Ecu harness fried after gauge install??

NoHonor937

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They put it back under warranty? Lol what a nice dealership you got. Mine would’ve laughed at the 3k profit they just made.
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eoevangelion

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They put it back under warranty? Lol what a nice dealership you got. Mine would’ve laughed at the 3k profit they just made.
What's even nicer is I only had to pay 400$ the first time to get the ecu changed. They didn't even make me pay the 2k$ because they felt it was unfair because the issue wasn't resolved
 
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eoevangelion

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Did you get the "Illuminating when blown" fuses ??? :dunno:

When you post the Install guide.
I think I can lay my hands on a copy of that harness's wiring diagram, and if so, can trace your added wiring back through "whatever" to the battery.

Back under warranty .. but "what warranty" -- read the small print.
The ORIGINAL parts were under the original factory vehicle warranty.
Any replacement parts (warranty or not) are normally under their own new warranty, which is a lot less than the Original part's Factory warranty.

A little detail that they may have "conveniently forgotten": to tell you.:doh:

The Dealer Installed it, so yes, there IS a warranty, but it may not bet covered under the original (longer) warranty .. You cannot win with the Dealer - they hold all the cards - that's why they are called DEALERS !! You certainly don't get "DEALS" from them !!
Always an ACE up their sleeves..
:dance:
Any luck finding anything?
 

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Any luck finding anything?
Only just caught up .. will check tomorrow.

So I assume you have not got the issue resolved yet ?

If not, when you attached that Fuse adapter, are you sure that all was connected OK there ?

Do you still get the Pedal Voltage low sensor Fault (or whatever it was) on the ODB2 diagnostic ?
The "Low Voltage" bit seems like a glaring clue ?
 

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Any luck finding anything?
OK, just read through the instructions. They seem straight forward enough.
Difficult to imagine anything going wrong, but obviously something did !!


One thing they do not tell you i the Instructions (or I missed it)

There is a wire that feeds the ECU , the Grey wire E54.
They tell you to CUT it, at a point furthest from the ECU.
Then splice their Yellow wire to the wire that goes to the ECU.​

They do not tell you what to do with the other end of the CUT wire, the wire that used to go to the ECU, but is now disconnected.
They should have told you to make sure the end is Insulated, and you do not want it touching Ground, or anything else.

Did it get shorted. Is is now shorting. Has the wire been put back to normal and the cut wire spliced to connect to the new ECU, and if so (as I expect the Tech will require - back to factory standard BEFORE installing a new ECU) does it still does not work. (Still all lights on, on the Instrument cluster ?)

If the Instrument pane does not receive information over the C-BUS information, it will sit there with all the lights on, ie in it's lamp test mode. I assume other items on the CAB-BUS are working, so it's not a locked up Bus.
Instrument panel could have got blown.

In my test rig, if I do not connect the Can-Bus to the Instrument Cluster, when I turn on the Ignition, all the lights come on and stay on .. which is what you are seeing ?

The Fuse adapter that went on the VB ACT Fuse, Is that now removed and all put back as factory ?

With the New ECU do you still get the Low Pedal Voltage , or can that be cleared and remain cleared.

(Not easy to diagnose if not working on the car - need more detailed information)

Actually, us owners should not have to know, understand, or be expected to fix any of this ourselves -- that's what the DEALER's Techs are "Trained" to do.

So please bear in mind, anything I say or suggest is coming from just another Civic Owner, chatting in a Forum .. I am not a Honda Dealer's Tech !!! (Thank God !!)
 
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eoevangelion

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Only just caught up .. will check tomorrow.

So I assume you have not got the issue resolved yet ?

If not, when you attached that Fuse adapter, are you sure that all was connected OK there ?

Do you still get the Pedal Voltage low sensor Fault (or whatever it was) on the ODB2 diagnostic ?
The "Low Voltage" bit seems like a glaring clue ?
Yes I still get the low pedal voltage p2122 code.
 
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eoevangelion

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OK, just read through the instructions. They seem straight forward enough.
Difficult to imagine anything going wrong, but obviously something did !!


One thing they do not tell you i the Instructions (or I missed it)

There is a wire that feeds the ECU , the Grey wire E54.
They tell you to CUT it, at a point furthest from the ECU.
Then splice their Yellow wire to the wire that goes to the ECU.​

They do not tell you what to do with the other end of the CUT wire, the wire that used to go to the ECU, but is now disconnected.
They should have told you to make sure the end is Insulated, and you do not want it touching Ground, or anything else.

Did it get shorted. Is is now shorting. Has the wire been put back to normal and the cut wire spliced to connect to the new ECU, and if so (as I expect the Tech will require - back to factory standard BEFORE installing a new ECU) does it still does not work. (Still all lights on, on the Instrument cluster ?)

If the Instrument pane does not receive information over the C-BUS information, it will sit there with all the lights on, ie in it's lamp test mode. I assume other items on the CAB-BUS are working, so it's not a locked up Bus.
Instrument panel could have got blown.

In my test rig, if I do not connect the Can-Bus to the Instrument Cluster, when I turn on the Ignition, all the lights come on and stay on .. which is what you are seeing ?

The Fuse adapter that went on the VB ACT Fuse, Is that now removed and all put back as factory ?

With the New ECU do you still get the Low Pedal Voltage , or can that be cleared and remain cleared.

(Not easy to diagnose if not working on the car - need more detailed information)

Actually, us owners should not have to know, understand, or be expected to fix any of this ourselves -- that's what the DEALER's Techs are "Trained" to do.

So please bear in mind, anything I say or suggest is coming from just another Civic Owner, chatting in a Forum .. I am not a Honda Dealer's Tech !!! (Thank God !!)
The wire is back to normal and has been since they installed the new ecu and new harness which completely replaced the spliced wire with a brand new unspliced one.

Not all the lights are on only a few. The battery and oil lights are off. I'll attach a picture.

The fuse adapter has since been removed and is back to factory.

The new ecu I clear the Low Pedal Voltage and it still remains.

Car is still in limp mode and the dealer said it needs another harness which would bring the total to 5k$. I had them send a parts number for what "needs" to be replaced. Parts number is 32200-TGG-L70.

Going to check all the fuses once more.
If you need any other info, photos, videos, etc feel free to ask. I appreciate everything

Honda Civic 10th gen Ecu harness fried after gauge install?? 15512562279136691134552989134503


Honda Civic 10th gen Ecu harness fried after gauge install?? 15512563083197867201438553504957


Honda Civic 10th gen Ecu harness fried after gauge install?? 15512563649774426041102420193186
 
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eoevangelion

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I think I found what's causing it. During the install I cut a hole in a rubber grommet to get through the fire wall. I think this brown wire was accidentally sliced in the process.

Going to see if I can find the other end and splice/solder it back together.

Honda Civic 10th gen Ecu harness fried after gauge install?? 1551259207428165830871935216783
 
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eoevangelion

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Update, found the other end of the wire. It's a tight fit in the engine bay but I'll see what I can do.
 
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eoevangelion

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No longer getting any codes from the obd2. The voltage in the pedal has been fixed and all is good and well. The car is out of limp mode and drives like a champ, I missed how it felt. We'll see if the electronic steering wheel, electronic parking brake, and the rest of the vsa goodies will dissapear after a bit of driving after the tune.

I also reinstalled the ethanol kit and all the aftermarket parts and it's still running strong !

Honda Civic 10th gen Ecu harness fried after gauge install?? IMG_20190227_025830_888
 


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eoevangelion

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TunedTwith the flashprofto thete85 basemap but it's been about an hour of driving yet all the vsa lights, electronic parking brake, and electronic power steering lights are still on :/
 

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No longer getting any codes from the obd2. The voltage in the pedal has been fixed and all is good and well. The car is out of limp mode and drives like a champ, I missed how it felt. We'll see if the electronic steering wheel, electronic parking brake, and the rest of the vsa goodies will dissapear after a bit of driving after the tune.

I also reinstalled the ethanol kit and all the aftermarket parts and it's still running strong !

IMG_20190227_025830_888.jpg
Good Find ... It had to be something that simple.
I bet your original ECU was fine, and so was the harness.
ALL your problems were cause by the cut wire.
(Typically the Brown Wires are +12v lines - which makes sense )

DO NOT leave that joint exposed like that. At a minimum wrap electrical tape around it.
Ideally, You should have soldered the wires back, with Heat Shrink over it.
Should be PERMANENT-- not a spade male/female connection.
You do NOT want that wire shorting to ground !!!

It's an amazing story and an example of just how Incompetent some Dealer Techs are.
Maybe after a few more Guesses, and a few more Harness changes they might have "lucked" into changing the harness with the broken wire, but if they had run, even the in-car diagnostics, they would have found what systems were not working, and should have been able to deduce, (and confirmed with a Multimeter) that these systems were not getting power !!

AMAZING...

Honda Civic 10th gen Ecu harness fried after gauge install?? wire


NOW what ?

You were obviously the cause of the fault, but why should you pay for their grossly incompetent diagnosis, and all the parts they incorrectly said needed replacing.

Personally, I think you should be walking out of the Dealership, without having to pay anything, and with a sincere apology from the Dealer's Service manager for such an Incompetent diagnosis, and wasting so much of your time.

This would be a typical DATELINE story ... exposing Dealer Tech's Incompetence, and effectively screwing car owners out of $1000's of Dollars, with incorrect diagnosis, and fitting parts that the owner did not need.

Let us know how it turned out with the Dealer, and unless they make good on this whole mess, I would be looking for a better Dealer for any future service work.
 

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TunedTwith the flashprofto thete85 basemap but it's been about an hour of driving yet all the vsa lights, electronic parking brake, and electronic power steering lights are still on :/

You may have to determine what the function of that wire actually was, and then maybe it will make more sense as to what really happened, and why things a are not back to normal.
It might be that there are some error codes that need to be manually reset ?
 
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eoevangelion

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You may have to determine what the function of that wire actually was, and then maybe it will make more sense as to what really happened, and why things a are not back to normal.
It might be that there are some error codes that need to be manually reset ?
Possibly, that's what I'm thinking. Any idea of how to reset those codes? I already tried unplugging the battery for a good 20-30 minutes
 

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Possibly, that's what I'm thinking. Any idea of how to reset those codes? I already tried unplugging the battery for a good 20-30 minutes
No .. I have not got into the OBD2 port stuff yet, but there are plenty here who have.
I am sure someone can point you in the right direction.
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