engine isnt making factory boost level

[kshawn]

I'll have to try this. damn I just logged my runs an hour ago xD

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[dc2turbo]

most new cars will not allow you to brake and gas at the same time. due to the toyota prius stuck acceleration problem a few years ago.

I know for sure the Civic 1.5t cvt will not do it since i have tried it a while ago


"
Honda-Acura

Honda announced two years ago that it was committed to applying “Brake Priority Logic” on 100 percent of all Honda and Acura passenger vehicles with automatic transmissions, with the first application coming to market in August of 2010. The vehicle was the all-new hybrid-only subcompact car, the 2011 Honda CR-Z. For the remainder of the 2011 model year, about half of Honda and Acura vehicles had the system. For 2012, the system, which Honda now calls Brake/Throttle Override, is on all Honda and Acura vehicles.

How the system works is explained to buyers in Honda and Acura vehicle owner’s manuals, but here’s a brief summary. The Brake/Throttle Override function applied to Honda and Acura models monitors the electronic throttle control (accelerator pedal) output signal. If that signal becomes static (meaning stuck) AND then the brake pedal is applied, after 0.1 seconds the throttle will be gradually reduced to near idle level over the course of about one-half second.

Ed Miller, Honda spokesman, tells The Car Connection that Honda chose to have a less abrupt throttle system than some other systems in the market. “The one-half second is quite noticeable to the driver, but we judge it to be less unsettling, so the driver can recognize the vehicle is slowing down due to reduction of engine power, but does not confuse the condition with a stalled engine,” said Miller.

Brake/Throttle Override is not applied to vehicles with manual transmissions because Honda believes that clutch is sufficient to allow the driver to decouple the engine power from the driven wheels."


So according to that i guess if you keep the gas pedal moving up and down then it would work

 

[silverrascal]

So I had my car at the dealership the other day for the VSA software update. I'm going to guess that as part of the process they disconnected the battery (after updating software, of course).

When I took the car back on the highway I saw the boost gauge light up all the bars. Prior to this the only other time was when I first got the car.

My guess is that the car learns your driving tendency and since I don't make a habit of hooning my ride all the time it adjusted the boost level too like others mentioned.

The acceleration was noticeably quicker.

 

[Kalani]

Anyone notice that their boost gauge doesnt go near the top anymore?? My will stop below 2 bars or sometimes 3 from the top. according to my datalogs , its only making 10-11psi. The weird thing is if i reset the ecu. the car will make 14-15psi with no problem until i drive it for like 10min.

can some of you guys pay attention to your gauage and see if it stays at the top with one bar unused or completely maxed out.

The car is definitely a lot faster whenever i reset the ecu

I've been having this problem for the last few months, and it's been driving me crazy! I'm new to cars, but have been studying, and learning every chance I get. At first I thought it was the hot, and humid weather we have here in the southeast. But this was more noticeable, and a different kind of drop in performance. Plus, temperatures have dropped significantly this past month, but the problem still remains.

Things I've tried:

• Checking air filter (clean)
• Trying different fuels, 87, 91, & 93 (seams to run best on 91) but didn't help much
• Checking for boost leaks using soapy water in a spray bottle (none found)
• Monitoring fuel trims: STFT= -2; LTFT= -3.8 Long term is showing the engine running a bit rich, but I believe it's within normal tolerance
• Resetting ECU, like dc2 mentioned it helps a little, but doesn't last
• Idle learn procedure - this helped the most, I thought I'd fixed it. Lasted about 3 or 4 days

I've been meaning to take it to the dealer, but it's not really a cut and dry thing. They'd have to drive it back to back with a new one to notice. Plus, my dealer can't even do a proper oil change, so I have a hard time trusting them. I wanted to see if I could fix it myself. It's looking like my options are running thin, so I might be taking it in soon.

Shout out to darklight, I appreciate all your advice here on the forums. I don't post much, but I've seen your posts, and you really know your stuff! And to dc2 for making this thread, because I was too prideful, and stubborn to ask for help. Hopefully we'll get this issue figured out, and fixed!

 

[dc2turbo]

i lied that 87 fixed everything. it just took longer for it to reduce the boost/throttle. on 93 it would take like 2-3miles but 87 took a tad longer

 

[Syntek]

Any update on this? I'm also noticing the same thing on 91 octane.

 

[dc2turbo]

Any update on this? I'm also noticing the same thing on 91 octane.

I just talked to Ktuner, He said he has a fix for that with his reflash. Should give him a shout

 

[Syntek]

I just talked to Ktuner, He said he has a fix for that with his reflash. Should give him a shout

I decided to switch over to 91 from 87 and did the ecu reset. I may buy flashpro or ktuner later on but for now, why is it doing this? I canyon run my car a lot and it's pretty annoying to have it do that when I'm WOT 80% of the time during said run. If flashing over the ECU is the fix for this i think thats a little silly

 

[JS2000]

The factory boost gauge is junk, more of a video game than useful info.

With the MAF sensor the ecu is capable of adjusting boost levels based on air flow changes, and other variables to keep power levels within a certain range. It could be intake temps, coolant temps, knock etc. This is very common with any modern ecu on boosted applications. My turbo Dodges would do that any time they detected extra air flow or changes in intake temps. They wanted to maintain consistent power levels through changing driving conditions. I remember boost levels once hit 29 psi in crazy hot ambient air temp conditions, and in extremely cold conditions it would go down to 10 psi or less, and most of the time it would run 14 psi. They had real boost gauges from the factory.

 

[17siturb0]

The factory tune is dialed in for 87 octane regular. Putting in higher octane can make it run funny, though you figured it would run even better right? Wrong, you gotta be tuned for that octane. The hatchback can take 91 cause Honda adjusted the tune slightly, hence the different power numbers. The center mounted exhaust helps a little but it's mostly the factory tune.

 

[dc2turbo]

the factory boost gauge seem accurate to me when comparing it to KTuners datalog but it only reads to 15 or 16psi

The factory boost gauge is junk, more of a video game than useful info.

With the MAF sensor the ecu is capable of adjusting boost levels based on air flow changes, and other variables to keep power levels within a certain range. It could be intake temps, coolant temps, knock etc. This is very common with any modern ecu on boosted applications. My turbo Dodges would do that any time they detected extra air flow or changes in intake temps. They wanted to maintain consistent power levels through changing driving conditions. I remember boost levels once hit 29 psi in crazy hot ambient air temp conditions, and in extremely cold conditions it would go down to 10 psi or less, and most of the time it would run 14 psi. They had real boost gauges from the factory.

 

[Syntek]

The factory tune is dialed in for 87 octane regular. Putting in higher octane can make it run funny, though you figured it would run even better right? Wrong, you gotta be tuned for that octane. The hatchback can take 91 cause Honda adjusted the tune slightly, hence the different power numbers. The center mounted exhaust helps a little but it's mostly the factory tune.

I definitely already know this, I mainly just did it to get my car use to higher octane before I do an ECU flash in the very near future. up until 14k miles I've been running 87. However, even on 87 octane, according to the boost meter, the last 2-3 bars wouldn't fill up on WOT.

@JS2000 - Makes sense. I wonder if the new K&N intake I have installed has anything to do with it now :S

 

[17siturb0]

I definitely already know this, I mainly just did it to get my car use to higher octane before I do an ECU flash in the very near future. up until 14k miles I've been running 87. However, even on 87 octane, according to the boost meter, the last 2-3 bars wouldn't fill up on WOT.

@JS2000 - Makes sense. I wonder if the new K&N intake I have installed has anything to do with it now :S

It probably is the intake, you gotta be tuned to run them properly. Specially K&N..

 

[Syntek]

It probably is the intake, you gotta be tuned to run them properly. Specially K&N..

I still have the factory intake here. I'm going to test this out tonight again.

 

[dc2turbo]

I still have the factory intake here. I'm going to test this out tonight again.

factory and injen did the same thing for me

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