded at the seatbelt bolt on the passenger side and I dont remember hearing that. I just sanded the area better and I still hear it. I might put it back where I originally had it and see if it still makes that noise. I moved it to the other bolt because i couldn't get the plastic cover back on with out cutting it up.
 
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sinewave

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Do you get static with this ground? I grounded to the passenger seat bolt and I get static through my tweeters. I had it grounded at the seatbelt bolt on the passenger side and I dont remember hearing that. I just sanded the area better and I still hear it. I might put it back where I originally had it and see if it still makes that noise. I moved it to the other bolt because i couldn't get the plastic cover back on with out cutting it up.
When I chose that ground point I tested it with a DMM to check ground potential vs battery and there was very little variance. If you are getting static and you believe the ground might be the issue you could check this by running a 10agu wire to the battery to check if the issue resolves. I have found that static typically enters the signal path either from bad RCA, defective equipment (LOC or processors), or connection source. Hope you locate and isolate it.
 


Matthyahuw

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Still new to this car, thanks for the writeup!
do you know if there's custom boxes like your pre-made for this car yet?
 

Matthyahuw

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Thanks, I don't want a box in my trunk, and I'm not that good w/ 'glass (yet), I think I'll just go with an 8" free air RF Punch or something...
 

thatlilwhiteone

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When I chose that ground point I tested it with a DMM to check ground potential vs battery and there was very little variance. If you are getting static and you believe the ground might be the issue you could check this by running a 10agu wire to the battery to check if the issue resolves. I have found that static typically enters the signal path either from bad RCA, defective equipment (LOC or processors), or connection source. Hope you locate and isolate it.
I just connected the ground directly to the battery and It still has static. My amp has a built in dsp so I dont have any rcas. My connections go straight from the factory amp into my aftermarket amp and the output goes back into the speaker factory connections. Im going to speak with audio control when they call me back.

Playing around with the input gain and that seems to make it louder or quieter. Does that sound like an amp problem?

With the speaker inputs unplugged I can still hear the static. Its not through just the tweeters. The amp is outputting the static.
 
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sinewave

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I just connected the ground directly to the battery and It still has static. My amp has a built in dsp so I dont have any rcas. My connections go straight from the factory amp into my aftermarket amp and the output goes back into the speaker factory connections. Im going to speak with audio control when they call me back.

Playing around with the input gain and that seems to make it louder or quieter. Does that sound like an amp problem?

With the speaker inputs unplugged I can still hear the static. Its not through just the tweeters. The amp is outputting the static.
If you have removed audio signal coming into the amp and still have static, then it’s either the amp creating it or there could be something in line with the speaker output causing it. My money is on the amp. You could verify this by connecting a single speaker to the amp. Use a speaker not mounted in the car, maybe an old one with short speaker wires attached. If you still have static, it’s the amp.
 


thatlilwhiteone

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If you have removed audio signal coming into the amp and still have static, then it’s either the amp creating it or there could be something in line with the speaker output causing it. My money is on the amp. You could verify this by connecting a single speaker to the amp. Use a speaker not mounted in the car, maybe an old one with short speaker wires attached. If you still have static, it’s the amp.
okay ill try that tommorow. I talked to audiocontrol they told me to find the headunit ground and see if it still makes that noise attached to that. They also told me to contact the guy I bought it from and see if he will swap it out. If he tells me no I will just buy another one and force a return through ebay. The guy does have a 14 day return policy and its been less than a week, so he should swap it no problems.
 
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sinewave

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Thanks, I don't want a box in my trunk, and I'm not that good w/ 'glass (yet), I think I'll just go with an 8" free air RF Punch or something...
I get it. Unfortunately I got rid of my civic and sold the box. I’m not so keen on free air setups as they generally don’t produce enough bass for most people. A decent shop should be able to build you a glass/wood enclosure carpeted for $250-$350.if that is not in the budget then maybe look at a small preloaded subwoofer that can mount under ther rear deck to keep trunk space free.
 
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sinewave

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thatlilwhiteone

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So I was messaging the guy I bought the amp from he was really no help at this point Im positive it is an amp issue. He thinks its a problem with the gains or something. Im returning it to him and buying it for 130 more from crutchfield. but as I was messing with the settings for that guy I noticed the rear channel(sub) stopped receiving an input. I switched it to front port and was still showing no signal. So I removed all the plastic to the amp checked connections and still no signal. So then I connected the sub back to the factory amp it wasnt playing at all. The factory amp was a little hot so hopefully it will be fine in the morning. I was looking at that wiring guide and it said that the red wire was negative and the white was positive. I made red positive and white negative because red is always positive and that wiring guide had a few typos in it. IDK if I crossed the wires and it eventually burned the amp out or what but all the other speakers work or receive a signal just the sub is not working. The way I had it wired it was working just fine for about 5 days. Feeling real defeated at this point. I know its not a big deal I can just sum off the mids but I dont know why this shit just randomly happened a few hours ago. Wish I was never fucking around with it for that jackass I bought the amp from. I wouldnt even be having this problem right now. Before I put the aftermarket amp in I changed the sub and I cut the wires I used Red as Positive and White as negative and the sub worked and sounded just fine. So thats the way I did it when I put the aftermarket amp in. Red positive white negative.

My sub is fine it works when I sum it with the front channel.

lol so its my fault I turned the fade all the way to the front. I never noticed that turned the sub off. Ill sleep good tonight. hahaha but im still sending that damn amp back. its hot and humid af here i cant think straight thats my story and im sticking to it.
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